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Posted

I used to see between 1.4-1.8 warm idle at 675-700 rpm

I'll let you know how it reads at the front location later

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Posted

Well at least it seems in the ball park :-) I just wanted to be able to monitor it so I could switch it off before it eats itself if it ever goes wrong.

No wonder it's a bugger to seal at 5.5bar! At least it seems all good still after a little drive

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Posted

Well at least it seems in the ball park :-) I just wanted to be able to monitor it so I could switch it off before it eats itself if it ever goes wrong.

No wonder it's a bugger to seal at 5.5bar! At least it seems all good still after a little drive

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Mine runs at 6.1 bar [emoji23] done mine for same reason. I'm on 167k miles and modified now. I monitor temp and pressure like a hawk. Any dips or peaks are quickly seen.
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Posted

I'm only on 62k! But she's standard bar a cat back, silicone y pipe and air filter. At least you give me faith in the longevity of the scooby flat 4, have seen some monster miles on some which is a good sign!

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Posted

1.8 bar @700 rpm 90°c idle obviously getting a better reading now it's installed in the proper location,

Posted

Not convinced I got the cone fitting piece oil tight still, went for a drive, noticed a tiny dribble, wiped it away and left it running for another 10 mins and still dry- could that be oil on the joint from before or do I still have an issue?

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Posted

Just keep an eye on it mate, is it up as far as it will go on the thread ? I take it it's ptfe'd, I notices after I forgot to tighten the adaptor it just had a slight residue on which when hot dribbled down and looked like a fresh leak but isn't

Posted

The main problem I had as stants knows is just the amount of times I was told do not over tighten it. So I was leaving it loose and kept pinching it until it stopped leaking. [emoji2]

Posted

Lol to be honest I murdered the fittings on 1st install up and had no leaks at all in 2 years, this time round I slackened off and forgot to re tighten

Posted

Cheers guys I'll see how it goes. The fitting kit says it should be self sealing on the cone fittings to do them finger tight then 1/4 turn definitely didn't work for me like that!

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Posted

Yeah that's the -do not over tighten- bit. Best bet is just keep nipping it until it seals. Pita putting everything back on/off

Posted

Fook it cocoon in tape get a 14mm & 12mm and do up till solid, mine was so tight I gave up and bought a new adaptor

  • Like 1
Posted

It's the t piece end that was leaking. I seem to have solved that only to find a tiny welling of oil at the previously dry other end joints. I might just take it into a friggin garage at this rate

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Posted

It's the t piece end that was leaking. I seem to have solved that only to find a tiny welling of oil at the previously dry other end joints. I might just take it into a friggin garage at this rate

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Keep at it. I had my intercooler off in a car park at 6:15am the morning of japshow tightening mine up.

You will get it sealed and save a chunk of cash.

Posted

It means taking the alt etc all out again, not hard in itself but a pain to keep taking out to tweak every time!

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Posted

I'll have to give it a go next time I have time- next day off not til next thurs now but might be able to do it one evening wifey and child permitting

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Posted

I always have tools in the boot, I'm a maintenance manager ;-) that's how I fitted my gauge pod and gauges at work :-D

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Posted

I know I keep banging on about ptfe, seriously wrap every thread you have and it will be ok

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Posted

I done that at first! I thought 4-5wraps would be enough-I'll have to go all out!

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Posted

I did it on thread to block, thread to flexi, flexi to tee and both senders, not checked it today but seems ok

Posted

Minor update:

Still not touched it, been keeping an eye on it. Doesn't seem to be any oil spreading etc just a very tiny bit at the top of the fitting which might be where it ran down when I was sorting the other leak. I can't get to the fitting to wipe it away now it's all back together. Taking it on a 40 mile round trip tomorrow will check after that as if it's leaking the oil should be hot and thin enough to be more obvious if there really is something leaking.

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