Oil & Oil change

[XVGUS]

Hey guys

Ive always changed my oil every 6k because I like to keep it fairly fresh,Now my question is there any service lights or oil lights come on and need reset after I drop my oil?

Also what grade of oil should I use on my xv diesel 2014?

 

Thanks

Gus

[XVGUS]

Anyone?

 

[marcothio]

Hi,

dont know about the reset, but 5W30 is OK for a diesel XV. There was a whole discussion on the XV MPG thread about the oil. Still awkward that the manual actually recommends 0W

[Johnny B]

I am not a qualified mechanic but I was informed that an engine reset was necessary after oil change.It has something to with ash burnt and age of oil. Can't provide the full mechanical and technical reason.

 

[Dogconker]

I do think there is something that needs to be reset whenyou carry out an oil change, probably worth calling a dealer.

just make sure whatever oil you use doesn't invalidate your warranty or anything silly. 

I think mine is on 0/30 

[Swayze88]

On 02/08/2017 at 9:21 PM, XVGUS said:

Hey guys

Ive always changed my oil every 6k because I like to keep it fairly fresh,Now my question is there any service lights or oil lights come on and need reset after I drop my oil?

Also what grade of oil should I use on my xv diesel 2014?

 

Thanks

Gus

Hi XVGUS, I have a sneaking suspicion that there is a reset that you can do through the steering wheel controls, I'm 99% Sure I found the info online somewhere or even the XV Handbook...
Have a click through the settings/service with the steering wheel controls and look for anything to do with oil change, hopefully it will be obvious. Johnny B is right its something to do with pollutants in the oil. the car must do some wizardry dependant on the age/level of pollutants.

Also yes, I had a bit of a go at the suppliers of my XV as they had used 5W-30 in the service prior to me buying the car, I contacted Subaru UK, who said that 5W-30 is perfectly fine.

Have fun doing the oil, its so lovely having a filter on top of an engine. but be warned the oil will flood out the bottom once that sump plug is out!

[XVGUS]

Ok lads thanks,I'll have to seriously look into this now as I'm nearing my 5k on the oil lol......

yes good idea with the oil filter location😏

[Swayze88]

 

Right XVGus and all other home oil changers, I'm pretty sure this is how I did it.

It's a little bit of a pain to do, but worth a shot.

https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/2011/01/27/engine-oil-change-dpf-models/

Have fun.

 

[XVGUS]

Great stuff pal,think I'll be giving this a go very soon & I'll keep you all posted how I get on.......

thanks again👍

[Aberdeen Chris]

HI XVGUS,

I take 2 empty 5l oil containers to my subaru dealer and they fill with the correct 'Havoline' engine oil they specify for the diesal.

It works out cheaper than buying on eBay this way and they supply a filter also.

By keeping the receipt I can prove I have used the correct subaru' s own oil so this covers any potential issues with warranty, and they are happy for me to do this.

When you have changed the oil the procedure for my car which is 2016 diesal is on page 11-17 of the manual will re-set the on-board computers oil replacement data.

Because if the high pressures in a diesal some is absorbed over time into the oil diluting it!

The procedure for my car after replacing oil is:-

1. Depress brake pedal

2. Start engine, and keep it in idling. 

3. Release the clutch pedal.

4. With depressing the brake pedal, perform the following:

  (1) press the rear window defogger

  (2) turn the headlight to the =00= position

  (3) press the rear defogger position to off

 (4) turn the headlight position to "O" position

  (5) repeat steps 1) through 4) once more, and go to next step

  (6) release the brake pedal.

Note

Each step (1) through (6) must be operated within 4 seconds.

5. The preheating indicator light will blink approximately 5 seconds when the data was reset successfully.

If it doesn't work then turn the engine off for 15 sec and repeat the above steps again.

I have done this when I change the oil and filter and it worked no problems. Although I suppose if you are doing an interim oil change between dealer ones then it probably isn't really needed.

But I also believe it's worth doing an oil change every 5k or 6 months as it keeos the engine cleaner internally and reduces wear long-term. Plus when you consider how much money goes into the fuel tank, it's not a great cost. 

I now average 45mpg 50% town and 50% at 50mph on country road, and I don't mince about 😉

 

[Swayze88]

Changed my oil last night, other than almost painting the entire driveway black (The xv seems to dump about 5 litres in the first second then the last litre over about 10 mins) I cannot get the low oil level to go away. I put about 5.6l of oil in ours is 5.9 from empty, checked the level and it was fine. ( Following the heat up, turn off, 5 mins wait period) drove about ten miles. Stopped, waited 5 mins, checked again. Oil level was fine. Drove another 25 miles, same thing. Every time the low light level was on. Very strange. I think these oil sensors must be a little very sensitive. Hopefully maybe just a small air lock or something. Has anyone else experienced this? Strangest thing is the car felt 100% better after oil and filter, even though it had only been done 6k ago.

[Dogconker]

12 minutes ago, Swayze88 said:

Changed my oil last night, other than almost painting the entire driveway black (The xv seems to dump about 5 litres in the first second then the last litre over about 10 mins) I cannot get the low oil level to go away. I put about 5.6l of oil in ours is 5.9 from empty, checked the level and it was fine. ( Following the heat up, turn off, 5 mins wait period) drove about ten miles. Stopped, waited 5 mins, checked again. Oil level was fine. Drove another 25 miles, same thing. Every time the low light level was on. Very strange. I think these oil sensors must be a little very sensitive. Hopefully maybe just a small air lock or something. Has anyone else experienced this? Strangest thing is the car felt 100% better after oil and filter, even though it had only been done 6k ago.

Now my wife had something like this with her last car where it threw up erroneous errors about low oil, it uses the same symbol for over pressure apparently so just check it’s not slightly over full.

we a problem with it and we’re advised to pop a little more oil in, the light didn’t go away, eventually we got Subaru assist out and the mechanic told us that there was too much oil on there, he basically sucked some out and reset the error and it was fine from them on

[Aberdeen Chris]

Maybe you could follow the manual reset oil for computer as at the end if this. It may work ? and should be done every time oil is changed on a diesal  🐴

I take 2 empty 5l oil containers to my subaru dealer and they fill with the correct 'Havoline' engine oil they specify for the diesal.

It works out cheaper than buying on eBay this way and they supply a filter also.

By keeping the receipt I can prove I have used the correct subaru' s own oil so this covers any potential issues with warranty, and they are happy for me to do this.

When you have changed the oil the procedure for my car which is 2016 diesal is on page 11-17 of the manual will re-set the on-board computers oil replacement data.

Because if the high pressures in a diesal some is absorbed over time into the oil diluting it!

The procedure for my car after replacing oil is:-

1. Depress brake pedal

2. Start engine, and keep it in idling. 

3. Release the clutch pedal.

4. With depressing the brake pedal, perform the following:

  (1) press the rear window defogger

  (2) turn the headlight to the =00= position

  (3) press the rear defogger position to off

 (4) turn the headlight position to "O" position

  (5) repeat steps 1) through 4) once more, and go to next step

  (6) release the brake pedal.

Note

Each step (1) through (6) must be operated within 4 seconds.

5. The preheating indicator light will blink approximately 5 seconds when the data was reset successfully.

If it doesn't work then turn the engine off for 15 sec and repeat the above steps again.

I have done this when I change the oil and filter and it worked no problems. Although I suppose if you are doing an interim oil change between dealer ones then it probably isn't really needed.

But I also believe it's worth doing an oil change every 5k or 6 months as it keeos the engine cleaner internally and reduces wear long-term. Plus when you consider how much money goes into the fuel tank, it's not a great cost. 

I now average 45mpg 50% town and 50% at 50mph on country road, and I don't mince about 😉

 

[Dogconker]

1 hour ago, Aberdeen Chris said:

Maybe you could follow the manual reset oil for computer as at the end if this. It may work ? and should be done every time oil is changed on a diesal  🐴

I take 2 empty 5l oil containers to my subaru dealer and they fill with the correct 'Havoline' engine oil they specify for the diesal.

It works out cheaper than buying on eBay this way and they supply a filter also.

By keeping the receipt I can prove I have used the correct subaru' s own oil so this covers any potential issues with warranty, and they are happy for me to do this.

When you have changed the oil the procedure for my car which is 2016 diesal is on page 11-17 of the manual will re-set the on-board computers oil replacement data.

Because if the high pressures in a diesal some is absorbed over time into the oil diluting it!

The procedure for my car after replacing oil is:-

1. Depress brake pedal

2. Start engine, and keep it in idling. 

3. Release the clutch pedal.

4. With depressing the brake pedal, perform the following:

  (1) press the rear window defogger

  (2) turn the headlight to the =00= position

  (3) press the rear defogger position to off

 (4) turn the headlight position to "O" position

  (5) repeat steps 1) through 4) once more, and go to next step

  (6) release the brake pedal.

Note

Each step (1) through (6) must be operated within 4 seconds.

5. The preheating indicator light will blink approximately 5 seconds when the data was reset successfully.

If it doesn't work then turn the engine off for 15 sec and repeat the above steps again.

I have done this when I change the oil and filter and it worked no problems. Although I suppose if you are doing an interim oil change between dealer ones then it probably isn't really needed.

But I also believe it's worth doing an oil change every 5k or 6 months as it keeos the engine cleaner internally and reduces wear long-term. Plus when you consider how much money goes into the fuel tank, it's not a great cost. 

I now average 45mpg 50% town and 50% at 50mph on country road, and I don't mince about 😉

 

Started replacing my oil every 6 months now. But I’m lazy so I get the garage to do it, they only charge me £80 and that includes the oil and filter do hardly worth getting my hands dirty. 

I knew there was some reset you could do but couldn’t remember what it was

[Swayze88]

On 12/1/2017 at 11:04 AM, Dogconker said:

Started replacing my oil every 6 months now. But I’m lazy so I get the garage to do it, they only charge me £80 and that includes the oil and filter do hardly worth getting my hands dirty. 

I knew there was some reset you could do but couldn’t remember what it was

£80 for the job! AF Noble fleeced me £85 for Oil and Filter and I had to do the job myself. 

Anyway the light cleared after another commute and a nights rest, so all is good now. Had followed the brake light defog rub your tummy, pat your head job and got the Flashing light to say it had worked, but who knows, there definitely seems to be a few gremlins in the electrics, I occasional get a check stability control system warning if I start the car and go to full lock immediately. 

[Aberdeen Chris]

Tummy rub's the important bit to remember!

Stability control does seem quite sensitive, especially on the back roads on the snow and when passing over a bump the light flashes on mine too.

If you go to full lock when stationary then one wheel may move backwards slightly giving an unbalanced reading to your car's brain.

Have you tried connecting an OBD2 scanner to check for any codes ?

Computers are great when they work, when they don't I usually get a phonecall lol

 

[Dogconker]

On 11/12/2017 at 12:56 PM, Swayze88 said:

£80 for the job! AF Noble fleeced me £85 for Oil and Filter and I had to do the job myself. 

Anyway the light cleared after another commute and a nights rest, so all is good now. Had followed the brake light defog rub your tummy, pat your head job and got the Flashing light to say it had worked, but who knows, there definitely seems to be a few gremlins in the electrics, I occasional get a check stability control system warning if I start the car and go to full lock immediately. 

Yep and that was our nearest Subaru main dealer, not worth me getting my hands dirty.

[Swayze88]

Changed the oil and filter today on the new orange XV as I have a slight lack of trust when it comes to salesroom services. As the car hasn't got a full history I'm going to do a double oil change with a hundred or so miles in-between. I was amazed when I pulled off the old non subaru filter to see how small it was. (I've got a non dented filter fresh from the Subaru parts department ready to go on after a few miles). 

[Aberdeen Chris]

There's quite a difference between the two!

The Mann filter looks like it may have come from Dingbro, that's where garages here get all their parts from.

Like the grill btw

[Mr B]

for jap cars either blueprint or oem , stay away from euro parts ...

[Aberdeen Chris]

I agree.

I usually get from eBay or the main dealer who let's me take empty oil containers and fills them with Havoline oil cheaper than I can buy it elsewhere. Plus I get a receipt to prove I used the correct oil for warranty purposes.

[Swayze88]

12 hours ago, Aberdeen Chris said:

There's quite a difference between the two!

The Mann filter looks like it may have come from Dingbro, that's where garages here get all their parts from.

Like the grill btw

 

12 hours ago, Mr B said:

for jap cars either blueprint or oem , stay away from euro parts ...

Cheers Chris, I think it looks much better with the black grill. Yeah I think the Mann filters are ECP or Dingbro, but I'll definitely be trying to stick with OEM after seeing the size difference, as Mr B says OEM or Blueprint I think.

Fresh Filter and sump washer cost me £23.81 from the parts department, so I'll fire that on in a few days with some new oil and take the dented one out, then she should be like new. 

[XVGUS]

Right lads,its been a while since I was last on here but the link for putting the oil light after oil change is spot on.....thanks. I was also told buy a Subaru mechanic to use 5w30 oil c3 grade as this is compatable with the dpf and doesn't mess with the warranty.

I work for dingbro and dont not use mann on my Subaru,i use the ADL Blueprint (size wise exactly the same as Subaru filter) a much better filter all round.

My Last oil change was less than £30 but I get everything for my own car at cost.......Tomorrow however she's booked into AF Noble for a service (to keep up warranty) so I shall expect a nice wee bill,even though ive just replaced front and rear pads and had the H/brake adjusted etc lol.

So anyone looking to change there own oil,If you have a low milage car 0w30 would be fine but a car with say 30k plus then 5w30 is recommended and follow the links regarding resetting the the oil dilution.

[Swayze88]

20 hours ago, XVGUS said:

Right lads,its been a while since I was last on here but the link for putting the oil light after oil change is spot on.....thanks. I was also told buy a Subaru mechanic to use 5w30 oil c3 grade as this is compatable with the dpf and doesn't mess with the warranty.

I work for dingbro and dont not use mann on my Subaru,i use the ADL Blueprint (size wise exactly the same as Subaru filter) a much better filter all round.

My Last oil change was less than £30 but I get everything for my own car at cost.......Tomorrow however she's booked into AF Noble for a service (to keep up warranty) so I shall expect a nice wee bill,even though ive just replaced front and rear pads and had the H/brake adjusted etc lol.

So anyone looking to change there own oil,If you have a low milage car 0w30 would be fine but a car with say 30k plus then 5w30 is recommended and follow the links regarding resetting the the oil dilution.

Good luck with AF Noble, make sure and check they have tightened everything back up!   Unfortunately us East coasters don't have much other choice to keep the service book happy.

[XVGUS]

Cheers pal,I’ve no checked anything yet but they certainly know how to loosen yer wallet😂