savage bulldogs

Here you go bud http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/3094-a-few-pics-of-my-project-so-far/ it's been ongoing project for 3 yrs or so and can't see a end to it yet [emoji4] but the thread brushes over a few topics with some helpful pics n links [emoji6]

There is a bit on the coilpack conversion with a link showing how to convert the "pigtails" to fit a classic engine loom , the conversion cost me £80 for the newage coilpacks with pigtails and about 2hrs to cut , splice, heat shrink and fit the coilpacks . Plugs are ngk heat 7's don't know the part number I'm afraid but as long as their for a 2ltr turbo impreza they'll fit (ones for the 2.5 are a different length )

I'm about 25 mins from sudbury bud let me know if you're planning on coming down and I'll try to make sure I'm free fella [emoji106] As for my scoob I think the drivers side plastic interior kick pannel is the only original part of the v3 uk left [emoji1] I've got a build thread on here (it's pinned so doesn't always show up on tapatalk) it shows a bit of the solid single pot to 2 pot newage conversion and a few up to date pics P.s my misfire went when I did a newage coilpack conversion and fitted new ngk 7's gapped at 0.7 [emoji6]

Think I'm the only one in Suffolk on here [emoji57] Unfortunately brandon is about as far away as you can get (and still be in Suffolk) it would take me almost a 1hr to get there so I can't help , sorry bud

At a guess I'd say that you had a r160 hub running single pot rear calipers with vented rear discs [emoji6] 3 types of rear caliper/disc set up's on classics (years and models are approx) Single pot rears with solid rear discs wrx's and uk's Single pot rears with vented rear discs (grove in the caliper is wider to take the vented disc) 94 to 98 sti's had these . 98 onward sti's and type r's had a r180 rear hub and 2 pot rears (same as newage) Give alyn @ as performance a bell cos his website is a bit button moon lol but he knows his scoob brakes and can supply pagid stuff at a competitive price . or speak to him about a 2 pot rear conversion , mine cost me just under £200 including second hand calipers/discs with new pagid pads and ally conversion brackets from alyn . Much better stopping power with the extra "pot" and bigger discs [emoji6]

I've got grafite grey rota boosts on my silver classic but they look a bit "lost" in the arches due to being so dark . I'm thinking of getting them refurbished in either gloss black or silver . Here's a couple of pics.... Mainly cos im a pic !Removed! anyways[emoji4]

I'm all mods declared with both the dvla and my insurance company. if some **** hits my car I don't want to be left out of pocket for having invalid insurance and belive me the insurance companies will wiggle out of paying if given a chance . Did have a 30 min discussion with a traffic copper one morning that pulled me over had a good look round my renny 5gt turbo and couldn't find a genuine fault. So insisted my yellow (factory fit) foglights weren't standard and they were to low . Even though there's a cut out in the front bumper for them it wasn't Until i showed him the Renault stamp on the lenses he just told me to turn them off even though it foggy (fooking fuctard) He then tried to fine me for obscuring the rear drivers window buy hanging a shirt on ....... the "shirt hook" wtf Who looks out of the drivers rear windows in a 2door car no one (that's why they put a shirt fooking hanger hook there) So laid the shirt one the back seat and I asked him if I could borrow his pen...... to right his pc number down . He said he'd let me off this time (knob jockey) Don't get me wrong I'm glad the police are there it's just the odd few "jobs worth" that get my goat. Was that on the wrong thread .... Gonna have to find that rant thread later and get it off my chest lol

That's a v3/v4 engine bay As for brand hks are supposed to be the best but aren't cheap .

I've got a few mates that would give me a hand hopefully over the weekend, if you weren't so far away jay I'd gladly accept the offer bud but remember she's loud n brutal (car not my mrs lol) I might just try changing the controllers setting's to read just boost (bigger readout for just one parameter) and tape it to the cluster while driving up n down some slip lanes

Attowe set up a few settings for me on the apexi hand controller for me to use once i think it's sorted and the eml to flash if any things not right . I can see the live parameters and it will hold peak boost , knock ,injector induity, revs ect but it hits 1.4 bar quite early and only holds the peaks for me to see . I need a co pilot tbh so they can monitor real in time higher in the rev range and not just peak boost afterwards [emoji6] Even if it does seem sorted I'll get it back on the dyno to confirm alls well

Had some scooby shiny stuff turn up today eibach rear camber bolts Maf cone filter adapter plate Blue vacuum pipe So I set about removing the apexi super intake as it was on the car when my brv bought it in 2011 and had seen better days Comparison pic with the massive 3" intake k&n and battered tiny apexi Hopefully it's the reason I wasn't able to hold 1.4 bar above 4.5 k [emoji57] Seems like a likely culprit as when the engine was in the v3 uk(with the k&n) it held 1.4 bar till over 6k although the esl ecu seemed to keep richening up the map and drowning the power with fuel . I'll switch over actuators at the weekend as I've got a spare one anyways. My workload has increased lately so I'm unsure when I'll get chance back to the dyno (again lol) But the k&n looks like it will be more than up to the job[emoji4]

Quite impressed with the ash hose's quality and price but I think they only do generic shapes (not subaru specific sets)

Had a few shineys turn up today too [emoji4] Eibach rear camber bolts ,air filter adapter ( to allow me to fit my 3" k&n cone) and some blue vac lines (didn't like the black stuff I bought)

My 4 pots came off a 97 p1 (along with my prodrive mats) And I'm running godspeed discs [emoji4]

I don't know stants I just assumed that it would just flow and return to the rad eventually but the outlet from the header tank to turbo is high up so it might only flow when really hot

Had a bit of a read up on the v1's and I think your right it was only the v1 sti's that had a build number and v2 onwards came straight from the factory . I asked about the turbo entry type cos early 96 is v2 (top entry) and late 96 is v3 (front entry) but if it's a v2 sti model code it will have a phase 1 inlet and fuel rail set up with a top entry tdo5 as standard

I forgot to ask has it been decatted or any other breathing mods ? and I've just edited my last post as it was meant for a different thread lol

Rattling heatshield and eml has it been decatted ? If so has it been mapped ? As nevell said I'd want to know why the eml was on just in case it was something serious . On the other hand I think the bugeyes do have a easily repaired cam sensor earth fault which sometimes causes a random eml . So it could be a simple fix but me personally I'd wait for a well cherished example , unless it was cheap enough to set some money to one side for repairs

No the 4pot subaru calipers run larger discs but the calipers and discs bolt straight on just watch your wheel offset [emoji6]

It's so the solinoid moves to push the cleaner through bud. It also gives you fault codes which might indicate where your problem is [emoji6] Edited as I posted on the wrong thread [emoji15] [emoji4]

Tbh I only started cleaning and painting stuff under the bonnet cos I got bored while saving for the engine components /waiting for the engineer to finish the over bore . But like most things "scoob" it's a slippery slope cos once one bit looks shiny it makes everything else look !Removed! [emoji5] At least it's cheap to do as it only really costs time and a bit of paint but I would recommend buying cheap second hand bit's(inlets , header tanks ect) and painting them . As you can take your time between coats and once lacquered let it cure for a week or so before fitting [emoji6]

Nevell try..... mark@lateral performance or alyn@AS performance either of them should have injector o rings in stock give either of them a bell rather than ordering through their websites ,as they don't list all their stock online[emoji6]

Boost creep is sometimes caused by a faulty actuator not controlling the wastegate accurately . Especially if it's decatted and not remapped as the ecu might struggle to keep the boost targets in the standard map parameters. It could just be a leaky vacuum pipe or the boost solenoid might need to be cleaned or replaced Have you done a classic self code check? (by connecting the plugs under the dash)

My mate had a 93 wrx in black but tin worm put pay to that [emoji20] Nice to see a clean looking early classic [emoji106] Had it long , any mods ? they're definitely thin on the ground due to rot and being robbed for their cdb's [emoji19]

Is the issue "boost creep" the boost waivers and sometimes even hits the fuel cut ? Has the actuator arm got play in it ?