savage bulldogs

Nice work matt [emoji106] Sounds like you're gonna need a bit extra cash ...... To feed the chickens and goat[emoji39]

Finally started breaking the v1 so I have a few bit's off it . Tein coilovers with spanners £220 sold Boost gauge and pillar pod £15 sold Uk 3.5.4 ratio 6 speed gearbox no whines or crunches with new prop/ driveshaft seals fitted 1.5 k ago . Just the box £1350 sold Box + cradle , linkage and prop .basically everything needed to into a uk ratio classic/ newage .£1500 sold Autobahn fmic and classic fitment pipework £150 SOLD 4pot front calipers (refurbished with ss pistons and new seals) Discs and kevlar fast road pads (1.5k mls) £150 SOLD Whiteline arb and rear whiteline pigtail droplinks £120 5 speed exedy pink box anti judder stage 2 clutches (£280 new rated to 400hp) both clutches have only seen just under 2k mls so have barely been worn in, both have with skimmed standard flywheel s with new centre spigot bearings included but, i will split the kits and flywheels if needed 1 kit with thrust race bearing missing £140 1 complete kit £190 SOLD Toyosports 3" decat turbo back slight scrapes on centre resonator box but doesn't affect performance /sound £130 SOLD v3/v4 sti tmic £40 standard facelift head lights £15 facelift crystal head lights £50 facelift crystal spotlights £30 facelift crystal indicators £10 facelift crystal side repeaters £7 Classic sti carbon fibre front strutt brace £80 here's a few bit's that will be for sale once I've fitted my engine/running gear early October (hopefully) Full v3 uk interior vgc with no rips/burns ect Includes front and rear seats and door cards £60 17" speedline chronos with kumho tyres they could do with a refurb and tyres are good 6mm appart from a bit of "roundabout scrub" £150 powder coated blue v3 / v4 inlet manifold, intake pipe,throttle body, coilpack , leads engine loom ect.... basically everything needed (apart from injectors and header tank) to just bolt it on and tidy up your bay £160 Front ally droplinks to suit steel arms £20 All prices are based on collection from Ipswich Suffolk . I'll add more to the list as I find it and pics on request Cheers clive

you can buy tmic mesh to protect the fins and make it look neater . Im unsure if the under tray (seal under the scoop) is a different size on the uk to sti on the v5/v6 . So some of the listings might mention "under trays " as well

My 99 to 00 v5/v6 sti is the direct fit intercooler , bud. Sti y pipework is mostly solid ally (less prone to cracking /better flowing) . Hence why most people upgrade those at the same time and mention them in their adds [emoji6]

Welcome back bud If you don't find em drop me a pm , cos I've got a set of 440's which were flow matched by lateral 1.5k ago and a good working walbro for sale out of my phase 1 v1sti

Went outside to clear the drain channels on the shell .... ended up spending 5 hrs cleaning under the bonnet with a toothbrush [emoji5]

Now the v1 sti's engine's been re home'd t thought id remove both wings and the scuttle pannel to make sure the drain channels were clear . got a bit sidetracked and 5 hours , 2 toothbrushes and half a bottle of machine cleaner later Just need to find a product to seal the paintwork that can be sprayed on . as I don't fancy waxing and having to buff it off .

There's a bit of info on this thread http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6050-More-boost!-disappointment/slight-happiness... about the location of the restrictor pill and sizes needed for different classics

Your welcome mate[emoji106] No problem about the speedo sensor ,I only wanted a spare in case I broke mine on removal glad it all come together and your happy with the end results [emoji41]

Sold deposit taken Thanks for all the input and interest [emoji106]

Could try checking Exhaust mounts (give it a shake) Rear droplinks (wear/ play in the bushes) and rear shocks (prone to failure on the blobeye I think) Play in the rear wheels Does it do it over bumps or corners as well ?

Just wondering if anyone has cleaned the underside of a motor and if so what they used to clean and seal it afterwards. Ideally I'd like something to just last the comming winter months. As I intend on prepping painting and polly bushing most moving parts at some point . Thanks in advance Clive

Looks loads better , nice choice [emoji106]

Cheers chap much appreciated  I've got to retro fit a mechanical speedo sensor into a 6speed soon [emoji6]

Nice to have you back adam [emoji41] Yeah I've done loads of research on the v1 sti's and my brv has owned this one for the last 3yrs . Unfortunately we broke one a while back with shoddy arches and a break in the loom (causing a intermittent fault) and that's where the engine in my v3 came from. If I hadn't have spent a lot of time and effort rebuilding my cdb I would have kept the engine in the scoob to try to keep it original as possible. I know the engine's quite old but , I'm sure the first person to hear it run will buy it as it's a sweet lump running good safe power @1.2 bar

Looks like the crack in the plug was the issue then [emoji6] Couldn't tell you the exact plug part number I use im afraid , I just know them as ngk heat 7's . Glad you've got it running right now though stu [emoji106]

I'd recommend to any one who's got the dsr wheel of to give that area a clean as well as the back of the inner arches . They've completely disintegrated on my uk [emoji19] and that was clean when I bought it 3yrs ago

I think most people run ngk7's gapped at 0.7 We're any of the plugs a slightly different colour ? If one was blacker it might indicate a misfire on a individual cylinder . Did you check for cracks in the porcelain on the plugs ? It will throw maff and (normally) map sensor code as well if there's a leak between maf (filter) and map (inlet manifold) sensors . You could try putting soapy water around the joins in the pipes and look for bubbles to indicate air leaks to eliminate that . Tbo you've checked most of the things I would have started with . Mabye nip to attowes rolling road (norwich) and get a dyno done , as he'd probably be able to diagnose the fault and you'd know if it was running safe .

I've been stripping the shell down a bit more today in order to get to the main areas that are prone to rust on classics . Bottom of the wing/ sill Rear arches/bumper bar Although the shell is uber clean for it's age ,I wanted to try to protect the underside while having it off the road . what few bit's of surface rust I found (after a clean up ) I sanded , treated and primed ready for stone chip and paint . Before After Unfortunately I won't be able to paint the arches yet ,till the engine's gone as I want some weight out of the car before I remove the coilovers. I did remove the fuel filler neck plastic cover whilst cleaning and was surprised to see how much dirt was wedged in it . No wonder my uk fuel filler neck rusted through and left trails of v power behind me like back 2 the future [emoji4] as the plastic guard fills with dirt and traps moisture rotting the neck .

Did you reset the codes before fitting the new maff ? As the ecu would probably still be compensating for faulty one

Hi Darren how's the box conversion going ? I've found myself in need of a early mechanical speedo sensor and wondered if the one out of the jdm box was any good (as they sometimes snap upon removal) If so how much do you want for it ? Best of luck Clive

I let my oil temp get to at least 70° before using boost . so I've never experienced under performance while cold , but I do get a bit of "hunting" until it's warm enough to shut off the high idle . I am running maffless though and can't remember what it was like when standard Mabye try cleaning the idle control valve or chucking in a new set of spark plugs / service.

sorry bud I thought you were in norfolk [emoji4] At least my cow in a bag was made into sausages, burgers n steaks [emoji39] What year is the new scoob ?

I've seen just the block halves go for £400 and this being a sti cdb long engine will have underbore oil squirters , forged pistons and sti cams . I'll try to sort a video link once it goes on ebay but , here's the rr graph from attowes for now

Quality[emoji5] The crash at the beginning made me grin as well