savage bulldogs

recirc metal pipe and both hoses either end can be removed , just make sure you bung the hole in the turbo inlet pipe where the recirc pipe used to go . then fit the dump valve to the tmic and the vac line to the top of the dump valve , im just unsure if you need a conversion plate to fit the dump valve to the tmic

The phase1.5 has vac hard lines (smaller bore metal pipes ) attached to the same bracket the recirc pipe , so most people leave those on the earlier versions . If yours are on separate brackets I'd have thought you can remove the recirc pipe and bung the "s" shape hose attached to the turbo intake pipe (where the recirc'd air would go ) . Think the newage hoses people are mentioning are probably the y pipes underneath , but I've never done the conversion myself so hopefully someone else knows a bit more

On the phase 1.5 inlet the bigger bore metal pipe underneath the throttle body entrance (sprayed pink in your pics) has to be blanked off . Otherwise it would leave a opening in the intake pipe . I think in the forge dumpvalve kit you get a bung (for the intake pipe) and a plate to fit the dumpvalve directly to the tmic . maybe look for a newage recirc gasket (if they do them ) and see if it lines up with the back of the dumpvalve .

Looks sweet fella , nice choice [emoji106]

Wouldn't work through the mobile version of the site , but went through fine on the full site

Having the same problem with both links[emoji15] I'll have another go when I get home on wifi, as the mobile reception is a bit hit n miss where im working today so it might be a fault at my end .

97 / 98 , v3/v4 ecu's can have a esl daughter board fitted which allows you to map the standard ecu (looks oe on the outside) .so the best way to tell what injectors you need is by colour grey's are 380cc Yellows are 440cc (your's should have greys as standard) Just make sure that if there greys that the replacements you buy are v3 / v4 (phase1.5 ) fitment .

Tbo the last 3 times simon's been to tweek my map he hasn't been able to finish the job [emoji36] even though it's been due to no fault of his own ,he hasn't charged me a penny [emoji56] But hey I bet we'd all I'd love a shell nitro discount card [emoji4] Nice work then gambit [emoji106] I think they should double your salary for all your hard work..... and yes I know 2 x 0 = 0 lol

Nice work admin looks like were getting quite a few companies to give the club a discount [emoji106] Have a word with shell and jgm while your at it as a discount with them would save me a fortune [emoji4]

Think my walbro failed after 2yrs/8k miles so I fitted the rcm pump (much quieter ) Heres a Couple of pointers for fitting a fuel pump on a classic , might help once you've decided which one to get Make sure you clean/hover around the area before you remove the cover plate and sender unit . To minimise the chance of crap dropping in the tank . Looking through the boot on my 97 uk turbo with the seats folded down shows the location . The fuel lines will be pressurised so have plenty of rag to hand when disconnecting them . unplug and withdraw the complete sender unit/ fuel pump cradle and cover the hole in the tank. while you switch your new pump into the cradle be careful not to bend the fuel gauge sender. the walbro wiring kit only had one plug so I had to cut the existing wires and and join them . Seeing as their "in tank" I cut them different lengths (so they could never touch) soldered them together and shrink wrapped them . took about a hour

Last time I saw simon's beasty it was a 6 cylinder legacy boxer engine bored out to 3.3 ltr with 2 sc42's strapped to it running syvecs with a custom loom [emoji41] But i think it's running a couple of garrets now [emoji33]

You'll have to let me know if your either near me or at attowes and I'll pop in one evening [emoji6] I've fitted the rcm fuel pump and new filter and I desperately miss that extra boost I used to have in my life [emoji4]

I'd recommend simon [emoji106] and definitely use him again .... Well I would if I could squeeze a day of work [emoji19]

Nice pics [emoji106] of some quality motor's Hmmm 22b [emoji39]

Anti lag basically causes explosions in the headers, increasing the speed of the exhaust gasses causing the turbo to spool sooner than it would usually. Pro's Sounds awesome and hey it spools your turbo earlier[emoji41] Cons Puts added heat / stress on headers , upipe , turbo and drivetrain (when you launch it)

Very nice ,you don't see many early preface classics that are that tidy [emoji106]

Take the passenger foot well carpet up and remove the kick pannel to reveal the ecu , it should have a sticker with the ecu code on . The z4 ecu runs a slightly more aggressive map think it's 0.8 or 0.9 bar of boost and about 260 hp . As for the turbo it will have a id code on the inlet side tdo5 h ... But the code probably won't tell you if it's a hybrid unit . Unless it's a aftermarket turbo(andy forest ect ..) made that way from the factory . most hybrids are standard converted turbo's .So they will have the standard factory code stamped on them

Like the grill matt [emoji106] Been thinking about painting the surround of my grill black for a more aggressive look . Are you going to go for mega wide wheels ( like worbs) or spacers to fill the abws ?

the only mesh ones I know of that you can buy of the shelf attach to the slats (zun or zero sports I think) so you'll have to buy a sheet and cut the mesh yourself , neatest way to fix it would probably be to make some "L" shape brackets that sit behind the mesh and fix the mesh to them

As far as im aware 3 ports help hold boost better at the top end of the rev range and give the mapper better control over the boost in general . They definitely need to be mapped in so best fitted on the day of the remap , my mapper fitted mine in 5 mins (didn't even charge me for fitting or the vac hose he supplied) They don't seem to fail (very often) is it definitely boost creep and not overboosting due to having a decat or cone filter ? Have you checked your vac lines and "T" pieces ? Mabye get a second hand one to see if it cures it and then buy a new 3 port before you map [emoji6]

If you've got mods I'd say flux is a good option , cos my uk turbo is probably only worth £1200 book price :-( I Had a good 20 mins on the phone with them to go through my mods list and she's now insured for £5k + with like for like on all the parts If anything the premium went down as I suppose they now know how much time and money I've put into the car (so won't be driving like a **** )

No problem fella [emoji106] Easiest way to identify the early set up is that the V1& v2 have a top entry turbo (air intake runs over the inlet manifold) whereas all later subarus (96 onwards roughly) have front entry turbos (air intake pipe passes under the inlet manifold) which means they need a different shape p.s pump to allow room for the intake pipe [emoji6] Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Couldn't tell you if the slats are the same size , but you do have to cut them out with a dremmel . So you could trim them down if their to big , fit the facelift bumper (as it will fit ) or fit some mesh Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

The "V" stands for version which is how you know what parts fit . As the years for the versions differ slightly between uk and jdm cars . Here's a link that shows the differences between versions http://www.carldavey.co.uk/article.php?id=4 The expansion bottle on the right has a min / max level on it and that's the guide for how much coolant you've got , instead of the header tank bolted to the inlet Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

I occasionally pull a bit off and tell the wife it's broke [emoji6] As all maintenance needs replacing with the money from the joint account instead of the scooby modding fund [emoji12] Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk