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possible head gasket or water pump


damien e
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i am just waiting for pp to get back to me with a quote on picking the car up. the funny thing is that it drive fun. it was driven a few days before finding the head gasket has gone. it drove fine and did not try to over heat. it just over heats sometimes (not that many times).

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Unfortunately, headgaskets and ringland failure are fairly common on the 2.5 ltrs but if caught early or when just seeping occasionally under boost ,The bottom end could be fine.

but as I said they're also prone to ringland failure and the usual way to make sure this doesn't happen is to change the pistons for aftermarket ones .

Personally if it was mine I'd get a full rebuild done , last thing youd want is  to pay out for the h.g to be replaced only for the ringland or bottom end failure to happen at some point .

It makes sense to do it once and do it right ,to save having to do it all again in a few years /months 

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23 hours ago, savage bulldogs said:

Unfortunately, headgaskets and ringland failure are fairly common on the 2.5 ltrs but if caught early or when just seeping occasionally under boost ,The bottom end could be fine.

but as I said they're also prone to ringland failure and the usual way to make sure this doesn't happen is to change the pistons for aftermarket ones .

Personally if it was mine I'd get a full rebuild done , last thing youd want is  to pay out for the h.g to be replaced only for the ringland or bottom end failure to happen at some point .

It makes sense to do it once and do it right ,to save having to do it all again in a few years /months 

I know what you are saying, I was looking to sell the car before i knew the head gasket was bad. It was driven before i did the sniff test and it drove fine, it did not try to over heat or even get hot.(kinda strange) i am weight up the cost of doing the head gasket and rebuilding it. I am going to take it to pp and see what they say when sorting it out. I understand the problems with the 2.5 engine. To be fair if i had the space to do it, i would have done it myself. I used to work as a mechanic and i have rebuilt engine before. I don't have the space nor tools to carry out the rebuild myself. I have owned the car since November 2019 and it never over heated but it has tried to and i let it cool down and drove home safety,  I know it would sell for more if the engine was rebuild and i trust pp to be fair in what the car needs. 

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the car is not going to pp. i got bad vibes from them. they were pushing me to get my engine forged then trying to push towards rebuild cost that starts from £2,250 plus £300 for head studs and £75 for water. They said he would get back with me with the price for picking car up from west london, i rang at 9.20 in the morning still got nothing. i got the feeling they can't be arsed to do it. i rang slow boy racing and slow boy asked more questions than pp about what i wanted to be done. slow boy said at just under 70k miles it don't need a rebuild. They did not pressure me into forging my engine either but told me what was needed to be done with best and wrong price. i got better feeling from slow boy racing then from pp. 

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5 hours ago, Tidgy said:

full rebuild isn't only due to milage, i would sugest looking elsewhere if your being advised not to

i was looking at pp parts list for a rebuild and it don't say about changing pistons or con-rod. 

this is what they do for a rebuild and to me that ain't going to stop ring land failure.

Full strip down
Engine seal kit
ACL race bearings
Hardened 79mm crankshaft
Rebuild
Oil modine
Spark plugs
Motorsport multi layer steel gaskets
Thermostat
Timing Belt
Rocker gasket
Cam seals
Crank seals
Full decontamination
Clean and measure
Oil & Filter
Coolants
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A full rebuild is generally just a engine refresh using standard parts .

So teardown, clean ,machine where necessary ,replace parts that wear (bearings ,rings ,seals ect) and re assembly. 

Forging would include aftermarket forged pistons as a bear minimum. 

Then fully forged would include rods , headstuds and maybe deck pinning or converting to closed deck (pending on hp target) 

I know a few that use pole  position or slow boy regularly but mainly for maintenance or modifications. 

Not that i know there's anything wrong with either of their engine building capabilities but just through who I've personally dealt with over the past decade .

If I couldn't build my own engines I'd probably only use a few Subaru specialist to build me a block.

Paul finch 

Alyn @asperformance 

Martyn @Enginetuner 

Mick at R.M performance (ex api)

But like most advice as to who's good , personal preference will always give a few different answers

I'd make a generic email listing usage info and h.p target and ping it to a few different companies .

There's plenty to choose from and it's no small change job if you go forged 

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6 hours ago, damien e said:

i was looking at pp parts list for a rebuild and it don't say about changing pistons or con-rod. 

this is what they do for a rebuild and to me that ain't going to stop ring land failure.

Full strip down
Engine seal kit
ACL race bearings
Hardened 79mm crankshaft
Rebuild
Oil modine
Spark plugs
Motorsport multi layer steel gaskets
Thermostat
Timing Belt
Rocker gasket
Cam seals
Crank seals
Full decontamination
Clean and measure
Oil & Filter
Coolants

Stock pistons are known to drop ringlands very frequently, if they do after you have had it built then your back to full rebuild teritory again and could wipe out the block and heads. Bear in mind they arn't forged, they are heat treated.

Rods really depends on what you plan to do, 400 is about the limit on the standard rods, so makes sense to replace them while its apart.

Crank shaft is a some need it, some don't, but its a cse of assessing when its stripped.

Other thing to consider is what your planning to do tuning wise, closed decking the block will make it alot stronger if you planing to go up the power band, but its not a must do if your not. its circa £500 on top so up to you as far as if you do it.

mine is and you can have a nosey here at the build for a few ideas 🙂

 

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9 hours ago, Tidgy said:

Stock pistons are known to drop ringlands very frequently, if they do after you have had it built then your back to full rebuild teritory again and could wipe out the block and heads. Bear in mind they arn't forged, they are heat treated.

Rods really depends on what you plan to do, 400 is about the limit on the standard rods, so makes sense to replace them while its apart.

Crank shaft is a some need it, some don't, but its a cse of assessing when its stripped.

Other thing to consider is what your planning to do tuning wise, closed decking the block will make it alot stronger if you planing to go up the power band, but its not a must do if your not. its circa £500 on top so up to you as far as if you do it.

mine is and you can have a nosey here at the build for a few ideas 🙂

 

i know what you are saying, i don't have proof that my engine is forged, i believe it has been remapped at one point. If i was going to do a engine build i would of gotten a closed deck. i would of loved to do it myself but don't have tool nor space to do it. slow boy asked me if my car was remapped as i said i don't know as i don't have proof. they said they were going to check and make sure it set up back to the setting it went it with.

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