savage bulldogs

I don't know much about the new sti's spec but has it got a equal length exhaust manifold? As they fitted equal length manifolds to a certain year of jdm blob eyes and they lost all of the "scooby burble" and sounded like a (normal) inline 4 cylinder set up. Cos it's the exhaust gasses hitting each other in the unequal headers that cause the burble not the flat 4 configuration [emoji6]

I've only ever bought one item of them to be honest a classic sports cat and I found it to be well made and a good fit. is it volume , tone or type of sound your after improving ?

Payment received with thanks[emoji106] I'll let you know a eta once I get it posted[emoji6]

Ok joe I'll let you know when I get home if the payment gone through and once it's posted I'll pm you a eta , bud

I've pm'd you my pay pal addy the best way I can think of being fair is for me to send it and if it doesn't work send it back and I'll refund you £30 (other £5 covers postage my end) . Worst case scenario is we're a fiver down each . All the best clive

Sorry stants I forgot you'd asked me a question [emoji5] no mate, one owner in Japan and I'm the 4th owner in the UK . I do like the idea of having it (at least) looking standard as it's a 20 yr old car with a few tweaks but I quite like the look of it atm, so still a bit unsure whether to preface it or not [emoji15]

I think cobra sports are in Sheffield I'm fairly sure they make custom stuff too

Sorry joe I forgot I'd posted on here . I don't really like selling things I can't vouch 100% for and it's been sat for at least 18 months . If you're really stuck and can't find one elsewhere I can chuck mine in the post for £35

Think there's a "how 2 " sticky thread on s.c in tech section for fitting a oil pressure gauge . Although it's for newage it's probably a bit more explanatory than my ramblings and 2 dodgy pics [emoji5] Glad you've sussed it bud [emoji106]

Were the fogs working with just the boost gauge connected ? I'd disconnect the other gauges and double check any fuses starting with 10 amp (normally red) preferably switch each fuse with a spare good fuse of the same ampage or check current passes through them with the multi meter (as visually it's sometimes hard to spot a break) As it sounds like you've earthed something out mate , Cos if that circuit is designed to light two big fogs and a ciggy lighter couple of gauge lights shouldn't blow the fuse .

Sorry to hear that the rot has set in so deep and cutting your losses might be the best call [emoji20] But at least it sounds like you're sticking with subaru [emoji6]

Do the fogs only work with the main lights on ? my scoob hasn't got any fogs so i don't know but my vans fogs don't work with just the sidelights you have to have the headlights on

I would've thought so as the ciggy lighter would have a higher rate fuse in it's circuit . I haven't had any issues with mine but I've only got one gauge running. Keep a spare fuse or two in the glove box or Just don't use your ciggy lighter at night[emoji39] Sounds like they're electronic sensors by the description, I didn't take any specific pics when I fitted my sensors First pic shows oe oil pressure sensor and bung for oil temp The oil pressure is behind the alternator (on cars without ac) just remove the belt ,loosen the alternator and swing it out of the way . Remove the plug and undo the top brass bit (not the nut with the hole in) fit the new sensor and run the wires back to the gauge . You can just see the silver oil temp bung behind the black pipe and gold vertical bolt in first pic . The bung is a pita to get out so removing as much as possible to gain better access is best ,Mabey do this when you upgrade your turbo as most of the bits will be out of the way [emoji6] Second pic shows both electric sensors fitted but note the brass bung with the hole in (from stants kit) is fitted first and the electronic temp sensor (with a white wire attached to it ) is fitted into the brass bung with the hole in Dunno if that makes sense but best of luck bud [emoji4]

Can't say from personal experience as I've never used boost unless my car has been mapped for it's current set up. Apart from during mapping sessions then they'll normally turn the boost down to get the fuelling right, before feeding the boost back in then it normally comes in a bit sooner with a bigger punch [emoji12] I don't know much about matching upipe sizes to headers and turbo inlets tbh , so can't tell you the right bore size upipe. I do know gas flow and pressure have a fairly big affect on spool / power my classic with Toyosports headers and bigger bore upipe made 307 hp 260 flb mapped Switched to gruppe headers with smaller bore 3 bolt upipe 347hp 330flb Same car , no other mods , same mapper and same dyno it also hit 1bar @ 700 rpm sooner.

If it's the same turbo it could be a gasket leaking or the aftermarket upipe bore size difference . As if they're to big it can make the turbo spool later due to a drop in exhaust gas pressure . Might be able to lessen the lag once mapped in to allow for the freeer flowing de catted upipe

Just read the first post and the bit about tax band being sorted by co2 emissions isn't entirely accurate (unfortunately) As I bought a 05 plate 1300 cdti van for work 3 yrs ago as i thought it cheap on fuel and tax . First time I taxed it got charged over £200 for the year [emoji15] A mate of mine also has a 04 plate 1300 cdti only got charged £125 for the year even though they've got the same engine [emoji53] Apparently my van can carry 2 tonne (gross weight) and his is only 1700 (gross weight) , so even with the same c02 emissions it's a different "gross weight" taxation class. So my 80 hp diesel van costs about £20 less to tax than my £330 hp v powered classic

think the joiners are called "scotch blocks" normally blue in colour . Do you know if the oil temp gauge is electrical ir mechanical ? Does it have wires on the oil temp sender (bit that goes in the bung with a hole in) Or do you have a pipe that has to go all the way from oil temp sender to oil temp gauge ? Have you got 3 other wires the same on all gauges ? If so think they should be Earth... either fit this to a earthed bit of metal behind the dash or scotch block it to another earth Live ... find something that only works with the ignition (ciggy lighter ) on and "scotch" into that Lights .... "scotch" into something that only works when you turn the lights on . On my preface classics I used the light around the ciggy lighter . If you get stuck stu give me a text bud

Yeah that's for the sti's to attach their factory fitted boost gauge [emoji6] You should be able to take a ignition live from the back of the ciggy lighter and the "lights on" power from the light on the ashtray/ciggy lighter suround

Yeah my old v3 uk had preface dash , clocks and bumper with facelift bonnet lights n grill . Think the v4 has the preface bumper as well and it was v5 onwards that had full facelift with new grill and bumper[emoji6] The fugly (fooking ugly) steering wheel on my v3 was one of the first things that got upgraded [emoji4]

Thats a V4 uk turbo interior [emoji6]

Original genuine subaru gaskets should be fine as your headder outlet and turbo inlet will be stock size . my brv used to have a cheap upipe that would only seal if you put 2 gaskets in , even then it would blow the guts out of the gaskets after a few months [emoji53] But he was running 1.2 bar

Ipswich , so a fair way away I would sell it to you as it worked fine when I disconnected it but it's been in a plastic bag in the shed for about a year .

My 97 uk turbo ran a purple label maff I've got a spare where abouts are you cos you're welcome to try it if suffolk isn't to far away

Duncan Grahames website is called "race dynamics " He fitted and mapped my original v3 esl

Wouldn't like to say if would need re bleeding ,I've never had a airlock and my engine's been in and out 6 times But a lot of people do seem to have problems with airlocks . I'd be tempted to make 100% sure the join is the culprit . release the jubilee clip at the offending end and move it clear of the leak .dry the area with kitchen towels . As the plastic take off on classic rads tend to crack or the jubilee clip sits it can wear the hose . And yeah They do get a bit of "fury !Removed!" around the joins of the rad to ally block coolant pipes, so it could well be the issue