savage bulldogs

Has it done it since you've owned it ? Has it got any mods or been remapped? Maybe do a compression test (check the plug gaps / condition while there out) Check the map sensor , vacuum pipes and for loose loom plugs /earths Hope you suss it soon fella Keep us updated ;-)

Sorry for the late reply bud I forgot I posted on this thread . Yeah I've got the hard pipe from the servo (you can just see it beneath the strut brace) And I took the measurements from the two outter (drivers side to passengers side )12mm nuts on top of the strutt (theres 3 nuts on top of each strut That fix the strut into the suspension turret) . Hope you get it sorted fella ,let me know how you get on . Cheers Clive

Nice progress their fella As for the fuel pump I'm unaware of a front fuel pump on classics .I've fitted a walbro (in tank) pump nismo 550's and a fpr which should make the fueling side of things good for about 420 hp . if you're aiming higher than that you'll need bigger injectors , the bigger (walbro, bosh ....) pump (can't remember the model number) and possibly parallel fuel lines/ billet rails . although I'm unsure what hp the standard "in series" fuel rails go up to , I do know that they can make the last injector inline run lean when pushed. What injectors are you running bud ? As if their standard yellows (440's) they're good for 340 ish with a fpr but , don't just fit a fpr without having a remap booked in. as any slight difference in the fuel pressure will affect the fueling

Yeah I'm sure it will jay. I can't moan to much about my self build making enough power to blow the 5 speed ,just glad she's back on the road .As I've missed the burble and boost in my life for to long this year lol

Thought I'd bump this as there's 2 spaces left and just over a week to go

Hi and welcome What mods have you got already ? Id have thought front mount intercooler , induction kit and remap but ,I'm unsure what power the standard clutch is good for . Have you spoke to a mapper as they'd have the best idea as to what you'd need to reach your target or possibly more ;-)

Just hope I can start to enjoy driving it now :-) as it was off the road whilst fitting the engine then I had to drive it like miss daisy with no boost for 1k miles (while running in) Then had it mapped then blew the gearbox up two weeks later .... And yes miggs 200 miles of smiles so far ;-)

Clicking might be the original boost solenoid (as it's still wired up) pop the bonnet and have a listen when you start it . I think The vacuum pipes from the actuator / turbo outlet should be connected to either a apexi boost solenoid or the controller itself . To bypass the controller I'm fairly sure that if you run a piece of pipe straight from the actuator to the turbo outlet, then it will run at 0.5 bar of boost (actuated boost) as I was advised to do that when running in my engine . If you do decide to go back to standard make sure that you put the reducer and restrictor pill back in the right place to stop the boost spiking .I think the details are on that thread but, if you can't find it let me know as I've got it book marked on my pc ;-)

If it's not been mapped I'd either put it back to standard or get a mapable ecu .cos as ash said the standard ecu will only compensate fueling for minor mods and with a fmic and boost controller your probably pushing your luck I'm afraid . What year / model is the wagon fella ? This thread helped me understand the vacuum pipe route on my scoob when I switched from 2 port to 3 port boost solenoid as it has some useful diagrams http://www.rs25.com/forums/f128/t157501-help-v4-sti-stock-boost-solenoid-setup.html

I'd trace the vacuum pipes back from actuator or outlet from the turbo as they should be attached to a boost solenoid , as it might have a apexi one installed in a different position and just unplugged the oe one

the 6 speed's finally in and running .I'm well chuffed with the difference in quality of gear change and the 400 rpm less I'm doing at 70 in 6th is a added bonus . Now I just need to drink all the milk again so I can nip out in the scoob and get another pint :-D

lol ^^^^ pmsl taffy

did the same with the 5 speed when I fitted the pink box clutch last year but it didn't stop it spitting its dummy out though. still the devils blood is good stuff (should protect the 6 speed)and the seals only cost about £30, so yes bud well worth fitting

I took mine from the 2 furthest nuts the strut brace fixes to as I couldn't hold the tape in the centre accurately on my own .so clipped the tape on the outside of the drivers side nut and took the measurement from the inside of the passengers side one to get the centre's (if that makes sense lol)

did you ask to see the old broken parts ? have you checked to see if all the parts you've been charged for are fitted to the car ? as that seems a steep bill for a driveshaft as when I broke one on my classic i bought a new full drive shaft for just over £100 and fitted it my self in about 2 hrs .

I'll eventually need aftermarket headers but for now i bought a haywood & scott slip jointed upipe and ported the oe headers to match the new gaskets ;) I increased the bore quite a bit heres a pic of a before and after porting

well I had to buy the stub axles so I also fitted new drive/prop shaft seals and renewed the box oil with some devils blood(redline shock proof oil) pic of the 6 speed stub axle conversion kit one of the kit fitted with the new seals so the later 6 speed drive sockets now match up with my classic drive shafts the weathers been rubbish here but im hoping to get the diff cover, exhaust and tmic fitted tomorrow ,as long as the weather mans telling the truth as I don't fancy laying under the car if its still raining

the scoobs a 97 (v3) uk turbo and ive swapped the tmic for a v3sti one which is the same size but apparently flows a bit better .As for pics I took this today with the tmic removed and iv got this one with the tmic fitted but id check those measurements fella as I don't know if the foz has a wider track and therefore the struts might be further apart

Yeah I've been having a look at Google images and they do look like aftermarket un equals . The reason I thought they weren't was because of the extra scroll on the turbo side which o.e headers dont have . Mabey their just close enough to being equal to loose a bit of burble ? Ie turbo side is that bit longer than oe but not enough to be equal Get your old oe ones ported and sell those mabey

They look like equal length bud ;-) Which would make you loose the burble ,as burble is caused by the exhaust gasses hitting one another in the unequal headers not by the boxer flat four engine itself. I know someone with a newage jdm sti (which has equal length headers as standard) which doesn't burble either

I make it 1190 mm centres I measured from the outside off the strut nut (closest to the o/s inner wing ) to the inside of the strut nut (closest to the n/s inner wing) . And the 3 nuts at the top of each strut are at (roughly) 125 mm centers. Let me know if you want any more measurements or pics bud . If it doesn't fit say the mrs bought it for yer and they might exchange it ;-)

I'll take some measurements tomorrow and post them up in the evening fella ;-) I'll just start with the strut bolt centers to see if they match up first

Can you cross check the part numbers for the whiteline strutts to see if their the same ?

Body pannels , lights , glass , leccy window motors, interior trim and seats (pretty much anything non mechanical) is interchangeable . The sports engine, gearbox, shafts, diff ,ecu ect .... wouldn't be a straight swap and would be weaker than the turbo 2000 standard equipment

As far as handiling mods go .I've changed my arbs and links and did notice a bit of difference but ,not as much as when I swapped the springs over for elibach pro's . Think the cheapest (free ) mod I've done was to remove the intake resonator under the inner wing (although I'm not sure if your foz has one) but it helps the car breathe easier when accompanied with a pannel filter .