savage bulldogs
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Everything posted by savage bulldogs
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Glad it was a easy fix fella [emoji41] Did you do a ecu reset ? ( think the code check guide covers it) Early classic's (pre 96) have the o2 sensor just before the upipe , are you sure it's not been relocated to there or further down the downpipe ? I think standard boost shouldn't be anymore than 0.9 bar on a 97 sti . if it's more than that and there's no sign of a manual boost controller, it's probably been remapped. I'd get on a local rolling road as for the sake of £50 it will let you know everything's running ok .
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I know this dash cam was in a 650 hp gtr , so probably not to relevant in this thread https://m.facebook.com/home.php?ref=bookmark&app_id=4748854339#!https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10152587085031613&id=1012718039&refid=7&ref=bookmark&_ft_=qid.6033719230632082263%3Amf_story_key.5685645728017741780 But Damien Bradley's legacy makes mincemeat of it in a straight line lol
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I think most maf failures show a rough running or holding back as symptoms . It still could be a boost/air leak issue (due to the noise) As air coming in is measured by the maff . Air in the inlet is measured by the MAP sensor (manifold actual pressure) . And gasses on the way out by the o2 sensor. Any loss of air between these sensors would show a fault in the air system . Check the black plastic intake pipe (from turbo to maff) tmic pipes , dump valve (and fittings) for splits . Once you manage to solve the noise issue I'd then do a ecu reset which might mean you don't have to buy any sensors .
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I know it's a issue on the v1/v2 phase 1 type , but not on the later classics . Doesn't mean it's not faulty though , just not a common problem . Have you checked the cap spring/seal as it might be stuck . Or the overflow blocked mabye ?
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if it doesn't do it when you engine break id say it wasn't transmission related. I'd eco turbo related , Sounds a bit like a boost leak to me . Have you done a ecu code check by plugging in the connectors under the dash ? When you had the boost gauge connected what did it read ? Did it hold boost or drop off ?
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If others haven't found issues I'd leave em . It was just that I had a similar issue when I fitted the 4 pots , only had 3mm clearance though, got a bit parra about wheel flex or a stone getting trapped. So fitted some 3mm cheap ally spacers (£30 for the full set) from a local motormainia . As for bearing issues I understand people saying it causes more stress , but people run wide arch classics on standard bearings without many talking of bearing failure (to my knowledge). So surely a slightly wider ofset or small spacers don't hurt . Or just Ask me again in 6 months and I'll let you know if my (barely legal) wide ofset rotas have chewed my bearings to bits [emoji23]
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They look sweet fella , nice choice [emoji41] Have you thought about running some 3 mm spacers ?
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Other than having play in all directions ,worn Bearings will normally make more noise when turning . Try with the clutch dipped whilst cornering (under load will "humm") To determine what side. You could also try engine breaking at low speed to see if the noise is rear drivetrain/diff orientated . If the noise happens more then. Mabye check rear drive shaft gators ,propshaft uj and diff oil level . I hope it's something simple , keep us updated fella
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Don't know much about this topic tbo [emoji5] But have you looked into saggy butt spacers (que gambit lol) http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/category/subaru-impreza/saggy-butt-spacers/ Apparently they stop the extra weight of the foz making the rear end sit lower when using the wrx set up
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Got the one for my v3/v4 off here http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=1576&cat=96⊂=97&sec=143&var=54&dc=0&gen=&searchKey= But your better of ringing them as everything's not listed on their website [emoji6]
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About the cheapest brands I know of that give good results are japspeed , autobahn and hybrid design intercoolers . Id stay away from the unbranded "ebay specials " and toyosports as I've read the flow and heaksoak are a issue . I've got a hdi fmic myself and can't fault the quality , but their probably the most expensive on my list at about £500 .
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That was a nasty ebay special so we switched that for the autobahn fmic off the breaker . Poor thing also had a paddle clutch which shook the !Removed! outta you every time you tried to pull away . It's only done 86,000 klm and it's a shame I can't keep the original engine , but I've put to much time n effort into my current cdb . Will admit I'm still in 2 minds whether to .... Do a loom swap to run my mafless v3 ecu . Or Dice n splice the v1 loom to keep the separate coil packs and apexi ecu set up .
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That's not on the screen it's my mrs standing in front of the telly trying to get my attention , cos apparently since her boob job none of her bikinis fit and she needs new ones for our holiday later this month [emoji4]
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I'm looking into a powerflow 3" system for mine as the current zigen sets alarms off and pisses off my neighbours some what lol
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Hi n welcome to soc fella What's your target power ? As said above what injectors ect are you currently running ?
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I'm fairly sure that we've still got the lights n grill and hopefully will be able to find another preface ally bonnet and get a set of original aclantra seats eventually . It did look like this when my brv picked it up 2yrs ago
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Nah the doors are a bit mix n match due to some of the original ones (black handles) having dents .so when we broke the classic my cdb came out of we fitted the facelift front end and switched a few pannels around cos my uk scooby , his v1 and the breaker were the same colour [emoji6] Just gutted we scraped the original preface bonnet [emoji19]
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Not quite sure why I ended up with 2 of the same pic lol Here's a few more anyways
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Well as some of you may know while cleaning the scoob I managed to jet wash the bubble off my rear arch and rip the rear arch bumper mounting point off[emoji35] I had originally planned to do a 2 door reshell rather than spending a fortune battling the UK rust . My brv owns a v1 sti which although is older than my uk shell , it's mint underneath due to only being in the uk since 2009 . 17 yr old uk turbo rusty fubared arch 20 yr old jdm arch A few more of the rare ish shell It's a early one according to the build number (think it's number 19) So I might retro fit the preface ally bonnet , lights and grill to at least make it look original on the outside .
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I used auto glym machine cleaner to clean most of the ally bits , lightly sanded them with abrasive pads (halfrauds contour pads) and then polished them with autosol . It's brought them up nice and shiny but im still looking for a product to keep em that way
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That first fire up is a awesome sound :-D And I feel your pain tlag regarding the ecu as I to have had grief with esl mapping :-( but well done on the quick turnaround "from idea to creation" and best of luck with the ecu malarky. once shes run in and mapped you'll be grinning again , fella
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Nice work mark looks loads better [emoji41]
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No probs johnny [emoji106] Might be cheaper to buy a second hand set and send them to mark @ lateral performance to get them ultrasonically cleaned or get some bigger ones and a remap [emoji48]
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Sound's good ,as long as gambits not got my address [emoji33] As I don't want him hiding in the bushes outside my house (again) [emoji39]
