savage bulldogs

No problem fella , just don't rush in and do plenty of research as there's loads of options and retailers . Roger clark is a quality outfit but quite expensive [emoji6] Although you should be able to reclaim some funds on your current engine I'll have a cdb and a sti 6 speed gearbox up for sale shortly .still in the car atm so can be heard/ driven. I'll have a squint at your build thread later . All the best clive

The exhaust would have to be changed and the tmic (good for just over 400 @ the fly ) switched for fmic . Have you decided what block you'll be using ? Pinned scd , cdb (stroker) or a pinned 2.5 ltr ?. Mabye a ecu upgrade with anti lag and launch control , once the mechanicals can take it [emoji6]

Tbo I was hoping you'd get a code for crank or cam sensors . It could be numerous things electrical but seeing as one of the codes was starter signal , it might be the imobalizer side of the alarm , dodgy earth (as said above ). Mabye check those and do a ecu reset .

Few things to consider when planning the rebuild and deciding What power are you aiming for . 6 speeds are cheaper and can handle 500 hp, I think racedynamics runs one in his 650 hp time attack scoob . They also drive better off track Semi Closed deck blocks generally won't go much past 450hp @ fly , without being "pinned" . Closed deck blocks are normally used for bigger power builds , as they have more meat between the bores 5 speed exedy pink box clutches are normally good for 400hp@ the fly .so if it's not a daily driver you might want to fit a twin plate or paddle clutch .(pending on power target) Head and cam wise you might be better off fitting some jdm sti big port heads or looking into avcs . I wouldn't bother with a stroker kit if you've got a decent engineer and your handy with a spanner . As most kits include ... 2.5 ltr nitraded crank (to increase throw and displacement to 2.1 ) Acl big end and main bearings Standard length I beam rods And stroker pistons ,which are about 2mm shorter than standard (to stop them poking outta the block face) I got my mahle pistons from "advanced automotives" . my Brian crower sport compact rods came from the states "real street performance" but bear in mind you might get caught for import taxes ,if the invoice is on the outside of the box[emoji6]

Are you using the android app for photo bucket or p.c ?

Lovely mk1 fella  Always had a soft spot for those . My mates got 4 golfs and they're all monsters lol New golf r R32 Mk2 syncro 4x4 18t gt35r Mk1 4x4 vr6 gt40 Greedy bugger lol Does the foz have a boost gauge ?

My 97 uk turbo has the same issue , but tbo it's probably not worth saving ,Nice thorough job on the wagon though[emoji106] I'll be keeping an eye on your project thread as I hope to be undertaking a similar age shell for a tidy up .[emoji6]

Here's a pic of what's under the cambelt cover , you can just see the pump , pipes and thermostat housing . As for brown stuff it might be rad weld or it could have been run on just water rather than coolant mix at some point in its life .

Nice looking foz fella 97/98' do tend to suffer from piston slap , just stay of boost till she's warm and it will be fine . As for replacement engine's any impreza engine from 93 to 98 will fit .Although 93 to 96 will require you to fit your existing inlet manifold ,97 /98 will drop straight in . do you still run a vag as well ? As I've got a few mates with them [emoji6]

The metal Header tank (attached to the inlet manifold) should be full . The plastic expansion bottle should be between the min and max levels at all temps

When the plugs off the crank sensor the car will turn over but, won't start .most people pull the plug after a oil change or major engine work to allow the oil to get round the block prior to starting . There's a thread on here how to get the codes off the ecu .

Have you checked the crank sensor plug ? or done a self code check on the ecu ?

The water pump is behind the right hand cover and the cover is only held on by 3 x10mm bolts . Id remove it then have a look around before sennding it to a garage . the 2 small bore pipes that attach to the water pump tend to perish or kink then leak Check the black metal pipe that runs from one of the small bore pipes to the oil cooler ,as they're prone to rust. Also the thermostat housing and bottom rad hose is in that area . Hope it's a easy fix fella , keep us updated

Been busy then bud [emoji41] Of course it's pointless without pic's .... And no I don't just wanna see your nipples [emoji39]

Thanks steve[emoji106] the cards not the main reason I stuck my hand in my pocket . it's because its a friendly forum with a variation of subarus [emoji6] But saying that, I do need a few bits from halfords and will hold on till it arrives [emoji4]

They will be 100 pdc bud Can't help you with a replacement though, sorry

Standard boost from the factory is 0.7 to 0.9 bar pending on model and year, unless you mean boost cut (which im unsure of tbo)but the mapper normally raises that whilst increasing the boost during mapping. The only other things that hold boost back is some version map sensors .as my 97 is only good for 1.7 (although I think some newage ones are good for 3bar) I normally deal in flywheel hp not wheel hp and my 2ltr forged cdb is running 320 hp @1 bar and my brvs v1 sti is running 342 hp @ 1.2 bar. But both scoobs have forged pistons and sti cams (higher lift) . So just adding boost isn't necessarily the best way to increase power and certainly doesn't increase reliability . If you're running the standard wrx cams and pistons they'll probably be your limiting factor during your previous mapping session .simon (jgm) would know what power their capable of but, I wouldn't have thought you'd get past 400hp@ the fly without them melting.

Safest way to up the boost is to let the mapper do it as you'll need more fuel added to the map to cope with the extra air .

Gambit or someone might have a link for how to upload the pics to photobucket and paste the img link to here . Easiest way for 6speed conversion is to google your gearbox number to find the ratio. Then locate a 6 speed with a matching ratio and retain your rear diff and shafts . If you intend to retain the 5 speed clutch slave , clutch kit , flywheel and starter you can as they're compatible . the 6speed clutch is slightly bigger dia so will handle a bit more power but not necessary . you'll need the 6speed .... Box linkage cradle Prop and diff with matching ratio to the box (if yours doesn't match or you fancy something with a shorter or longer ratio) As for doing the work yourself I'm much the same and have a build thread on the forum too .

Sound's like you had a good day out and the power and times aren't to shabby imo Easiest way to add pic's off your phone would be the Tapatalk app . Of the p.c would be through a photo hosting site like photobucket . Is the car in full trim ? If so what about getting rid of a few un needed bits . As for gearboxes blobeye boxes tend to handle a bit more power . Or you can buy uprated straight cut cogs (from the likes of lateralperformance) if you've got a spare £3k. Most used option would be a 6speed sti box (sub £2k if fitted yourself) As for diffs if yours is a wrx r160 set up you can upgrade to the r180 set up . Which consists of bigger hubs , thicker shafts and a stronger rear diff .

Welcome to soc . Very nice looking motor any further plans for it ?

Mine will hit 1bar @ 3.2k although it will make boost before that if I'm heavy on the throttle . I do tend to use 4th for most town driving but, change down for inclines. even though my 6 speed is a uk version 1 to 4 are a much shorter ratio than my uk 5 speed (im still getting used to the switch) Tbo I'm probably not the best person to offer advice on economy and keeping of boost as I bought and modded my scooby to give me smiles per gallon rather than mpg

No problem fella , glwts [emoji6] tbo was a bit dubious about helping you seeing as your selling up [emoji19][emoji19] Although I'm sure you'll be back once funds allow [emoji6]

James go on a any parts website that sells both clutches and cross reference the clutch kit part numbers bud [emoji6]

All classic clutches are the same dimensions although I'm unsure if you can mix different brand thrust races with clutch plates. Im afraid i Couldn't tell you if foz are the same as classic clutches . Have you tried cross referencing the part numbers ?