Richb Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Hi new here Bought first subaru today a 96 impreza wrx estate (import). its got a few things wrong though it cruises beautifully, it seems to missfire badly under heavy acceleration(???) hopefully nothing serious would be a shame if its destined for scrap already. Still, its awesome regardless of problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Welcome aboard fella, could be a dodgy Maf, there is a diagnostics you can do on it, under the drivers side of the dash there are 4 plugs, 2 green and 2 black, they will all be unplugged, plug the 2 black together and turn the ignition on, watch the check engine light and note the flashes it does, there is a full write up on it on the net, I think on scoobypedia but I'm not at the laptop right now so hopefully someone else will be along that knows for sure 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Hi mate welcome to S.O.C Guide here for the self diagnostics http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes-classic-impreza%E2%80%99s-only/ Could be bad plugs or coil packs. Or as Miggs has said the MAF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Wotcha and welcome - as Miggs says + keep us posted if we can help / provide advice we shall do so :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Just catching up on here as it's been a while, I noticed you put all the info I just mentioned in a thread DOH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 No worry's mate a member awhile go wanted to know how it was done so thought have it here to make life easy :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Could do with keeping any useful posts pinned in the relevant sections everything somebody posts something that could be of use 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richb Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 cheers, ill have a read now, getting it checked over by local garage tomorrow, its just embarressing going for an overtake and all of a sudden it just bogs down with no power its fine when i lift off throttle a little after though. ill keep you posted with progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Could do with keeping any useful posts pinned in the relevant sections everything somebody posts something that could be of use We was on about doing that before. I have pinned it in the engine section for now. And yeah nothing worse going for an over take and it not making it :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richb Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 right just had a look i got a 45 (map sensor) and an 11 (crankshaft position sensor) easy fix's or pain in the ar*e yeah unfortunatly it was my mother in her hybrid yaris..... she didnt notice but im definetly hangin my head in shame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 I've never done them myself but have been told they are relatively simple to get to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 The crank sensor that is, the map sensor is next to the boost solenoid in the drivers inner front wing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Blow yeah I can feel your pain ;) I guess depends how good you are with a set of spanner's :) Both are not big jobs. I've posted the Admin Some workshop manual's in PDF format to host for us, but I I'm guessing he's been busy so their not on here yet :( but until then I will see if I can find some pictures or even better a video on youtube for you. It's said it's best when replacing Crankshaft Position Sensor, to change (CMP) Camshaft Posistion Sensor. But can always just risk changing CPS if you still have an error it will be more likely CMP. If you let us know be happy to help you locate where they are if you want to try yourself :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richb Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 so isit the sensors that are faulty or possibly the thing its sensing as-well? (probably a dumb question) and i take it i just need to get new ones cant just clean them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 sometimes cleaning them can fix it, i had a clio in once that a garage had diagnosed a faulty head gasket and it was just the crank sensor at fault, took it off, cleaned the carbon off it and refitted and it was good for a couple of years till the owner upgraded to a newer car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 1-Pressure sensor 2-Pressure exchange solenoid valve 3-Wastegate control solenoid valve 4-MAP sensor 5-Oxygen sensor 6-Vehicle speed sensor 2 7-Engine coolant temperature sensor 8-Throttle position sensor 9-Idle switch 10-Idle air control solenoid valve 11-Knock sensor 12-Camshaft position sensor 13-Crankshaft position sensor 14-Purge control solenoid valve 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 As said above sometimes it is a bit of crap built up or rust and a clean up does sort it. But I think you would be very lucky more with the crankshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richb Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 so it came back from the garage with no faults, apparently the codes are old and just havent been cleared but still got the problem of the car all of a sudden missfiring under heavy acceleration, though am pleased all it needs is a new clutch and itll fly through the mot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Well good result there I guess. And I nearly said have you cleared them to see if they return sorry :( What fuel are you using 95 ron ? Just out of interest. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve33 Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 start with easy things first,spark plug gaps,and clean all sencers (maf)you can get too,had many a problem myself ,with missfiring etc,spark gaps,is a must to check,as could be plugs are gapped wrong,and under throttle,isnt igniting fuel,start easy,the fauklt on my car turned out to be something as silly as a vacum pipe with pin hole,,which caused loads of hassle :0( wish you all the best 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richb Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 Cheers, Job for Tomorrow then. and yeah at the moment I'm running on 95, recommend going to high octane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 yeh they run miles better on optimax from Shell or ultimate from bp, tesco also do 100 ron i believe, i've had issues with asdas petrol in the past on other cars, they seem to run rough on it like it's watered down type of thing do you know how to clear the codes? unplug the Battery for an hour or more and they clear from the system, if there are no faults store after the clear the check engine light just does a constant flash, no pattern to it as such Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Yeah it's better to have the high octane stuff I've read it can take a full tank for the ECU to relearn the fuel type used. But I'm not sure about that. But that could be the problem when it's at boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Owners Club Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Welcome to the Subaru Owners Club! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richb Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 hello I'm back, with more problems. yesterday i went out, was only a short journey 3-4 miles at most, but at the end of my journey the engine would not idle right kept dropping to 200-300 rpm sometimes under but didn't stall the engine light flashed up every time the revs went above that and loads of smoke pouring out the exhaust my mate said he could smell petrol the smoke was white (i think it was 1030 at night), so i parked it up over night and just gone to get it and it started fine idled fine no warning lights on no smoke though i haven't let it warm up fully yet which is when it seemed to start having problems last night. once again i ask for your wisdom of what i can check any solutions or suggestions welcome thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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