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Angersome scooby water


Andy...
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Hey all, im new to the site so appologies if there is a similar post....

I have a 2011 subaru wrx sti, im having problems with water system. I was driving the car and the water pressure pushed through and filled the water reservoir. I thought maybe a dodge thermostat as the heater in the car was blowing cold air, i have drained the coolant, cleaned it, changed the thermostat, refilled it and burpped it.....for hours😂😂😂 so thinking all air bubbles out drove the car the next day and within 10-15 mins the temp gauge shot up but to the first top mark air still cold. So today (4th Feb) i got timeand re burped it using a water botter/filler in the expansion tank bringing it up to heat and blimping the throttle up to 3k rpm again did this for some time bottom pipe became warm again all bubbling stopped thought ok turned it off for 5 mins then repeated to make sure no bubbles then took it a drive again and 10 mins in temp gauge flies up and water fills up reservoir.......im lost is it water pump......cylinder head gasket.....i hope not..... if you believe it is answer with flamingo leg makes it feel less expensive

Any ideas on how to check or suggestions are very much welcome

And sorry for the book ive just written

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sounds like headgasket 😞 as soon as you put any boost on water gets blown through, so while off boost wont be anythign happening, assuming im reading hte symptoms correctly.

 

have a sniff test done and see what the results are

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If you can fit it yourself, the water pump has got to be worth a shot. I did have very similar symptoms a few years ago. 

Was really starting to believe it was the head gasket but checked the pump to find it in 2 pieces, the fanblade part (sure there’s a technical term 😂) had a press fitting which had removed itself from the spindle going through the pump. 

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14 minutes ago, Andy... said:

Yeah i thought about water pump also but tidgy hit the nail on the head soon as i put boost it does it 😭😭😭gutted whats the going rate of HG repair these days lol

You said you changed the thermostat. Did you put in a genuine Subaru stat or generic?

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I’d be half tempted to say you might still have air in the system. 

Stop me if I’m teaching you to suck eggs but they can be a real pain to bleed! 

Make sure you get the front end higher than the rear, park on a hill or jack the front end up, then try bleeding it some more. 

 Again, the water pump is worth checking too. I just think it’s worth just ruling out absolutely  everything else before headgasket failure.

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7 hours ago, WideSam said:

I’d be half tempted to say you might still have air in the system. 

Stop me if I’m teaching you to suck eggs but they can be a real pain to bleed! 

Make sure you get the front end higher than the rear, park on a hill or jack the front end up, then try bleeding it some more. 

 Again, the water pump is worth checking too. I just think it’s worth just ruling out absolutely  everything else before headgasket failure.

Mate i would really love you to be right hahah i will give it another try bleeding i might drain the full system again and start from scratch, whats the best way to know if its the water pump ive seen videos of checking the weep holes for water but living in scotland theres water everywhere and i dont have a garage hahah

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Pop your right hand side (as you look at the front of the car) timing cover off and you’ll see the water pump at the bottom, any leaks should be fairly obvious. Unfortunately mine didn’t have this and it wasn’t until I took it out the issue became apparent. Also make sure you’re getting water circulating while bleeding. 

Alternatively, as Tidgy suggested get a sniff test done, probably the simplest check for the least cost. 

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Hopefully it's either air in the system,  iffy stat or header tank cap . As the the interior fans should blow hot if the water is circulating 

Do the engine rad fans cut in ,is the bottom rad hose and flow /return to the heater matrix getting hot ?

Shortly before the rad fans cut in the thermostat should open allowing the water in the rad to flow through the engine , so the bottom rad hose should get hotter .

Heater matrix hoses are under the tmic and go through the bulkhead , if the water is circulating both flow from and return to block should get hot . If not could be stat or airlock restricting flow .

 

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23 hours ago, Andy... said:

Yeah i thought about water pump also but tidgy hit the nail on the head soon as i put boost it does it 😭😭😭gutted whats the going rate of HG repair these days lol

2.5 hg is a full rebuild job. Anyone saying anything else I would question their knowledge. 

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