savage bulldogs

Wondered if you'd sold up, bud [emoji53] Glad to hear you've stuck with the scoob and been quite busy too by the look of things [emoji106]

I just don't like people who swerve from lane to lane abruptly without indicating . Not using slip lanes properly and driving to slow to merge with the traffic , or darting across the chevrons too early and cutting eveyone else up on the carriageway they're joining . They Seem to have a Blatant disregard for anyone else on the road , dunno about all beemers and audi driver's but I quite like the vag/audi cars and old school beemers [emoji41] . Just the spiky haired 330 yobs and middle aged business men in their torque'y derv company cars tailgating you whilst they're having a shave [emoji36] Should have put this on the rant thread [emoji39]

Well I've plastered my last wall till next year and home by midday [emoji41] So Thought I'd take the scoob out for a spin before the mrs gets home with a big list of "things to do"[emoji22] once warmed up I headed for the carriage way only to be cut up by a 330 beemer swerving in front of me twice within half a mile without indicating [emoji36] [emoji34] [emoji35] Pulled into the shell garage to see mr **** at the opposite pump . "Indicators a optional extra on that beemer ?" I said to him . "Ain't my fault if that old scoob can't keep up " he says with the passenger smiling . "Ain't my fault you got your !Removed! licence outta a Christmas cracker you *****" I replied So sat there idling untill he was ready to pull out of the petrol station behind me, let him swerve out into the outside lane (no indication again) and soon as he and his smiling passenger was along side me .... Gave them the 1 finger salute and buried my foot into the carpet and left him for dust sitting in the outside lane . the scoob pulled really hard and I made mincemeat of the beemer but I assumed it was the cold air . I checked the apexi hand controller peak readouts when I got back . 1.36 bar of boost [emoji12] no wonder it felt quick [emoji1] it's only been set at 1.1 bar (330hp) so guess I've got to find out why she's overboosting even though I quite enjoyed the extra 0.2 bar [emoji5]

With my old autowatch alarm system .... Valet ment the hidden switch didn't have to be pressed , you just have to press the fob to turn the alarm off (no point having a hidden switch if you have to tell everyone where it is) Passive ,was sensors off but hidden switch still had to be pressed in order to start the car . Maybe try each setting sitting in the car and see if it goes off with movement to be 100% sure just in case makes and models differ

Shame you've not got a preface interior cos you could've had the plastics/dash outta the uk to paint Dunno if the other plastics ( A and B post kick pannels ect ...) are the same but if you can be bothered to come down and take em off you can have em [emoji6]

It looked like a light stain with a few bubbles I just gave it a light poke with the blunt end of a spanner . Even though I regularly jet wash under the arches It's a common spot on classics and some newage. Mud builds up between the bodywork and the top of the rear strutt , traps water and the rot sets in . I'm still picking the "bones" off the uk swopping trim bits , removing spare parts . Spring time I'll have a good sort out box up what I'm keeping , sell what im not and scrap the rest . To clear space and kick start the fund for next year's "tweeks" [emoji39]

V3 looks a bit sorry for itself in the first pic . But I poked the top of the rear strutt with the ring end of my spoiler swapping spanner and the result is in the second pic[emoji33] Reshell'd just in time methinks [emoji6]

back to oe

Well I finished work early today so decided to switch spoilers as the aftermarket spoiler on the sti needs a coat of paint and it obscured the rear view mirror to much . euro look anyone ?

In build threads here's a link http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/3094-a-few-pics-of-my-project-so-far Dunno if it will work lol

Heads have to come off to get to the block bolts to split it and the pistons have to be removed before the block can be split . Have a look at my build thread it's a classic but there's a few pics and links to a pdf manual [emoji6]

Hi and welcome , glad you're enjoying the scoob [emoji106] I've got a few mates into their vag stuff and although they like the look of my flat 4 they recon it should be in the back [emoji39]

The vf is a roller bearing core turbo so costs more to manufacture and spools quicker . The tdo5 16g is journal core so spools up slightly slower but holds boost a bit better higher in the rev range (doesn't tail off as much) genuine tdo5 16g are getting on a bit but are a bit stronger and cheaper to rebuild due to not having a roller core . I've settled for a tdo5 for now (until I can afford a 400hp ish turbo) as they're cheap and with supporting mods will just about break the 350 hp mark. Don't think my next turbo will be a td series though as I'd need a 20g to get close to 400hp .Then even with a "trick" upipe would be far to laggy on my 2ltr for a road car .

I've got duncans mobile number if you need it , have you tried bob rawl he's quite respected too

Unsure about what type of valve you need but the engine in the first pic is a v1/v2 with a phase 1 inlet set up . So ask the seller if it's compatible

No it's a engine out job im afraid . As the block halves have to be split to get to the shells/crank

Try resetting the ecu , turn the alarm off and disconnecting the battery earth for about 10 mins , as it might still be compensating for a faulty code . As gambit said check for leaks in boost and vacuum pipes . spray brake cleaner around any pipework that's got a vacuum (suck side of the turbo ect...) and the idle will rise if it sucks in the cleaner [emoji6] And soapy solution around the pipework with positive pressure , you'll see bubbles if it's leaking . Leads and plugs might be worth a shout if you don't know when they were last changed . Glad the maf made a bit of difference and best of luck bud [emoji106]

someone who knows a bit more about mapping might well disagree, I'm just unsure how much the ecu is capable of adjusting the fueling and timing to keep things running safely . what year uk turbo is it ?

It's difficult to answer why the boost pressure has decreased because it's possible the dump valve might have been leaking giving you false readings of 1.3 bar in the first place. I would be a bit dubious of upping the boost as the original remap fueling was set up to dump intake air and now that air is still in the system with the dumpvalve blanked . Maybe check what ecu ,board or software it's running and arrange a map tweek with a mapper that deals with your ecu at local dyno . Would be cheaper in the long run , as if you get it wrong rebuilds ain't to cheap [emoji6]

I didn't think that changing the centre section 0.5" in dia would've made so much difference as I thought that the 2.5" system didn't restrict until 400hp . What type of mappable ecu are you running ? If they disconnected the battery could it have switched to a low boost map ? Is there any change in spool, does it hit 1 bar any later ?

there's not much difference in the power output / performance between the bug sti and 2ltr blobeye sti they both have a stronger 6 speed gearbox and r180 hub/ brake set up too ,I'm unsure what models have dccd though. Jdm versions will have shorter gearbox ratio's and some of the later jdm blob sti's have equal length headers (no burble) and possibly better pistons/rods . with the right wheels and detangoed lights I like most things scooby [emoji4]

I'm unsure about the compatibility tbh but if ever I need to find out if somethings compatible I cross reference the part numbers on a online subaru parts site (like importcarparts) [emoji6]

I run elbach pro springs with the standard uk turbo strutts they're progressive rate , so not too stiff on the straight but stiffen up under load (in the corners) Think they lower the uk turbo and wrx 30 mm to the height of a standard sti Pic of mine

Sorry stants the original ones that held them on my uk turbo looked like twiglets (rusty as fook ) and I stripped the threads taking them off [emoji55] Glad they've cured your front end "twang" [emoji6] I bought them for the same reason and once fitted swear they made a difference to the "turn in" body roll

Most mappers up the boost during a remap so if it's running stock boost it's probably not been remapped already. If it's got a standard ecu the most common software used on a blobeye would be ecutek so if it has been mapped you should have paperwork , as you need to buy a ecutek "licence" in order to use their software to change the parameters on the standard ecu . I'm not a fan of manual boost controllers unless set up by the mapper whilst he's tweeking the fuelling , ignition timing and wastegate control during a remap . Even then I wouldn't use the controller to turn the boost up (as it would be set up for max safe boost during the remap ) But just to turn the boost down for every day /long distance driving . Imo get a few mods together and fit those just before you're booked in for a remap