savage bulldogs

I agree with matt I'm afraid it's far to much effort and the insurance would be more expensive than just buying a turbo version in the first place . It can be done but you'd need a complete donor wagon for parts . Ecu Loom Struts Arbs Drivetrain Brakes Engine and auxiliaries . And plenty of free time and space . If you can afford to insure a turbo why not just buy one and fit the good bits off the sport [emoji6]

Picked up a ally preface bonnet , dunno if it will ever get fitted but it's proppa light you can literally pick it up with 1 finger [emoji41]

Cheers nevell [emoji106] When I stripped the cdb I used auto glym machine cleaner and a brush , it all went through the engineers hot wash after the machine work . So fairly clean to start with but the painted bits just get a wipe with a cloth . Ally gets a bit of autosol 3 times a year Black plastic and pipes get wiped with the rag I use to check the oil level Although the Engines done just over 8k now I used all new gaskets it doesn't leak anywhere so it's only road grime and dust I'm wiping off anyways . Don't get me wrong the engine isn't mint (couple of bits of chipped paint) and neithers the 21 year old bodywork thats been bleached by the rising sun [emoji5]

The uk used to over steer with or without power if you chucked it into a corner with standard set up [emoji19] now the lighter sti's back end will step out at first with out power [emoji41] but catch the sweet spot as you exit the corner and all 4 light up [emoji33] [emoji90] [emoji158] [emoji12] Mind you it's lighter than the standard uk was, has a extra 100+ ponies and some aftermarket goodies .... elbaich pro springs Whiteline arb and droplinks Front and back strutt braces Whiteline roll centre correction kit I've got a cusco h brace but haven't decided if I need to fit a anti lift kit as well [emoji5]

Are you sure it's a pink box exedy classic steve ? As if so they cost about £280 so it's a good price all in I think subaru fit standard exedy from the factory and although slightly cheaper they'll still handle just over 300hp . Either way it's a dam site cheaper than the £1200 + someone got quoted from a main stealer last year on here

A pic would be ideal as the vacuum system is fairly complicated and differs with each version . It does sound like it's in the fuel vapour canister area . Can you see it in this pic if you zoom in ? The canister is the round cylinder bottom left (as you stand in front of the engine bay) with 3 vacuum lines on top

When i first fitted it i noticed a difference as it seemed to have more over steer (kick the back end out first) rather than the understeer it had with the factory arb's and droplinks. since the v1 been back on the road I haven't had it geo'd yet[emoji51] but I want to get some rear camber bolts and when I do I'll ask for a oversteer fast road type set up [emoji6]

Lightened flywheels are supposed to increase throttle response but when fitted to GM na v6's they've been known to loose torque , possibly due to having less mass when moving . Whether the same applies for turbo'd cars I couldn't tell you . I've never had a lightened flywheel fitted on either of my scoobs I just had the standard flywheel skimmed,to insure it's 100% flat and reduce the chance of clutch judder .

Think it's a 22mm [emoji4] it's definitely stiffer than the standard one but it's not the biggest one whiteline do , as if you fit the biggest one you have to upgrade the front arb to a 21mm (from the standard 19mm ) to even things up [emoji6]

Yeah my old uk's been raped and pillaged [emoji20] The arb brackets are the original ones off the v1sti sanded back , zinc primed and coated in good old hammerite whilst the shell was off the road last year [emoji6]

Well I haven't updated my thread for a while but have been busy when the weather's not stopped play [emoji19] Parked the scoob on some long wet grass while taking my daughter footy practice the heat wrapped headers soaked up the moisture nicely , well good enough to turn the engine bay into a sauna and steam the maf to death [emoji19] Luckly enough Had a spare in the man cave and once fitted it was running fine [emoji4] Next up I'd gone for a slightly heavier (when cold) oil to try to quieten my race spec pistons all it did was increase the oil pressure by 1 bar [emoji51] So I've reverted back to the 10w 60 millers nano drive oil The flipped inlet was a last minute idea and I'd managed to do it cheaply (£220) including second hand inlet /alternator relocation brackets , paint , gaskets ,90° ash boost hose and a hack saw . it looks purdy but some of the ally pipework hasn't got the rib on the end that the clamp fits in to stop the hoses blowing off . So I've ordered a few more bit's from a.s.h to tidy things up the weather's been quite good this weekend so I thought I'd jet wash under the arches to see if my winter prep had held up Finally I managed to fit the rear spats to match the fronts stripped the winter wash n wax off with some autoglym shampoo and gave her the first coat of polish of the year .

Here's a diagram of the basic vac lines but It doesn't include all of them (ie charcoal canister ect )

Could you post a pic of which pipe isn't connected and someone might know where it goes .

Hi and welcome Duncan You also esl'd and mafles mapped my silver 97 uk turbo a few years back . haven't seen you since the s.c rr day at attowes hope you're keeping well Are you entering T.A or totb this year ?

No problem we like to help out if possible[emoji106] It might have just been the gauze filter between the icv and inlet as that is a separate item that sometimes falls out on removal . As with anything I remove a normally use a new gasket on assembly . One of the Cheapest places for genuine good quality gaskets is Importcarparts websites worth a look to familiarise yourself with your version/phase as well [emoji6]

Do you mean icv (idle control valve) as sometimes a clean and a code reset can improve things . First level of induction tune would be a panel filter and resonator delete . You remove the plastic "u" bend from under the arch liner , so it then draws cold air from under the inner wing through the free flowing panel filter

Hi and welcome to soc and glad to hear you've saved s early classic . When looking for Parts for the engine it's described as a V1 /v2 with a phase 1 inlet/fuel set up . A throttle body coolant by pass is a mod a lot of people do to stop warm coolant heating the intake air as it passes through the throttle body when the engines up to normal running temperature . So I'd just join the flow and return pipes together unless you live somewhere really cold all the time Have you done a classic self code check by plugging the connections together under the dash ?

Here you go bud It's my old 97 uk turbo

Give me 30 mins and I'll take some fella [emoji106]

I've got a sub frame, links ect but I'm in Suffolk . It's quite rusty and still on the shell but if you can be arsed to come to me and remove it you can have the whole thing for a score [emoji6]

Miles from me (im in suffolk)so can't help with your area myself, hopefully someone else will know Can't really see a issue in your pic but pics are discecptive , here's one of the same area on my 97uk (I can't see much difference ) Have you tried levering the bushes/mountings to check for play Or take some crude measurements from bush bolt to bottom balljoint and check against the other side

Sorry to hear about uou hitting a kurb I'd get it looked at by sombody who can confirm exactly whats broken before buying to many bits bud . I'd suggest to get sombody to check the car over properly before driving it again . Where abouts are you as one of the members might be able to recommend someone in your area . Unfortunately quite a few classics are getting broken due to age and standard parts are fairly cheap . I've been breaking a 97 uk turbo that was eaten by rust myself [emoji53] Still got a few bits left on it but no struts unfortunately.

Let me know how much posted and pm me your paypal addy matt. I'll gift over the funds over a bit later tonight

Err.... umm ....... yeah stants I'm sure I agreed to no major surgery [emoji55] And minor tweaks are in the small print anyways [emoji39]

Today I be mostly pulling the scoob to bit's (again lol) to work out what bits i need to neaten up the fmic pipework