savage bulldogs

I've always used cheap mineral oil for running in as it helps things "bed in" quicker I changed it at 250 mls for a new filter and more mineral oil , then at 1k new filter , fully synthetic and map . I used millers running in oil this time (which is a mineral based oil) it's slightly more expensive than cheaper branded mineral oil but this was mainly due to it being my first turbo build and not wanting to take any chances

Can't really as the dog wouldn't like it lol I sit on my own 3 seater sofa with the 4 stone bulldog snoring on my lap most evenings [emoji57] I'd have to get a desk and a chair for 2 [emoji4]

I do need a good rally game in my life. Haven't played a decent one since mcrae dirt . Any one recommend one coming out on the ps4 ?

I'm still quite enjoying career mode on this, it's not easy though . I haven't got a wheel but I've made the controller a lot less twitchy by adjusting the "dead zone" and sensitivity a bit .

Just paid up for me on the sunday [emoji6] If anyone else comes with me they'll either jump in with me or park outside and pay on the gate

Definitely need new coilpacks then lol Cheapest option Buy some second hand coilpacks from a reputable breaker £20 ish (good for 330 hp ish) or Newage coilpack with pigtails about £100 and half a day with a soldiering iron but they'll run 600hp + Will admit i Wouldn't have thought a misfire would cause fuel cut and low peak boost just a intermittent miss at high revs on boost and sometimes a lumpy idle Imo fuel cut is more likely to be caused by a combination of the low power map (probably made for the lower profile cams and smaller turbo ) and the decat and fmic, that are throwing the air in and gas out of the map parameters. As tidgy said ,don't cain it about on boost to much untill it's running right, cos if it runs lean it will go bang bud [emoji6]

About time [emoji12]

What colour are your injectors ? it should have grey 380's and if they're yellow 440's it would cause over fuelling (and so would a unmapped decat) Unfortunately they're isn't a ecu that will plug n play with a decat . Cheapest option would probably be getting a esl board fitted and mapped (about £600 supplied, fitted and mapped) You might save a bit(£100 ish) if you can find a second hand v2 esl'd/alcertek'd ecu and get someone to fit and map it

It's a bit too loud tbh jay but it helps me keep off boost Talking about boost it's about time you had some boost n burble back in your life ain't it bud [emoji6]

The bit near the skull will be a sender unit for a aftermarket oil pressure gauge (or maybe the avcr) On the drivers suspension turret there's a boost solenoid with 3 vac lines coming off it where does each one go to ? Also on the same turret bracket there's the map sensor with a black plug and one vac line attached where does the vac line go to ? I think your ecu should be a 6k or a z4 I think the v5 is out of a auto wrx wagon running lower boost and 220 hp . If so your probably hitting boost cut in higher gears as the pressure in the inlet rises when In higher gears or under more load (going uphill) I can't help with electrics much I'm afraid but imo with the fmic in place and the cutting issues I'd look into getting the right ecu and if it improves get it on a dyno before giving up on it just yet

I'm in Suffolk where abouts are you fella ? I've got a set of standard face lift headlights and a few other bits here .

Somewhere on here there's a list of boost solenoid vac line positions for all models that I've posted which would be handy if your intending on putting the boost control back to standard . I think yours will have a 3 port boost solenoid bottom port to intake pipe ,somwhere between turbo intake and air filter (mine vta in the pic) Middle port to actuator Top port to turbo outlet Not the best pic to illustrate as mine isn't running the standard vac set up Can't help much today as I was "allowed" to play with the car yesterday so have to do some gardening today [emoji53]

Anybody with a 4wd dyno should monitor afr , knock and det while dyno' ing a car but one that knows his scoobs would be a bonus bud

Dud you do a ecu code reset after fitting the new sensor as it might just be a old stored code . As for a health check have a google for a local 4wd dyno (preferably with scooby experience) should cost about £50 for a dyno run and printout of boost, hp, torque and afr which should point out if it's running safe

Think that's a avcr when plumbed in they're a good bit of kit to monitor the engine parameters . It's a v2 which has a phase 1 inlet and fuel rail set up . So if you search for or buy anything engine related make sure they'll fit a v2 phase 1 . Did you get any codes from the ecu or whip the cover off to check for a esl ? I wouldn't have thought that's the original ecu for a v2 sti as I think the early sti ecus had pink labels , my v1sti had a pink sa sticker on it

Hi n welcome to soc moxxie . The standard ecu for pre 98 imprezas can't be mapped without having a esl daughter board fitted so I'd start by popping the cover off to see if it has one .As with those mods and the boost controller not working right I doubt the ecu knows what's going on . Here's a pic of a esl boarded ecu Do you know what "version" it is via the model code ? As this will help with identifying what type of fuel set up/inlet phase you have [emoji6] A self code check and a few pics of the bay , vac lines would help as well, bud

Yeah I think that's the jist on their site (pay on the day at the hut for the 1/4 ) What's the close off date for getting the sunday stand form in ?

cheers just me n my scoob for now pete the others own a skyline and a mx5 anyways [emoji55] I'm now off to check up on whether you have to book the quarter in advance, cos I've never done it before

Cheers stants ,I'm definitely going[emoji41] my brv might join me as well but can only commit once he knows his shift pattern . Have we got a stand and if so will I be able to park on it for just the sunday ?

Do I get the tickets for sunday through you gambit or direct from the link ?

Nice clean classic you've got there Chris , nice work fella [emoji106]

Shame you're not closer as I've got a few spares kicking around and we could have tried to eliminate it (plugs , leads , coil pack ,maff , lambda ect ) Try unplugging 1 spark plug lead from the coil pack end then starting it up to see if it's better or worse if worse turn off and plug it back in. Repeat this with each cylinder turning it off before each unplug (unless you want a hi amp shock) to see if it's misfiring on a individual cylinder

thanks rick [emoji106] Bear in mind matts pic's do tell a few lies [emoji5] he had loads of lighting equipment set up around the car and a proper nice looking camera I do try to keep this one as clean as possible cos, even with regular jet washing under under the arches , my last clean arched classic caught tin worm [emoji57]

That idle is throwing me cos it surely shouldn't be able to tick over at 100rpm . Does it drive ok or is it just idle issues?

Cheers chap [emoji106] I've been told that they help when having a proper geo set up done as they give a bit of adjustment on the rear (which otherwise is non adjustable) . I've noticed a big difference with what I've fitted but I think that was mainly because the rear shocks and top mounts were shot to !Removed! lol . It handles really well anyways but a geo set up is on that never ending list (along with brembos and a bigger turbo) As for supporting mods Elbaich pro springs Camber bolts Front and rear strutt braces Whiteline roll center correction kit Arb and droplinks And the wide et rotas . Makes fun it in the twistys [emoji6]