im still having trouble trying to time my car up fitted new belt but !Removed! having a nightmare with it anyone no of a mobile mechanic im in canterbury belt is on covers are of just trying to line up pully marks one end ok then other end just out having a nightmare with it....drove yesterday one tooth out but lacking power no guts drove ok but if you want power quick then forget it....help needed this is doing my head in lol

anybody......  i need hand on help   :(

Don't know anyone over that way. What's the issue?

When I did mine, I just had a new belt, but you have to replace the tensioner and pullies with a new ones as using the old ones made the belt half a tooth out.

I think there is a guide on here somewhere...

 

Also Matt or Savage may know someone who is reasonably close to you??

Tip for those who don't do this regularly, rotate engine to line up timing marks with old belt, check timing correct & familiarise yourself with what is hopefully the correct timing positions, now use a marker pen & mark one tooth on pulley to the 2 belt teeth that lay either side of that pulley tooth.

Do this for all pulleys requiring timing & mark crank with a C so you got a reference point.

Transfer these mark to new belt by counting teeth between markings & also count teeth total to check belts same.

Once done this makes putting belt on easy & if slips a bit on one pulley easy to fiddle till right then recheck against proper alignment marks. Do be aware if you do a full revolution clockwise you pen marks won't line up again so be 100% happy with your belt position & you can turn engine anticlockwise a fraction then clockwise to align your marks to be sure then rotate fully clockwise to settle & recheck tension & timing with standard markings.

Other tip is spend some time looking at standard timing alignment marks prior to pulling it off as that will be of benefit in helping you be sure you right at end of job.

 

Could help the OP too, as by marking what pulleys are right & one that out you should find it easier to correct without loosing timing on correct ones,  small bull clips can be handy too for holding belt to pulley if you ain't go a spare hand.

 

Impossible to be half a tooth out in sense of belt to pulleys but actual marking tolerance, some degree of movement of crank pulley on keyway, looking at marking at silly angles, belt slack present as not rotated & tensioned correctly, faulty/poor spec parts can cause some issues here too so check old to new & double check everything as removed & replaced to eliminate error & doubts. Also use a decent belt kit such as the ADL as there is a good reason why most decent subaru independents use it ...

do i  have to replace the tensioner and pullies with new ones ? can i not just put a new belt on and time up ?

If you bought kit with new pulleys & tensioner then use them. I always do the job with complete kit as reduces risk of failure of these components shortly after new belt fitted & causing belt jump or break ...

I would replace tbh it's cheaper than an engine rebuild.

I would always advice to do all of them. And thanks Mr B some great info there :)