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Subaru S-Turbo Greddy Profec Bspec II Issue


Petar Forester
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Hello friends !

Nice to meet you.

We recently bought the marked subaru s-turbo 2000.

It is equipped with Greddy Profec Bspec II boost controler which is seems to me to be faulty ...

because on out boost gauge max pressure it assumes its 0.5 BAR we want to achieve 1 bar....

It seems to me that the unit don,t accept and save new setting which I enter 

When i click mode its always loads the default value and whatever changes are done in the unit

there is no difference at the boost...

Thanks in advance i will provide any detailed information which is needed and so on !

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Electrical boost controllers can give the car a little more response and power but definitely need to be set up while monitoring knock and afr .

 

You can't simply turn the boost up and expect the ECU to know how much fuel is needed to match the extra air (boost) or how much ignition timing to use .

But gradually bringing the boost up to a safe level while monitoring knock and afr on a dyno , there is gains to be had . But by the time you've paid for a dyno session and a few hrs of the tuners labour ... you might as well get it remapped properly using something like ecutek  software.

Try disconnecting the vacuum lines off the greddy boost solinoid and reconnect the factory boost solinoid to the actuator and turbo outlet . This should give you stock boost of around 0.6 to 0.8 bar 

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Hi there, 

sorry for the late answer but we had some snow around and haven`t got much time to spend ot pc this weekend 😄

thanks a lot for your help and time!

So we might consider that EBC is no actual anymore so we might throw it away 

and to remap the ECU itself and to add mechanical boost controler something like  TurboSmart ?

The current ECU installed from previous owner is from STI i can check for more details what exactly is it.

 

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1 hour ago, Petar Forester said:

Hi there, 

sorry for the late answer but we had some snow around and haven`t got much time to spend ot pc this weekend 😄

thanks a lot for your help and time!

So we might consider that EBC is no actual anymore so we might throw it away 

and to remap the ECU itself and to add mechanical boost controler something like  TurboSmart ?

The current ECU installed from previous owner is from STI i can check for more details what exactly is it.

 

no external boost control is needed on a subaru. By the time to stock ecu struggles to cope you need to go stand alone ecu anyway. If you need some extra way of controlling the boost then something is wrong or your at stand alone ecu time.

Unlike old fords and stuff you can't just change the boost levels, fueling needs to be adjusted to suit so you don't fry the engine. Hence why additional boost control is a waste of money.

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I wouldn't say it waste of money but it is limited in what achievable.
The standard boost control is bleed type and thus not absolute best at boost response and has limitations of hardware and software control ability of that early era design .
The standard maf and map will read any air flow given to it within its range and map table (and that is more than standard factory boost) so as long as keep boost thus air flow sensible the standard sensors and map can cope reading it accurately (This is the stock limits of what achievable if ignition and fuelling meeting requirements) .
Main issue is component age/fatigue so any boost increase needs monitoring with wideband and knock sensors when setting a level above stock, fuelling tends be area that can struggle from worn pumps, poor wiring, pressure regulators not hitting the mark, injector flow and spray patterns poor . A good fuel pump and regulator can make the fuelling acceptable for moderate boost increases .
Ignition timing standard maps are pretty safe on realistic boost ranges, when mapping you normally increasing timing for easy power gains as standard map quite conservative .
In short some gains can be had from a stand alone boost controller and you can get perfectly good results from standard ecu (remapping when beyond range of standard map tables or sensors) and you can go a long way on remapping and linked hardware upgrades before truly needing another ecu .
A lot of ecu changes to standalone comes down to programming ease/speed and modern era reasonable pricing along with tuning scene marketing over fact it truly needed due to real limitation .
 

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25 minutes ago, Mr B said:

I wouldn't say it waste of money but it is limited in what achievable.
The standard boost control is bleed type and thus not absolute best at boost response and has limitations of hardware and software control ability of that early era design .
The standard maf and map will read any air flow given to it within its range and map table (and that is more than standard factory boost) so as long as keep boost thus air flow sensible the standard sensors and map can cope reading it accurately (This is the stock limits of what achievable if ignition and fuelling meeting requirements) .
Main issue is component age/fatigue so any boost increase needs monitoring with wideband and knock sensors when setting a level above stock, fuelling tends be area that can struggle from worn pumps, poor wiring, pressure regulators not hitting the mark, injector flow and spray patterns poor . A good fuel pump and regulator can make the fuelling acceptable for moderate boost increases .
Ignition timing standard maps are pretty safe on realistic boost ranges, when mapping you normally increasing timing for easy power gains as standard map quite conservative .
In short some gains can be had from a stand alone boost controller and you can get perfectly good results from standard ecu (remapping when beyond range of standard map tables or sensors) and you can go a long way on remapping and linked hardware upgrades before truly needing another ecu .
A lot of ecu changes to standalone comes down to programming ease/speed and modern era reasonable pricing along with tuning scene marketing over fact it truly needed due to real limitation .
 

 

if you are pushing it that hard your going to have to remove the stock safety features becuase the levels are above the visible limits, which you dont want to be doing. iirc the absolute visible limit of even the later ecu's is just under 1.7bar. You want to be below that level with tollerance so you don't overshoot, so in reality your limited to 1.6bar give or take. Bear in mind this is more a general comment regarding swapping to after market when you go up the power level.

The boost control in the stock ecu is fine at lower levels of boost even on the early cars, although i agree they are showing their age, but at that point your then back to a case of looking at replacing the whole unit as boost control isn't the only issue.

Makes external boost controllers a waste of money and setup time.

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Not really waste of money if all you after is some modest gains making most of standard map potential/limits .
They cheap and dirt cheap used , you get potential of improved boost control system, visual readings and warnings.
Any old turbo car wants a trip to a dyno even when standard power or at least a road run with wide band and knock monitoring to check general ability still acceptable .
About best money an owner could spend is some setup time and checkup but unfortunately most don't until too late .

With maf map and injector changes within sensible resolution you got lot of potential and programable parameters .
Standard ecu's far more capable than most remember, go back 15 to 20 years and see what they achieved from them  in motorsport and private tuning .
It more a case that modern ECU got a lot more affordable and is easier/faster map and has advancements from massive technology leap that maybe benefit to you pending on what you actually doing .

A lot of people with modest power goals (and majority power numbers are modest on 4 pot subarus) are actually wasting money on high end standalone ecu's that totally not needed for build spec and intended usage .
To not waste money you got be very honest with yourself on build goals and have honest flexible tuners .

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HI friends!
I forgot to mention that the turbo is TD04 already .... larger down pipe ,decated and whole exhaust system is upgraded larger than stock i think its from sti.
Coolant radiator is changed with biger one alloy,new vacum lines,new plugs,new cables...
I don,t want to boost it more the 1 bar we have another cars for highways,longer distances,comfort and etc...
So i`m seeking the best variant to gain little more power without braking the engine to pieces haha :D

I,m not in hurry to make everything today.... if we had to we will upgrade fuel system/injectors and etc. step by step.
This one is for free time,fun little out of the road trips and cruising around :)
The strange thing is that perhaps because of the ECU swap the car does not have a limiter ....
Also it has V-max limiter at 180 KM/h which perhaps is normal cos
a friend own a legacy bi-turbo 280 hp stock whick also stop accelerating at 180.
Greets and thank you for your time and advice.


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