scoobywrx19 Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Hello fellow scooby owners right bare with me this is long winded and head hurting Ok well ive rebuilt a subaru impreza 1995 wrx from ground up complete Shell strip i never had a engine so i bought another subaru 1995 wrx that had been stood for years with a engine problem it wouldnt run unless map is unplugged so i thought not to worry ill be stripping engine anyways So i removed engine replaced headgaskets,and different heads i relapped all valves etc Different inlet manifold with Throttle position sensor Idle valve Injectors Loom Maf Coolant temp 02 sensor Fuel filter Adjustable fuel reg set to 3 bar Ecu Vac pipes Map sensor Boost sensor Converted back to single coils Now ive replaced all these 3 times with ones off my friends and still same Ive measured voltages on throttle sensor and are within tolerences I can get it to run for 2 seconds lumpy and dies if i disconect throttle sensor and maf it starts no problem and ticks over sweet just cant rev obviously if i reconect while running it dies Connected black connectors no codes stored Much appriciated reading this far Im really hoping someone can give me a pointer something im missing Thanks so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 When you say different inlet manifold, was it the same as the original (phase 1 ) ? Or was it the later phase 1.5 with the single coilpack in the centre of the inlet manifold ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobywrx19 Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 Thanks for replying Sorry i should of made it clearer i replaced it with another standard v2 one so both same Coils are in the side previous owner did newage conversion i thought that could be problem so converted back but still same If i disconnect maf and throttle sensor it starts and idles spot on no misfires just wont rev up and loads of unburnt fuel im guessin because ecu in limp mode I do ecu reset everytime i disconnect sensors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Has it definitely got a jdm ecu in it ? Changing the tps or icv can cause issues if the manual adjustment is in a different position . As the ecu thinks it's in a different position . Have you attached the engine loom earth to the inlet manifold? Did you reinstall the ignition igniter behind the boost solinoid bracket. As this is by passed when doing a newage coil pack conversion? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobywrx19 Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 Def ecu for my car i run a z4 ive swapped it with a 2c i think at min its what came with the spare car i bought I thought same thing adjusting the tps ive used multimeter and is set to 4.8 closed and 0.9 open The map sensor and igniter etc ive replaced the whole piece with what came with my Shell so different to my spare car one Thinking about the earth i think ive bolted to manifold and not the starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 It definitely sounds like a electrical issue to me , seeing as it idles ok with the maf and tps unplugged. Does seem strange that your not getting any codes up though . When you reset the ecu (I think) the boost solinoid and relays "click" ect . Does it do that ? , Ie is the reset /eml light definitely working ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobywrx19 Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 Def electrical not mechanical which is half good since replaced heads etc Yeh fans kick in and solenoids click If i move tps or disconect maf the codes come up when count the flashes so i know check engine light does register Ill check on that earth lead tomorrow Do appriciate your time Im guessing i need to find a wiring diagram there must be something linking the two to put it into default setting and make it run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 No problem ,bud . Unfortunately sparks ain't really my thing . there's a link to free pdf files on 1 of the first few pages of my sticky build thread on here which will have the diagrams on . The loom earth should bolt onto the inlet manifold with a earthing "eye" just behind the start of the fuel hard lines (above cylinder 4 ) Keep us posted and best of luck If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobywrx19 Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 Quick update i moved earth to starter and fitted new plugs gapped to 0.7 and bingo starts to a degree with everything connected and revs up just something not 100% like a misfire so going to swap coils tomorrow thanks for replying savage bulldogs only you out of a 109 people who viewed this post and on scoobynet replied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Id have replied if I coulda helped, but didn't have a scooby doo mate 😕 Plus I only just read the thread lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Your welcome mate , you nearly always get a reply on here . We like to help if possible  Do you know if your injectors are the right ones for the ecu (phase 1 grey 380's or yellow 440's ) did you use new "o" rings when you fitted them ? Do you know if the fpr is reading true ? as a slight change in pressure can make a big difference to the fueling . Thought I'd add I once connected the coil packs on cylinder 1 &3 the wrong way round [emoji55] it ran lumpy on 2 cylinders and even drove up to 3k . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobywrx19 Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 Haha piggy sniffer 'scooby doo' amused me Fpr is brand new sytec one but i can test it to make sure does anyone know what pressure should be roughly The injectors was already in the manifold 380 standard ones i am wondering which way the connectors go ones grey and ones white i think white goes to front engine Same with coils i believe white connector is front coils the wire dosnt seem to stretch to get them wrong way round cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Im with Piggy - read - was here in spiritual support but can offer nothing more than positive vibes for this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobywrx19 Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 Positive vibes better than no vibes ☺ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven252 Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Iirc the tps should read 0.5-0.8v closed and 4.7-4.9v open. if it is the wrong way itll be trying to run open and closed loop the wrong way around. switch the TPS positive and negative the oposite way around to get the sensor to read correctly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Here's a couple of pics with fuel pressure and a few multi meter readings that might be worth checking [emoji6] . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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