Justin Time

https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/subaru/outback/reliability

Have a quick look at the tyre pressure sticker on the car where it will also list a range of tyre sizes for you vehicle. If 225/60/17 is listed, it'll be ok. If it's not then there may be issues with clearance with suspension etc. and speedo readings (due to the difference circumferences). Also, if it's not a manufacture recommended size, then you might be considered as having modified the vehicle and this could be an insurance issue too (and some of us know what complete bar stewards insurance companies can be and will look to wriggle out of liabilities if there's an option).

Hi. Outbacks /Subarus are still fairly rare in the UK so also consider this US site where Subaru's and Outbacks are very popular, so much more info. https://www.subaruoutback.org/ As I'm on my second Outback, I clearly have a fondness for them. I like their safety, size, comfort, etc. There are quirks however, and the mainstream dealership I've found to be wanting. Look for an independent garage if there's one near by. They're reliable but change the oil much more regularly than the owner's manual suggests (every 6000 miles?) if you want to keep it long term. Great off road, with proper all-season or winter tyres. Reliable and I never had any issues with my last one 50,000 aside from dealership problems. They'll be heavier on brakes and tyres perhaps, and expect to get 30 - 35 mpg if driving on A and B roads with hills. I wouldn't buy one for heavy commuting, or doing local trips to and from the shops. But for safely driving the family around the countryside, and all your gear, in comfort, they're great.

I've had this happen once to me in the last couple of weeks I've owned the car. However, I'd been messing with the auto lock on the powered boot so it might have been that. Hasn't happened since although I've tried to repeat the situation. The OB and maybe other Subarus in the UK (and Europe) have an odd alarm system installed. Have a look in your bundle of booklets you received for something called "Category 1 Alarm System Operating Instructions" for vehicles with smart entry (with selective unlock", if you have one. Also, have a look in the lower dash near to the bonnet release lever. There's a small fuse box which flips down. On the inside lid of the cover you'll find a small key pad. This is where you can control various alarm features. Before you touch however, make sure you have a set of silver stickers on which is printed, headed "IMPORTANT Your pre-programmed PIN is: @@@@@" . I've always steered well clear of touching this in my previous car, but was tempted to see if i could switch the internal alarm off when I left a dog in the locked car. As it was, I found a quicker method which was just to swivel the two spherical 'sensors', either side of the A frame, so they pointed down. The alarm never sounded with a dog left in, so it worked for me, although he was usually quiet and laid in the boot. A more active animal might have triggered it. Hope you get it sorted

Don't tow myself, but here are just a few reviews that suggest it's Ok but not great with the CVT. If I was doing towing myself, I'd go for a Skoda diesel 4x4 like the karoq/octavia. Friend of mine has just picked up a '17 plate Nissan x-trail diesel for pulling her horse trailer. 210 mm of ground clearance and lockable 4x4 option too. Does the job really well. So few diesels on the market now being sold :(

The reason why it is important for me is that I compete in, and support, events in the equestrian world, and attend lots of local agricultural shows too. Practically all of these are held on agricultural fields (meadows/pastures), and particularly with our climate we have plenty of rainfall and muddy gateways to enter and exit. This year, for example, I was marshalling on an equestrian endurance event in the north of England. Just a regional/county event, where some 45 riders arrived in their horse boxes or towing horse trailers and parked on the field. As marshals, we helped them onto the grass field and parked them up. It had rained moderately the night before, and then rained over the course of the event (5 hours). There was only one gateway on and off the field. I'd had enough foresight to drive the OB off the field and park it along the lane during the event so as not to get trapped. As the riders were returning, loaded up and then attempting to leave, the ground near the gateway became 'somme-like', and we had to tow some 20 plus vehicles off with a tractor. I learnt a number of lessons while hitching the chains to the front and undersides of those vehicles: 1. Most of the drivers didn't know what a tow-hook was, or where they might find one in their vehicle. You can picture the frenzy of people, in the rain, opening their trunks and unloading saddles, tack and the rest of their gear, in order to get to the underfloor space. 2. VAG groups cars (Audi and VW, etc.) have a LH thread on their tow hook/eyes! Why? 3. We were towing some pretty hard core 4x4s (Land cruisers and Defenders) off that field as the drivers seemed oblivious to how to use low-range and locking diffs. I'll not comment on the gender of the drivers, but given it was a 'horsey' event you might guess. Well we all have to learn! Anyway - all got off safely, and despite the rain there was good cheer all around and no damage. I hope my tyre choice and the Subaru's capabilities, will lead me to avoid the ignominy of sharing these experiences in the future. But for a supposed outdoor enthusiast's vehicle, this is a serious omission. Further thought. We've had some flooding in the UK recently, and I've been aware from the news of stranded vehicles needing to be towed out of water. I'd imagine it would be much more of a challenge to try and attach a line to the Gen 6 tow eyes, underwater, than the traditional bumper bolt hooks in the front bumper, same goes for a vehicle stuck in deep mud - messy and tricky burrowing under the front bumper. Most vehicles still have the screw in bolt hook, so I wonder why Subaru abandoned this. I wonder if I need to invest in a shackle(s) of some sort. Maybe a galvanised screw pin bow shackle - one that will fit the hole in the plate?

Anyone know where the front tow hook(s) is/ are situated on a 2021 - 2025 OB? My old Gen 5 had a standard screw in tow bolt - hook which was placed in position behind a plastic cover on/in the front bumper. But, there's no plastic cover on the front of the Gen 6 (however, there is one on the rear and a tow bolt-hook to screw in which is kept in the car's standard kit with the jack, etc.). The owner's manual indicates that the front towing hook (it says hook not hookS) is located on the bottom of the body on the front left and right side of the vehicle. So left and front - that'll be hookS, then! I've checked and they are there, but they look flimsy and consist of holes drilled through a pressed triangular plate. Even more confusing the manual reads "The front tie-down hooks are located between each of the front tires and the front bumper", which is basically the same as the 'tow hook(s)'! Maybe I've missed something?

Back in 2025, I acquired a new Gen 5 OB - one of the lasts. I bought a new, full size, alloy spare for it and the Subaru spare wheel kit I've just bought a new Gen 6 (one of the last petrol ones). So, I wanted to take my Gen 5 spare with me - 'brand new' never used (phew!). Easy peasy - just lift it out and install in the new OB. But! Unscrewing the wheel holder bolt that holds the spare securely in place, I reached the near end of the bolt and it stuck. Real hard. It took lots of WD40 squirts and mins waiting to allow it to penetrate before the threaded bolt came out. I didn't want to force it and risk threading it. It seems the lower part of the threaded bolt protrudes into 'air' beneath the car and so is exposed to the elements and gets rusty. Had this have happened on the road side, after a puncture, especially the dark wet and rain I would have been majority p-eed off. So, note to myself - check the spare more often, and as I put the spare into the new Gen 6 I gave it a liberal coating of heavy duty grease! Worth a check?

I regularly slept in the back of my OB (Gen 5) on long distance fell running trips to Scotland and such, camping out. If you search on line you'll come across various versions of the 'carabiner trick' - it works. Here's what I've been doing successfully for years. You need a small thin - the cheap zinc plated ones you find in hardware shops is fine - carabiner to hand. Open the boot with the fob, or button, until it's fully open. Then click close, so the boot starts to descend. Hold the carabiner firmly in the path of the metal lock on the underside of the boor lid. The lock will 'envelop' the loop of the carabiner. And the boot will stop moving - you'll hear the lock click and the motor will stop whirling. The car now thinks the boot is locked, whereas it's only part way closed. Slowly lift the boot lid manually to fully open (or as high as you need it). Check the dome light is out (caution, this light can sometimes be easily switched on by accident if you're moving in the back- some people tape over it to keep it closed). If you need further reassurance, check the instrument panel to see that there are no doors open (or the boot lid) to confirm if you're unsure. Now you're sorted for as long as needed. To close. Gently pull the boot lid down to about where you first inserted the carabiner. Now, press the open button, above the number plate (NOT the close / lock button on the underside of the lid), and the lock will release; the carabiner will fall out (catch it); and the boot will open to full, stop and bleep, as it believes there's an obstruction (that because it's not opened as far it believes it should) and it will close and return to usual closed position. There are several other methods, not involving a carabiner, but using keys or similar to press the lock closed, but I'v not tried those. The above method works well for me. I've yet to try it on my new Gen 6 I acquired last week. Can't see why it wouldn't work. I don't know if Subaru have fixed this issue, and don't have the desire to just leave the boot open for a long period and see if the battery has drained! If you need a quick battery check, and don't have a meter, here's another hint. With the ignition on, press and hold down the blue and red heater control buttons on one side of the main screen (doesn't matter which side). While holding these down, press and release the volume or tune buttons twice (you'll enter 'factory mode' - and 6 presses leads to 'dealer mode'), In these 'hidden settings' you'll see the charing rate or battery voltage level). Enjoy your event.

I've just changed from a 2020 Generation 5 Outback to a 2025 Generation 6, and I've noticed the very same thing, so it's not just your car. I'm going to have to see if I can get used to this in practice for a bit, but yes, I used to like the 'soft click', 3 or 4 indications, for lane changes which corrected itself off.

I think it was often DPF and EGR value issues, but that's true for a lot of diesels. Subaru were late to the diesel engine building, after much encouragement from customers - but you sense that their heart wasn't really into it. A quick look on autotrader will show quite a few diesels having clocked up 100,000 plus.

The above review gives some good advice. On my partner's new Skoda Karoq 4x4 we put these, last winter: https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-gb/car/catalogue/product/cinturato-all-season-sf-3 As the winter was mild, it wasn't really an opportunity to test them, but all seemed good anyway. On my Outback, I swop tyres: summer to full winter, about now, so we have one car at least at home which can get us in and out should things really get hairy and we need to venture out. We live in very rural north Pennines at just under 2000 feet altitude, up a steep narrow single track lane, so it can get interesting! Quite frankly, with milder winters and the vast improvement in all-season tyres, once my Michelin Alpin 5 SUV tyres are too worn, I'll probably buy some all seasons too.

A directional spare is probably better than none, biut with the strict limitations that it is used 'sparingly' (no pun intended, at slow speeds for a short distance. Better to have the rim shod without a directional tyre - maybe buy a cheaper tyre?

WITHOUT putting your foot on the break, press the start button and the dash lights up (like the first stage of turning on a key start), and this should work, allowing you to access the menus.

In my local Co-op carpark, if I pull into a bay on the perimeter, the cameras pick up the hedge and a warning is flashed up on my dash, even at slow rolling speeds. Find somewhere similar? If you have adaptive cruise control, you could try and find a stretch of road to see if, safely, the car's speed varies in traffic, accordingly.

Ouch!!! £££££ i've had similar problems and basically have now given up. I do find it useful occasionally, such as when in remote areas where there's no phone signal, but the GPS will function.

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.

Thanks for that info Judd and I will check out the forums too. I've been looking at something a bit like this one https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202505052055417?sort=price-desc&searchId=3ad54a54-2151-4185-8be2-d501efa62a98&advertising-location=at_cars&fuel-type=Diesel&make=Toyota&maximum-mileage=60000&model=Land Cruiser&page=4&postcode=DL12 0QY&year-from=2020&year-to=2024&fromsra Is that the 150 or 200 series? I'd not go for that one (too many owners for the age and it's a private sale, etc.) , just using it as an example. The invincible models seems to attract a hefty mark up - worth it? (I hope you're going to say no :) ) More choice with the Active trim too. Hardly any Icons trims. I like the utility version, but I don't think I'd convince my partner, with just 2 seats, as she's super sociable !

I recently spoke to a member of the sales staff at a UK Subaru dealership who informed me that as of the end of this year there will be no more new Subaru Outbacks (petrol) sold in the UK. There will be an electric option (yeah, well yipppeeee :( ). Don't you just adore the Great Global Climate Catastrophe Hoax supporters and their desperate ideological attempts to completely donald duck the whole car industry and empty fun and choice out of everyone'a lives . Now I'm not sure if I should try and time it so I buy one of the last ones, or just buy a Toyota Land cruiser (not the recent model!). Can't seem to see much else on the market that has above average car ground clearance, and permanent 4x4 functionality.

Have you also considered all-season tyres, such as the Pirelli Cinturato All Season SF3 or Bridgestone Turanza All Season 6 - SUV versions?

Glad you got it started eventually. I can't answer your final question but if you haven't already visited, this site below might be able to provide some advice: https://www.subaruxvforum.com/forums/ Best of luck

I have a 2020 Gen 5 since new. Aside from some issues with the near side front brakes discs (see loooong rant from me elsewhere on this site) all has been good. Re my rant, I've just started taking the car to an independent Subaru specialist who are great, and the brake issue has been sorted I found the main dealers dreadful and Subaru UK (i.e the IM Group are appalling). I've clocked up 40,000 miles now. I really like the car (apart fromthe brake issues. Did I mentioned those? :) ). It's not very frugal mpg wise, but I knew that before i bought it. I get 31 miles average out of it. I am driving lots of B roads, very hilly and winding, and the car is often loaded (full size spare wheel, saddles, other equestrian stuff; spare tools, pump, emergency camping kit (!), etc.). I don't find it under powered at all, but then I'm no racer and this car isn't built for that. It compares to all my other cars well in performance (2x yetis, skoda octavias, etc.). Remember, it's permanent 4x4 not the weaker, less capable, 'on-demand haldex like systems the VAG have. It's great in winter with winter tyres on (or all-season). It has a massive load space. I'm 6' tall and regular car-camp in it in lay-bys or mountain roads and I can easily sleep in it with all the camping, climbing gear and such. This is my first automatic. I'd heard lots of negative things about CVTs, re performance. Never bothered me - all seems fine. Not sure it's the best for towing though due to cvt - but I guess you'll check out reviews with the Caravan club, etc. 200mm ground clearance (more on the newer Gen6) is great. Plus it has a 540 mm wade depth (still water) if needed - but I wouldn't want to push it. Odd things? All my older cars going back 15 years plus had a automatic service indicator and countdown - not on this! You have to check the on board car data, or remember yourself! Radio is rubbish compared to other cars I've had, but Carplay is good. Having an onboard satnav is great. I usually use my phone, but if out in the wilds of Scotland and places with no mobile signal the GPS works fine - and is essential at times). I don't think I'd take it to a standard garage, as there are query things that Subarus need. Like most modern cars it has 'sealed for life' components, like the CVT. This is obviously rubbish - nothing lasts for 'life', but should be ok for 100,000 miles, although if you're towing lots then this could be an issue. Overall, I love th car, but it's sad that the Gen7 won't be coming ot the UK or Europe now and when they stop making the Gen6 there will be no more Outbacks here, and only hybrid and EVs to choose from (no thanks!). Hope that helps.

With the new Gen 7, 2026 OB being released in the US, it seems it's not coming to us here in the UK. From what I've gleaned this may be due to emissions standards and specifically the gasoline particulate filter (GPF) issue. So it's hard to countenance Subaru internationally continuing to produce the current Gen 6 OB. Instead they're touting the new model, the Trailseeker, as being imported here along with an updated Solterra - both full EVs. For those of us who eschew anything EV, even hybrids, that means the end of the road for our Subaru ownership. My challenge now will be, how late I can leave it to bag one of the final petrol Gen 6 OBs before they discontinue importing/manufacturing them. Hey ho (and part of me wonders whether Subaru will actually do a Mitsubishi and leave UK/Europe completely given the small market share already).

Sorry to hear you've had those issues with your OB. I too have a Gen5 OB from nearly new and can't say I've had those issues so I don't think they're model specific. Regarding the wind noise, a seal missing or damaged seems possible, or does the window on the driver side, while appearing fine, actually drop a few mm from being completely closed? Maybe it sticks or the actuating mechanism stops it just short and so needs to be reset? Re the glove box. If it is loose, this seems to be unusual and while not the source of the issue, I wonder if the loose fit means that a previous owner has removed it to do some work behind and it, or something behind, hasn't been refitted firmly? If the noise only occurs when the glove box is empty, maybe that 'emptiness' is acting as an amplifier for something loose and moving behind or under? Hope you get it sorted.

Like it or loathe it the newer version of the OB has just be revealed in the US. Basically it's boxier, looking to over shadow the Forester (?), but at least it's reverted to more buttons on the dash like the older Gen 5. We'll apparently never see it here in the UK given the car hating governments we've been saddled with recently. So is this the end of the OB in Europe? Guess so.