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Posted

Right so i taken the car to kiwk fit for all 4 wheels to be balanced as i was told this was probably causing the problem , all 4 wheels did need re-balanced but this has not solved the problem at all the wheel still rattle/vibrates really bad once i reach 60 mph 

 

It used to do it every now and again on and off but now whenever i reach 60 or higher the wheel will just not stop rattling/vibrating in my hands am not talking a small vibration i mean you can see the wheel moving and my hands shaking its close to undrivable

 

It moves side to side ever so slightly but no major play its just the annoying fact of a rattling wheel when i have to drive for 6 hours on monday.

 

If anyone has any ideas on what this could be please help! 

 

Details:

Classic JDM Impreza import 1994 

All wheels balanced as of today 

Rear suspension arm does need swapped but not sure thats what is causing the problem here

 

Posted

no i didn't mate they were charging quite a high price and i didn't think that would be the problem , i guess ill have to look into it now I've done balancing though 

 

with the rear suspension arm needing swapped i can't really get it done 

Posted

My mate had a lot of issues with his steering wheel vibrating... he was in constantly getting the peugeot garage to check it and balance the wheels, (car was under warranty) turned out one of the alloys was actually damaged (buckled slightly)... maybe worth getting someone to have a good look at each alloy

Posted

When doing Old school road tests for balancing and tracking issues normally. ...

Wheel wobble at 60 which goes away at 70 (you can drive through it ) meant balancing fault .

Wheel wobble at 60 that didn't go away when you increase speed meant tracking or wheel alignment.

The rear sway arm could cause the rear wheels to be out of alignment (so get it sorted as soon as you can afford it ) but it would have to be fairly bad to cause the steering wheel to wobble

Posted

yeah it doesn't go away it continues until i come to a complete stop 

 

If the rear arm is causing it which we are only doubtful about then it could be a lot of money and still not fix it 

Posted

Balls wrote a massive reply but deleted it.

I'd go for a buckled wheel too, swap all four front to rear and go for a drive see if it's still there. If not it's the wheel not being true, I had the same problem but only noticed the buckled wheel when I rotated it

  • Like 1
Posted

i don't think thats the case either mate i have new tyers new alloys second hand BC coilovers and new track rod ends 

 

with all this i can't see the problem :S

Posted

Did you get a wheel alignment done after fitting the coilovers and have you checked there's nothing loose/worn .

Have you checked the front brakes haven't seized , look for uneven wear on the discs or 1 wheel getting hotter than the rest.

Failing that take it for a pre mot check normally about £40 they should be able to find the fault for you

Posted

yeah i done alinement but i couldn't do the rear because of the rear arm does it make such a difference to the steering if the rear is out ?

 

Ill double check the brakes again and if not take into kwik fit again , cheers mate

Posted

Quick fit are rubbish, one of them near me has a hunter but they have no idea how to use it, they send people down to this local independent, he only has a super Tracker alignment machine but he was British stock car champion for a few years and what he doesn't know isn't worth knowing. Do you have a good local company that has exeprience with setting up cars for fast road or track use near you?

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