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Secondary air pump fault

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Annoyingly cel light came on yesterday with codes P1410 and P2432.

From what I can find the air pump is more an emissions thing. As mine is already decat I am planning on removing the system rather than paying the 1000 for replacement pump and valves. I have ordered the blanking plates but does anyone have a how to guide?


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Yeah i understand it will need a map. I have seen people have been able to use a vagcom cable to delete the codes from map so going to give that a try, For sake of 10er.

I think the valves are stuck open can smell a lot of fumes. Which according to forums is the worse case as the exhaust gas comes up and can melt pipes.Have pulled the fuse to avoid destroying the pump.

1 side is suppose to be easy to get to. The other more of a pain.

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When mine got stuck up I sprayed a ton of wd40 down the rubber y tube (that connects to blower) after removing the blower, left it overnight, started in morning, loads of smoke(that stopped when wd40 all burned off) but no more stuck valve, not sure if it was the thing to do, but I did and it worked for me

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managed to delete the codes using a £8.99 vagcom cable

had a slight scare as when I had finished flashing and tried to start the car it was like the Battery was dead and the alarm started going off, no power to unlock door by fob and windows very very slow to open.

 Jump started it, turned it straight off and started up straight away. I dont know if the ecu thought it was a flat Battery connected or what but everything seems to be fine now

now need to find the time to remove the pump


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I bought the http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152158688196?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT from eBay for the cable.

Dont install the drivers or software that comes with the cable, use the latest from http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm

I used the exe installer on that page

Once installed go to device manager,find the cable under com ports and change the BAUD rate from 9600 to 4800


I then installed ecuflash 129a.

i tried the latest version but would not work, apparently after 129 it checks the brand of cable.

Connect the green test mode connectors under the dash

Plug in the cable, turn the ignition to ON, EML will be flashing and fan start and stop

open ecuflash

click read from ecu, a menu pops up. choose model of car

fan stops

reads the ecu

make a back up

I then went and found the codes, clicked on value and pressed + to change to disabled.

made a second backup with new values

test wrote, was all ok

then wrote to ecu

click ok, close ecuflash

turn off ignition, unplug test connectors, turn back on wait for 20 seconds before firing up. done


I should say I did this 2 times in a row as I missed 2 codes off the first time (followed a list of codes to delete for problem but it had 2 missing), after flashing the first time there was no problems with Battery. I then re did this and deleted the extra 2 codes. If i had got them all the first time I probably would not of had any Battery problems.


this was done on a 2006 (56) Wrx type UK

it says it wont work on cars with canbus.








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  • 1 month later...

Got the valves and pump out yesterday. And put the blanking plates on. All running nice and no more fumes smell. Was a bit a chew getting to the second valve hidden bolt and then the bottom bolt from pipe. Took 2 days in the end as had to order more tools for the job

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Ah man, that hidden bolt is a !Removed! for sure, did mine a few weeks ago, was touch and go as it was the tightest bolt on the whole car to crack off lol, but I really didn't wanna have to take the inlet manifold off, at the mo ive left the pipe on that goes behind the uppipe and just blanked it where the solenoid used to bolt up, will remove it at a later date when I do a clutch or exhaust or turbo methinks 

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Yeah i left the pipe also, Looked far to much hassle lol. The hidden bolt was much easier with a 1/4" knuckle but i did strip 2 sockets trying to undo it, Cheap crap. i found the valve took a lot of prying and swearing to pry it up and I cut the baro sensor off the r/h valve although i read conflicting threads if it was needed on a 06 but did it anyway. And ziptied it where the air pump used to be. 

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Awful design, I think my spraying wd40 down there just destroyed the rubber on the actual solenoid valve as when I took it apart it was all disintegrated 😕 I also cut the baro sensor out and cable tied it safely, and yeah, swearing and levering to get the solenoid out from under the manifold lol

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  • 3 weeks later...

Best advice is remove the whole egr system and air pump it's just a stupid design . Mine is in a box in my garage . Also I'm unsure if this has already been mentioned but there is a major recall coming in on air pump because they catch fire [emoji15]

Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

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