savage bulldogs

I'm sure I could think of a couple of bit's off my scoob you can practice on , if you want I'll chuck em in the post matt Come to think of it I've always fancied a arden blue classic with white rims [emoji4]

My uk tended to understeer I found that I had to feather the "sweet spot" and hit the power as I exited .to be honest I just assumed it was a 4wd trait . Untill i read somewhere that they set them up that way from the factory , cos understeer is deemed to be easier to get out of. I'm now running wide offset wheels, elbach springs with whiteline adjustable arb, droplinks and roll center correction kit . It tends to 4w drift now but ideally I'd like a bit of oversteer so might look at getting some camber bolts and the prodrive geo set done .

I'd imagine so as they're probably a bit heavier than a impreza . the impreza sti's had 4 pots from 97 onwards and (I think) all turbo impreza's from 98 onwards . Quality pads and discs make a fair difference too but soon after my first road map (from 212 hp to 265hp ) I'd had a few [emoji90] [emoji158] moment's with the impreza 2 pots and happy shopper discs n pads the car came with [emoji6]

Makes sence not to have the injectors if you're not aiming to break the 300 hp barrier atm [emoji6] You'll be well chuffed with the difference a remap makes anyways [emoji41] Has your foz got 4 pots ? If not you'd be probably better off saving your cash for some better anchors to reign in the extra ponies [emoji4]

I was told the sti tmic flowed better but whether thats just because of the ally hard pipe and bigger bore y pipe or whether the core is different I don't know . Tbh I fitted it because i managed to "zorro" the fins on my uk turbo's tmic with the jet wash[emoji36] [emoji35] [emoji23] and I knew I could fit it without mapping . I've seen a graph for 305 hp with the 380cc but he'd upped the fuel pressure a lot and they were maxed out . Realistically about 290 hp on the 380's and 340 hp on the 440's as most mappers don't like upping the pressure on standard fuel rails , in case the pressure drops and you lean out or something leaks

Nice to see the dealer taking the time and explaining how they worked out their quote[emoji106] however I do think over £500 for parts is a bit steep as im sure 5 speed classics have a basic exedy clutch as standard(about £190 new). I bought a pink box exedy clutch kit (rated to 400hp ) for £280 . I don't dispute the amount of hours labour (took me longer to do on axle stands) and with a franchise/main dealer overheads you expect the hourly rate to be high to be honest . My local main dealer is a diamond even throws a bbq for the local subaru club with test drives and raffles , so I mean no disrespect, but Which ever way you look at it it's almost £1.5k to buy and fit a £200 clutch on a £3K car [emoji53] so unfortunately for you most people will choose the cheaper option if the cars not under warranty . All the best clive

£50 delivered or £90 delivered with the v3 sti tmic as well lol

Got some phase 1/1.5 440cc injectors which are a direct fit from v1 to v4 if you want to really treat yourself 

Yeah the rcm pump came with a sock and was just plug n play but the last walbro I bought had a much shorter sock (so I used the cars original one) and I had to splice the wires in the tank as the wires in the walbro box only had a plug one end . As for rcm give them a bell before lunch and the pump will probably be delivered tomorrow . Great service [emoji41]

No need to drain the tank just run it a bit low (under a quarter) Disconnect the battery earth Have plenty of rags ready as when you disconnect the fuel lines they'll be full of pressurised fuel . clean the area around the access hole before removing the hatch lid (so !Removed! don't drop in the tank). Carefully withdraw the complete fuel pump /gauge sender assembly and cover the hatch opening to stop fumes coming out and debris falling in. Fix the new pump to the sender assembly and once re fitted turn the ignition on and off a couple of times to prime the pump . Here's a few pics from when I fitted my last one

Think its about £500 for the premium with total value at £5k ish and 350 hp . I've never had a claim though , it's parked off road, bell'd up nicely and I only do sub 4k miles . I've spent so much time and effort rebuilding my car I drive like miss daisy ..... Well most of the time [emoji55]

Also depends on how long you've been driving a scoob and how many yrs no claims . As it cost me £200 more 3yrs ago to fully comp insure a standard uk turbo with a mainline insurance company . Now i fully comp insure a 300 +hp sti with "like for like" on £4k's worth of listed modified parts with adrain flux But I did hit 40 last year [emoji55] so probably get a coffin dodgers bonus [emoji4]

Far as I'm aware subarus "test" was to hit it with a dot punch in several places , if it didn't punch a hole it passed and if it did they replaced it free of charge I had a similar reply from my local Toyota dealers with my mum's car taken in for a steering recall and passed , month later the steering column fell of it's mountings whilst she was driving [emoji33] I kicked up a fuss about the potential injury or even fatality if she'd had been driving on the carriageway to no avail [emoji35] Threatened them with watchdog and probably due to another ongoing Toyota recall at the time, they repaired it for free

Before you take the pads out use them to gently ease the pistons back in to check nothings seized . Use something blunt and flat to make sure you don't score the disc or pad face . Hopefully a clean up and a bit of grease will sort it out

He comes across a bit grumpy (1st expression) but used to have a newage wrx as a daily driver and mapped it constantly during the 3 yrs he owned it. Think he normally charges a bit more but I've arranged a couple of rr days at his dyno and between me , my brv and a few mates have spent a fair bit of cash with him (he gets cheaper the more you used him ) Might be worth mentioning me "clive with the silver self build classic " before you ask for a quote [emoji6]

£200 inc dyno (about 2.5 hrs)

Cat back , pannel filter and a remap would be my choice [emoji6]

I thought it might be the same pipework ect I had to cut a lot of the back of the bumper out to get it to fit over the core . My first attempt looked like swarez had nibbled his way through it [emoji55]

No rick I sold my v3 esl for £250 a while back . Clive attowe is in norfolk he has his own dyno cell and has been mapping for decades and won a few competitions in his time . http://www.enginetuning.net/ Mainly tweeks oil burners with good results for bread n butter now . he mapped my apexi recently and my brvs original v1sti set up (with good results)

Clive attowe would be worth a look in Norwich matt [emoji6]

Best of luck with the fmic fitting fella Is there more room behind the bumper on the foz Rick ? Cos it took me about 3hrs with a dremmel just to cut the back out of the bumper out on my classic [emoji53] Nice to meet you today stu [emoji106] Sorry the "parts store" looked more like a "shed load of !Removed!"[emoji5] As it's a rather untidy tardis atm cos most of the parts are in random boxes stacked high due to a busy autumn offensive on my scoob[emoji6] I guess you're steering wheel was on straight and you're air bag didn't go off at the first corner you come to then .... Unless they've got wifi in A&E [emoji39]

If the cars insured you can drive it to a mot station with out road tax or mot as long as it's booked in for the mot (although I don't think they like you to travel to far to the mot testing station) Once it's passed the mot you'll have to buy the road tax asap to avoid being fined for not having road tax .Although when you see the state of disrepair suffolk roads are in you'll wonder where our road tax money goes I think There's quite a few decat friendly mot stations about which will allow your scoob to pass as long as it's roadworthy and not got excessively high emissions on idle , but no one's likely to admit it on a public forum [emoji6]

Hi n welcome to soc nice original looking uk classic you've got there fella [emoji106] I used to have one of those but I think the only thing that remains of my original uk is the plastic bezel around the centre console now [emoji5]

The Stock cooler with a mahle oil filter doesn't stick out past the headers or sump but it sounds like you're not after a stock application . I have seen a impreza with a oil filter relocation kit (somwhere on the net). But can't think where unfortunately . I'm not keen on the sandwich plate design myself so fitted my oil temp sensor in the bung over cylinder number 3 but that was also because thats the hottest cylinder . I did do some research into oil coolers and decided I wouldn't need one unless I did regular track days as my average oil running temp is 95°

I've always assumed that they are bungs for access for internal machine work but I've never taken a oil pump appart tbh . I think most aftermarket subaru specific oil coolers come with a "sandwich plate" that replaces the factory oil cooler (the bit the oil filter screws to) which has feeds to the bigger front mounted oil cooler.