savage bulldogs

Hmmm shiny :-) Yeah I've never built a engine thats supposed to be noisy before ( dont get me wrong its only a ticking noise ) but ,It's probably the only thing I regret about the choices I made for components on my build, as I only went for the 750 hp ones to match the Brian crower rods . what oil pump are you going to use tlag and are you gonna go fmic straight away due to your tmic having to many entries ?

There's a apexi v5/v6 for sale on scabby net ;-) My brv runs a apexi fc , boost solenoid and boost controller in his v1sti works well .the only thing that I think is not as good as ecutek , esl and simtek is it only monitors knock (shows loads of info on the hand controller though) but doesn't !Removed! the timing to reduce it (automatically) otherwise I can't fault it Also esl and simtek have the ability to run maffless , launch and flat throttle shifting if you wanted to .

Nice shopping list :-) Are you getting the 2618 race spec with Teflon coated skirts or the 4032 's ? As I've found the 2618' s to be a bit over kill for my build (road car) and therefore still noisy during normal driving temps . My engineer was well impressed with the quality though and they do quiten down but only when spanked hard

Nice work matt , scoob looks great fella. loads different from the first few pics , much meaner with a touch of stealth (if that makes sense lol ) How did you get on with the back box bud ?

Yeah I like seeing something outta the ordinary and learning a few things along the way. Tlag how will you overcome the single turbo from twin turbo loom and ecu differences ? Or is it just a case of swapping the ecu / engine loom from a single turbo version and swapping that devils box full of solenoids for a 3port

Glad you got the box sorted (braver man than me lol) I helped a mate of mine break his jun 2.1 stroker classic last year :'( His 550 hp engine went in this it had a 450 hp newage sti engine in but , he said it didn't "wheelie " enough. I bet it does now lol Anyways as tlag said they fit in a camper but ,im unsure what box to use for power and have no idea how you get around the cooling system differences

been looking forward to a update on this thread B) are you going to get the bores " pinned" on the 2.5 block or will the scd be ok for your target power ? what injectors are you intending to use to run it in ? as I used the standard ones that were in my uk turbo (380cc) which max out at 300 hp so that kept things simple for the base running in map ;) then the day before the td remap i fitted a fpr and some nissmo 555cc injectors which I'd had flowed by mark at lateral as there good for just over 400 which ample for the td05 on a 2ltr running a exedy stage 1 clutch

I'd have a look on here http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts.asp?page=1&cat=96⊂=97&sec=143&var=60&dc=0&gen=&searchKey= Id make sure you get the "half moons" as well cos they get brittle over time . I'd also consider changing the spark plugs (if their due ) as you'll have good access when it's stripped to do the rockers

As tlag said surprised you haven't got any codes . when i replace the oil and filter I pull the crank sensor plug off to stop it firing and turn it over to get the oil around the engine prior to starting . I've never had a code come up once I've plugged it back in and started it, so maybe check the connection to that and a few of the other sensors. Failing that have you tried putting a old spark plug in one of the ht leads and holding it to a bolt on the bodywork (earth) with some insulated pliers and getting someone to turn it over . You should be able to see if it's sparking . best of luck fella

Glad to hear you're making better progress with the insurance company fella :-) Not so glad to her about the scooby misbehaving :-( Any joy with finding a suitable replacement ? If not I'd chuck a wanted post up on a few forums ,as you can check some of it's history by doing a search of the previous posts the seller has made ;-)

Halfrauds do one Ihttp://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=203553&categoryId=255216&langId=-1&catalogId=10151&ddkey=http:SearchCmdMobile I've used it before when fitting a few 5 and 6 speed scooby clutches. make sure you use the torque settings and some threadlock as well ;-)

Did you have the noise before you changed the diff oil ? Maybe you didn't tighten something / disturbed something whilst tinkering . my first guess (seeing as tried zorst and shocks) would have been gear box stabiliser ("dog bone " mount at the top of the gearbox) or engine mount, due to it happening during engine brake are you sure it's coming from the back ? Maybe get someone in the back to try to narrow it down Otherwise mabye try checking for worn bushes around the propshaft uj , drop links ,diff braces ect . it's probably something minor....... mabye just get a 3" decat you'll never hear it again :-D

We're unsure of the type of rotas im afraid, as they were on it when he bought the car a couple of years ago . he's away till next weekend so can't ask him the offset but ,they easily clear 4pots and are definitely 17 's .

My brvs classic runs rotas only got this pic of it slammed ,when we first fitted the olins coil overs . It shows the offset being on the limit though as the wheels only just tuck under the arches ;-)

I quite like a classic in red as you dont see to many .matt how many scoobs have you owned ?(greedy boi lol) As for me at 21i had a Mk1 astra gte ,wish I still had it as they go for silly money now :-(

Glad to hear your getting a few parts together already and sounds like you had a result with the tdo5. If you're aiming for 340 my brv s classic has 347 with fmic , tdo5 , gt headers and 440 cc injectors (yellows) . will admit the injectors are running at 92% (nearly maxxed out) but the tdo5 is only running at 1.2 bar . as for pistons have a look on the "advance automotive" website as their mahle pistons are reasonably priced , for a quality piston . I'd go for the 500 hp rated ones though as the race spec 750 hp ones iv got are noisy ,even when warm and only quiten down when being spanked hard (ooh err mrs lol)

I think most of the wheels above look sweet I'm rather partial to a set of revolution millenniums myself on a classic ;-)

Hi and welcome to soc fella I've changed a few boxes / clutches so here's a few tips you'll need to be able to clear the bellhousing on removal , you'll need to get the car up high on 4 axle stands . drop the oil outta the box as you'll loose most of it outta the prop seal front drive shafts have split pins on the inner cv's but you'll have to break the balljoints to withdraw shafts from the box. They've got a "push " clutch so you'll need to remove the (10mm I think) allen key bung from underneath the starter motor in this pic and withdraw the clutch pivot pin buy using a small (cam cover size) bolt other than that you'll need to check the flywheel is 100% true or get it skimmed as you might end up with clutch judder once you've fitted the new one .new gearbox oil , spigot bearing (in the middle of the flywheel) turbo outlet and down pipe to catback gasket . Otherwise it's fairly the same as any rwd box change . if you get stuck chuck me a pm . Clive

Gutted for ya fella :-( What's the condition of the bore sleves in the cdb ? You might get away with just a hone , if not mabye a over bore . if you're aiming for 340 mabye sell the cdb and get a newage sti bottom end and bolt your version sti / p1 heads on it. At least you've got the rs , hows that coming along ?

I can get a pic of my brvs next time I'm round his is there any dimensions your after as well ?

Not to sure but it might say wrx on the log book , as all v1 sti's were wrxs taken off the production line and then stripped and hand built by sti .rather than being built on the subaru production line like v3 onwards ;-) We've done a facelift conversion with crystal light pack

adrain flux came through with the cheapest quote for me . I think they're better for modified motors rather than standard ;-) I was previously insured with AA (when the car was standard ) but they wouldn't touch me once I started to gather a few mods .

I'm not to sure about the new look at the rear but quite like the front end . did spot this on the top gear website Think it's for the 24 hr race at the ring this year

Nice work fella and it's reminded me that my diff oil needs refreshing lol cheers ;-)

Does sound like piston slap as my old engine had it (ran fine for 5k mls until I replaced it) and normally big end noise wouldn't go away once warmed and would increase in volume with the revs . if it is a "sticky lifter" tappets a oil flush and a quality oil might resolve it , what grade /brand of oil was used during the service ?