Bouncer Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Sport failed on earlier....it's a 98 with 90000 good outside and in...but! I got a quote from the mobile mechanic I use...... £450-5 mainly for labour and said about a day and half to 2 days work just to change the subframe, the rest's welding as you'll see below Nearside rear lower (outer sill) subframe mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3) Offside rear lower (outer sill) subframe mounting area excessively corroded (2. 4. A 3) Nearside rear upper (inner wheel arch) suspension and component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded Offside rear upper (inner wheel arch) suspension and component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded Centre exhaust has majot leak of exhaust gases Rear subframe corroded and seriously weakened Offside front (brake hose at banjo bolt at caliper) breaking system leaking There's also a page at the back, says something about wheel bearings but dont know if it's a fail or not, I'll ask tomorrow....but I think that's enough to go on for now.....NOW do I fix, scrap or sell (complete and running) for spares? He based his labour on 12 hrs at about £28 = £340-50 and me supplying subframe and bushes....so would be about £450-50 total.....is it worth it for a non turbo, as I know I'd need to keep for a long time. It'd be the same for the wrx though, as the head gasket's more or less the same cost, so it's decision time of what to keep and try and run. I know the non turbo will not be alot better on fuel than turbo when out boost as the fueling's the same design ie uses it to cool the cylinders/pistons.....so like I say....decision time! I just read the advisories... Front subframe corroded but not seiously weakened (untill next !Removed! year!!) Towbar component slightly corroded Vehicle structure slightly corroded within 10cm of towbar mounting Offside and nearside front lower sills have corrosion but not within 30cm of prescribed area !Removed! hell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 jeez buddy that is some list there but at least it is all fixable. you mentioned a while back that fuel economy was now more of a priority so fixing the sport would be the better long term option, however fixing either, in my mind, means a long term commitment as they will both owe you in outlay. I would have to re read but I seem to remember the possibility of taking some of the good stuff ie brakes from the WRX to fit to the sport so that would help support some of the improvement but that would still leave you with a WRX which needs attention or that will need breaking to recoup some funds or you bite the bullet and just scrap the WRX. what would I do fix the wrx and sell it try and at least break even take anything worth breaking from the sport to sell possibly store it in the empty space from the wrx. then go shopping for a sport in the colour you want etc but without the rust etc of this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 Yep, quite a bit eh I know I speak of mpg, but as the tester said today (and the mechanic yesterday) the non turbo's probably much the same as the turbo when driving off boost, there might 2-3 in it but not hellish much....floor it (turbo) then obviously it's diffirent ball game. Yea I see what you mean as regards swapping/breaking ect So you would get the heads fixed on the wrx and punt it, take the good bits off the sport and scrap the rest I know I said about about £450-5 for everything inc his labour.....wrong!....I still need a 2nd cat, it passed emissions but still failed as it's holed, so that's another £65 inc vat and post, he'd probably fit it when doing the rest though, but that's me up to more/less 600 then....alot of !Removed! money isn't it for a 98 2.0 non turbo. I'm sure there's poeple been in a similar situation with their cars and spent on them, they then just to reside themself to hold onto it, and just simply get the use out it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 2k for this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-Subaru-Impreza-Standard-Car-1994cc-Petrol-/370672683090?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item564dd04852 but as I said if it was me Id fix the wrx then sell break the sport then buy a sport you like I have tried driving around off boost - only works for a few miles, but that is just me :D 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 I'd get the wagon though, as the 2 I've got are, I prefer them You're probably right.....I'll think hard about it in the next day or 2, I texed the mechanic, said I'd let him know....he said 2 days to be safe, if he fixes it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 I'm going to start by congratulating you on the longest fail list I have ever seen :o Well almost. But WOW! That's worth scrap for me mate sorry to say I haven't read whats been put since I will read in a minute. But I would try salvage what I could from the 2 car's you have either with breaking scrap or repair, and look for another one lets face it I think you now know what to look for ;) Hell I feel for you mate that much if I won the lotto I'd buy you one myself :) But I'm as lucky with that as you have been with the past two Subaru's :( But I'd look at getting rid and looking at other's :( Ok just read through. Think Jay nailed it myself with trying to get the WRX sorted and sold on as a working car. and scarp the rest or break I would say that's best chance of getting some money back. for another car. But will let you think about whats best for you. As it's always easy for someone looking from the outside in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 Lol.....it's some list isn't it......had to laugh with Barry (tester) earlier though when he'd finished, he said "oh by the way you've got 2 number plate bulbs out too"....we really just had a good chuckle. He said though its the worst inner arches he'd saw in his 14 years testing, I said well at least I've won that one....another laugh. Seriously though, I'm thinking about Jay's idea....see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 I personally wouldn't invest to much in the sport as unfortunately I think the rot will get worse . What's the bodywork like on the wrx (is it worth investing in)? What year is the wrx has it got a cdb ? (# marks near the alternator) If so id scrap the sport sell the cdb (even with the head gasket gone you should get £300 ) then either put another engine in the wrx or break it and use the funds to find a replacement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Well you was having a laugh with it so that's a good sign Victor ;) lol You can always hold faith I have put the lotto on but I've not checked the result's ;) But we are all here if we can help as you know :) And you have Miggs to come on and poke fun yet ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 I personally wouldn't invest to much in the sport as unfortunately I think the rot will get worse . What's the bodywork like on the wrx (is it worth investing in)? What year is the wrx has it got a cdb ? (# marks near the alternator) If so id scrap the sport sell the cdb (even with the head gasket gone you should get £300 ) then either put another engine in the wrx or break it and use the funds to find a replacement. Body on the wrx it's really quite good considering it's a 95 and I'm about the 10th owner since 06, god know what's happened to the poor sport and how/where it's been kept. What's cdb? Well you was having a laugh with it so that's a good sign Victor ;) lol You can always hold faith I have put the lotto on but I've not checked the result's ;) But we are all here if we can help as you know :) And you have Miggs to come on and poke fun yet ;) I guess if I didn't laugh I'd scream I may well need some cyber help soon....might see a shrink too :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 I'd save money and not bother with the shrink ;) It helps to be a little crazy in this world :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 Think I'm a combination of crazy, stupid and thick...maybe not in that order though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Closed deck block their used for big power builds but , being a my 95 it shouldn't have one as standard . I'll chuck a pic up of how to identify one this evening anyways (just in case) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 if i was in this position i would fix the turbo get it taxed and mot'd and sell, put the money to one side, sell the sport as is spares or repairs of strip it down for parts then with the money from both get a decent sport if fuel economy is a factor if not then get a turbo, the guy in the garage is talking sense in the fact off boost the 2 are pretty close economy wise, i got the turbo in place of a V6 4x4 golf, fuel economy in the v6 is guzzling all the time as it's always fuelling 6 pots n/a the turbo off boost fuels 4, in reality the car stays off boost for 5/6 mins tops, it's extremely hard to stay off boost plus if you ever jump on the motorway you can't avoid it, i did 140 mile round trip on tuesday night at around 55-60 mph trying to conserve fuel, i did it on £35 of juice, i have also done 30 miles at 70-80 and that was £30 so it makes a difference, thing is the higher speed of the 2 was just me in the car driving normally, the slower was with a mate going there and he had paid for the fuel, then following him back in his new car and keeping to his speed, all factors that make driving styles different 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 The turbo still has 5 months mot and 4 months tax, it's the non turbo that I put through and needs all the work, yea the guy in the garage has a point as regards mpg between both. So you would fix the turbo up to too ie get the head done and sell. Thing is though, there's plenty of turbos for sale, really alot.......but hardly any sports, that tells me that more and more just can't run them (turbos that is), so I'd probably find it hard very hard to sell it unless I took a big loss (which is what would probably happen heads fixed or not) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 I'd be worried about the sills and how far the tin worm has got into the inner sills. Maybe worth taking a look as it could bump the price of a fix even further. Gambit i wish i'd still kept the fail cert for my sunny that ran into 7 pages of the old style mot 90% of them being red in colour :O woild gave been good for a giggle. I'd be inclined to weigh up everything and see what your wallet and heart say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Yep that would have topped the most I'd ever seen. touch wood, hairy wood is better (touches head) I've never seen one more then the one sheet of fails. My mates Missus ford KA was 3 sheets long and I thought that was bad :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miggs Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 The turbo still has 5 months mot and 4 months tax, it's the non turbo that I put through and needs all the work, yea the guy in the garage has a point as regards mpg between both. So you would fix the turbo up to too ie get the head done and sell. Thing is though, there's plenty of turbos for sale, really alot.......but hardly any sports, that tells me that more and more just can't run them (turbos that is), so I'd probably find it hard very hard to sell it unless I took a big loss (which is what would probably happen heads fixed or not) i think the thirsty nature of the turbo means some people are getting rid as they can't justify the fuel, the guy that runs the scooby garage near me is always selling classic turbos, he gets shut of at 2 cars every week and a half, he gets the odd sport in but always scraps them after getting the panels off them or just selling for px prices, the reason theres not many sports about is the boy racers can't afford the turbo but they can have turbo looks for less insurance, they will keep them until they kill them or they can afford the turbo, that's my thoguths Dogma had a sport and was well chuffed with it, if the gearbox hadn't gone he would have kept it quite a lot longer, he got the awd of the turbo, the noise of the scoob and fuel economy to die for, i think most sport owners will be the same, also you'll get more turbos for sale that have engine issues and the owners is trying to sell without anybody realising and it doesn't cost him the earth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Yea I know what you mean....mine (the sport) hasn't had boy racers, I think all the damage underneath's been the 2nd guy that had it 11 years, he's took care of the outside and in but not bothered with under it, !Removed! shame, as it drives great, not a rattle, clunk or anything, and the interior I like. This is a !Removed! hard decision to make, and know me, I'll make the wrong one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Not the best pic but its to dark to get another tonight .Directly above the end of the crankshaft there's loads of ### marks on a closed deck block .as I said before I've seen just the block halves sell for £300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Savage why am I looking at that and what's the diffirence between closed and open, also You said in another about cdb or cbd...what's that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Cdb is a closed deck block which is basically a solid block of ally with the piston sleeves inside , because it has more metal to support each sleeve (with uprated internals) they handle the most power and therefore sell for more money (even if they're not running) so worth checking as you could sell your knackered engine to help fund a new one . Semi closed deck will handle less power as they only have 4 webs of ally at 12 , 3, 6, 9 '0' clock to support the piston sleeve . Open deck just have 2 webs off ally supporting each sleeve . You can get open or semi closed "pinned" (more webs added) to make them stronger but it's cheaper just to use a cdb for bigger power builds , but they were only ever fitted from the factory for the first 2 yrs and therfore quite rare 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bouncer Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Ah ok, didn't know, thanks for explaining it, don't think mine will be like that I'll check it though, if it was the sti then maybe, as they're seemingly about 280hp as opposed to mine about 230-40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Pete Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Pic of the hatch markings by the alternator on a closed deck block. Like most have said I would break the sport, fix the wrx and sell it, find a better car to buy, sport or turbo. You can drive pretty economically just change gear before 3k rpm as the boost kicks in just after. If you are frugal with the boost it can be done, but it easier to buy the sport if you don't want the acceleration and fun that comes with the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 The early wrx 's and sti's all had cdb 's (all v1's and some v2's) the sti's have different internals,cams, turbo's and injectors , but the same block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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