savage bulldogs

I've got a set of 17" speedline chronos off my uk as well lol. but I was going to sell those once I've got the rotas done . Will admit the 18's won't clear brembos and if I end up with much more power I'll probably need to upgrade the brakes at some point anyways . Think I've just made my mind up time to look for some new wheel nuts and centre caps for the rotas [emoji4]

If the downpipes been removed at some point the gasket might not have been replaced with a genuine subaru one . Same scenario for the upipe gasket and subaru exhaust system gaskets are "crush" type and ideally shouldn't be reused . when they have they tend to blow when cold and blow a bit less once everything is hot and expanded

Hi n welcome to soc you certainly won't have any trouble finding that in a car park , both of my classics are common silver . If you're looking for a replacement long engine (block n heads) any v1 (93) to v4 (98) will be a straight swap[emoji6] although the v1/v2 has a phase 1 inlet and the v3/v4 has a phase 1.5 inlet (different shape and turbo entry) your phase 1 inlet , turbo and auxiliaries will fit to v3/v4 heads as the inlet stud pattern is the same

I'd guess at turbo to downpipe gasket or upipe . Try jacking the front end up (safely) get someone to block the exhaust exit (bit of rag held over the end with their foot) and listen underneath and near the turbo outlet to see if you can pinpoint where it's coming from . Don't run it for a long while blocked release the pressure every now and then just in case you make the blow worse with excessive back pressure

Still can't make my mind up [emoji53] Got a better pic of the 18's But still loving the rotas

Thanks gaulson (i think) [emoji5] I'd slept on it and sort of made my mind up to keep the rotas as they're a lovely wheel but after seeing the 18's photo shopped onto my classic I'm sort of 50 50 now[emoji57] And no stants I'm gonna get you a necklace made from pork chops for xmas ........ Then if ever I find myself in your neck of the woods I can introduce you to my bulldog [emoji23]

Although bugeye sti's are getting thin on the ground (due to being broken for spares/only being made for 2 yrs or so) and that does look a nice low mileage example so had to find /value Saying that if I was looking for a standard bug eye sti I'd want it to be very clean underneath without any signs of rust on the rear strutts/arches with a full good history as I think that was about jdm blob eye money at 8.5k (last time I looked at newage)

Yeah cheers for the pm bud [emoji106] Could we emm give the stickers a miss ..... I still feel a bit queasy from the scoob with the dragon tattoo pic [emoji1]

Not to sure what make they are just thought it might be less hassle than getting my rotas sprayed silver [emoji5]

I think most of us with turbo versions run 99 ron especially if you like the occasional spirited drive cos as you know leaning off under heavy boost is a sure way to melt stuff . However I think that uk spec cars are mapped for our lesser octane fuel as standard

Its Quite a easy and cheap thing to do sam . Just have a look at your existing pipe dia and order a few meters from "autosiliconehoses" (A.S.H) probably only cost you about £15 delivered for 3 mtrs of each dia [emoji6]

I've just spotted these 1'8's with good tyres and wouldn't mind if you could photoshop em onto my car gaulson ? As I wouldn't mind a try before you buy pic if possible [emoji6]

although japspeed are at the cheaper end of the scale they do tend to get good reviews . Failing that try looking for a second hand hdi or autobahn fmic as they will slightly out perform the Japspeed and cost a bit less than a new one

mines a bit like a life sized airfix model (some assembly required) [emoji4]

Early classics are probably the lightest not just the ra (rust altered) versions [emoji5] due to having a lot off ally bits (bonnet , wish bones ect) and no abs or air bags . My v1 sti was 1220 kg with 280 bhp and a close ratio jdm box out of the factory I'd imagine it would have been a contender for one of the quickest standard scoobs ...... Plus it's silver lol

Had my depo fitted for 3yrs or so without any problems . I'd love a toucan touch screen or defis but the depo's not broke so I'll spend the extra £'s elsewhere instead

Markicp on ebay will have the genuine gaskets your after . Left hand gasket ,right hand gasket ,4× spark plug gaskets ,4× half moons and some 3 bond sealant (to smear on the moons and faces ) You will loose a little bit of oil and it might be worth doing the spark plugs and making sure you've got a decent 3/4G drive socket set [emoji6]

Loving the old school beemer to bud [emoji106] Nearly bought a dolphin grey 325iM sport years ago it had mint mechanicals and black leather interior but the rear arches were shot to !Removed! [emoji20]

Looks much better nice work

Really rusty looking ones go faster

Will admit it's a shame that even new age sti's are worth more in bits I've broken 3 pre 98 classics in 2 years , 2 eaten by tin worm and 1 with a break in the loom somewhere (they were beyond economical repair) Chuck a thread up with your issues/details and what makes you think the engine's fooked they're might be someone who is near you to help out as there's a few garages that are members on here

Hi n welcome , Lovely looking wagon Gary [emoji106] How long have you had it and what have you done to it ,fella ?

Cheers chaps [emoji106] Didn't get much myself , cos most of it was spent on the scoob [emoji6] I did get a bit spannered though time to pass out methinks[emoji40] [emoji51]

Has yours been mapped dino ? Mine still needs a tweek due to a new induction set up but here's my afr at 3 different boost settings Needs a trim but they're all in the ballpark at full throttle under load on the dyno but I'm unsure what adjustments the tps has made to the afr is at different throttle positions as I didn't get a printout for those

Yeah i Think the ideal afr is around 11 which is fairly lean in comparison to most other cars . I'd imagine that the cold start part of the map is set leaner (hotter) to warm up the engine to ideal running temp quicker . it would probably help lessen coking up the bores with over fuelling off boost. As ideally you should be off boost till it's warm and cool it down before switching it off