savage bulldogs

have seen 375hp on a 2.1 running a vf but haven't looked for results on a 2.5 . I'd imagine that it would spool nicely[emoji4] What's your thoughts on "clocking" the turbo coldside outlet To shorten fmic pipework and get rid of the 180° bend do you think it's worth doing ?

I thought about rotated but cost and my zest for something outta the ordinary put a end to that for me . Have you thought about something twin scroll or are you running a 2ltr sump ?

Sorry to hear that bud , but at least once you're on the mend 1 k miles and a couple of oil changes won't take to long [emoji6] What turbo are you intending on using eventually once run in and funds allow ?

I'm not keen on loads of gauges either just personal preference really , as I have enough trouble keeping a eye on my 4 in 1 gauge when driving [emoji5] Ideally I'd like a alcertek (simtec updated) ecu which I think is compatible with the toucan , but funds/wife won't allow lol . Just fancied egt , intake temps, boost, oil temp and pressure with a easy to see and peak hold function [emoji6] Have you managed to rack up many of the running in miles ? And nice install looks quite oe [emoji106]

Looks like a nice bit of kit[emoji41] id love a toucan touch screen in mine, but there well out of my price range [emoji19] How much was it with all the sensors ect ? or does it wire into the oe sensors?

I'm running a gates kevlar timing belt with new rollers and early hydraulic tensioner, with the intention of running just over 400hp (eventually lol) 300 hp should be fine with a standard belt . It's generally the rollers or tensioner that fails rather than the belts themselves , as people tend to overtighten the bolts

Tlag's the man for legacy's tbo , but on the impreza's there's a resonator delete ,its a black box in the drivers side wheel arch trim . It's supposed to make the air turbulent to create a better mixture. Once removed it allows the air to be drawn from under the inner wing easier . If not applicable on the legacy you could drill the air box (under the filter height ) and make up a cold air feed

I think most divorced downpipes have 2 pipes with 2 holes in a solid turbo outlet flange, instead of the flap with a open mouth turbo outlet flange . I think divorced ones are supposed to stop the wastegate gasses causing turbulence to the hotside turbine . But open mouth type with 1 pipe might help spool [emoji15] So fook knows which is best cos can't find any back to back test results [emoji4]

You could de restrict the air box and fit a sports pannel filter

Plenty of space for a nice workshop , just buy your boy a copy of fifa and scrap the football pitch idea [emoji55]

I searched ebay for about 4 months till one popped up, emailed the seller and "bought it now" instead of bidding cos it had 36 watchers[emoji6] Not sure why the hks isn't bell mouth mabey it helps the smaller turbos back pressure . It would've obviously been less restrictive than the catted oe downpipe and they both have the same flat flange design. I fitted a cobra sports cat which was bell mouth and could hear the spool difference . Pic of oe vs cobra I haven't been able to find any supporting info to say whether bell mouth or divorced wastegate performs better . hence why I snapped up the cusco as it's snake head with a divorced wastegate (best of both worlds) and the only one I've seen .

I run mafless atm so any leaks on the "suck side" of the turbo don't affect mixture . As it's now controlled by the m.a.p sensor and a intake temp sensor fitted in the fmic pipework. I had thought about trying to enlarge the intake pipe and moving the power steering res to allow for a less restrictive intake . Have a google for "ash" silicone hoses for custom bends and bores[emoji6] and keep me updated on your progress pls fella [emoji106]

Well ..... Decided I need some new games for the ps4 [emoji19] Love my dog to bits , but didn't miss her dribble and snoring to much [emoji5] Enjoyed the proppa bacon [emoji4] But the £50 worth of nitro I've got through since friday evening has by far put the biggest grin on my face [emoji39]

Not silly questions m8 just hope we can help you resolve it, tbo if it's a electrical fault you might be better off getting the ecu codes checked before replacing bits . I've been mapped for 99 ron fuel , but occasionally have to put lesser octane in to get by . I just don't "give it the beans " until I've filled up with the right stuff .so don't worry too much about that if it's not done on a regular basis with full tanks . Not knowing to much about your bugeye set up ... Have you got 4 plug leads from the single black coil pack attached to the inlet manifold ? If so can you borrow some leads off another mates scoob for a spin round the block ? Or individual coil packs on top of each spark plug ? If so check for cracks around the bolt holes that attach them to the spark plugs (as they're prone to cracking if overtightend ) and any arc'ing to the cam covers .

Think you'll have to extend the o2 sensor wires due to the boss being lower down . also it won't spool as early as a bell mouth/snake head type due to the wastegate side being blanked off . Here's a pic of my snake head decat downpipe with a divorced wastegate (flap between wastegate and turbo )

It might be spark plug condition/ gaps or spark plug leads or coil . As they would give misfire symptom with unburnt fuel causing a backfire . Vacuum leaks generally cause rough idle /holding back on boost as symptoms . Have you been using 99 ron fuel all the time ? As a change in octane can also cause backfiring for a tank or so (until the ecu learns)

Sorry to hear that tlag , I had a couple of discs pushed out of my back during a car accident so I feel your pain and wish you and your project a speedy recovery , bud

What year is it ? As if it's a classic have you done a self code check ? As you might have knocked a plug off a sensor (o2, maff ect...)

Tbo I haven't researched where the excess oil returns to from the catch can as I haven't fitted one myself . I'm also unsure what happens to the vac pipes if you buy a bigger dia intake pipe with no oil " take offs ". I might fit a catch can in the future so if you do research the route of the pipes let me know how you get on , pls bud

I think Most people that fit a bigger /smoother bend air intake pipe delete the oil breathers via a oil catch can . buy a bigger dia intake pipe with no oil "take offs" to get the full benefit can't see why you couldn't blank off the ones on the oe intake though , just wouldn't increase air flow as much .

Drop cusco a pm on here as he refurbs 4 pots and might be able to sell you a set or refurb some you pick up of ebay [emoji6] Here's a link of his work http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/8129-subaru-recondition-calipers

I thought it was running standard boost (hadn't been mapped b4) Vf 35 will definitely kick in later than the tdo4 , but won't tail off at the top . Tbo I'm not 100% about your upipe as all classic ones are catless . I think harvey trick upipes have some of the best results I've read due to being the right size for the individual spec. Either way it's a nice increase in power bud , good choice [emoji6]

The increase in boost from standard is enough to put a big grin on your face anyways [emoji33][emoji16][emoji12] Did you say tdo4 ? Does your model have the cat in the upipe ? Cos that might be holding back the spool a bit[emoji6]

Any figures then jonny boi [emoji6]

Much better stance , you'll have to keep us updated with the handling improvement ,once there geo'd up properly of cause [emoji6]