Justin Time

Yes, but you'll be well chuffed when the weather turns cr@p, or if you have to drive onto and off muddy fields this summer. Good choice.

Don't hold your breath. I've found Subaru UK (the IM Group) to be next to useless, very unhelpful, when it comes to customer care and returning messages.

Good choice to replace all tyres so the tread is essentially equal across all 4. Also, same brand and model too, is important. I know it's a right pain if you get a puncture on a only part worn tyre that picks up an unrepairable puncture, but that's the cost for having a capable permanent all wheel drive motor. This is especially true if you're thinking of keeping the car for years, or you're worried about hidden long term damage the next owner might encounter. When I bought my first OB, I did consider doing a 5 wheel rotation plan, adding the spare into the mix every rotation, just in case I got one of those punctures. But honestly, as for half of the year my car has a set on directional winter tyres it wasn't really a practical choice. I think tyres, are one of the most important safety parts on any motor vehicle. Best not to skimp ever.

Yes, I do wonder too. Here's what the Subaru UK website says about Subaru servicing: "Subaru genuine parts are original manufacturer equipment – the same components that were fitted when your car was built at the factory. Developed as the best possible option for Subaru models, genuine parts are produced to meet the same quality standards as a new Subaru. More than simply being the best replacement parts available, they’re also designed to work seamlessly with core components, such as the engine and chassis. By choosing Subaru genuine equipment, fitted by your Subaru dealer’s skilled technicians, you’re choosing to keep your Subaru’s performance, safety and reliability as good as new for total peace-of-mind. All Subaru genuine parts and labour servicing comes with a 3 year / 60,000 mile guarantee." I've emailed Subaru UK customer support to enquire and I'll let the forum know when/if I receive a reply. I do recall the Youtube channel MrSubaru, discussing the different oil filters that are fitted to Subarus and the merits of the OE over the alternatives. I'll also open anther thread on a related topic from today too.

My 2025 Gen 6 is now 12 months old and when I bought it, it came with a 3 year Subaru service plan option ('free' with the car). I've just returned from my local Subaru dealer with the car having completed its first service (12 months - 3600 miles). I noticed that the oil filter the dealership used has no Subaru branding on it. It just reads "OIL FILTER COMPLETE 15208AA160PRO" (see photo). Is this a OEM part? Should it be, or is this what Subaru provide to their dealerships for these service packages? On my last Gen 5, all the filters after every service (5 services - no service plan) had Subaru branding on them, even when I started to take the car to my Indy Subaru specialist.

Are the TPM valves still with these wheels?

Basically one of these (see below). No longer needed as i've a Gen6 and this doesn't fit. Comes with all parts, pristine and even with original packaging box and instructions for fitting. Make me an offer. NE England collection. https://subaru-parts.co.uk/product/dog-guard-genuine-subaru-outback-2015-onwards-2/

Perhaps you've already tried this, but I'd simply give my AA/RAC/Green flag, etc. a call and let them work it out (but DON'T buy the battery from them!).

Yes, they are considerably less than impressive. Of course Subaru farm this out to International Motors Ltd (IML) based in Solihull I believe. Lack lustre doesn't cover it. They seem to be well behind the curve and are still aiming at full electrification (and the death of) of Subaru in Europe and the UK, just when it looks like the tide is returning to sanity, and full petrol again. Hey ho.

Hope you get this sorted Bowesy. That's a delicious looking car, and I'm not envious one bit,.. No siree, not me :)

https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/subaru/outback/reliability

I've had this happen once to me in the last couple of weeks I've owned the car. However, I'd been messing with the auto lock on the powered boot so it might have been that. Hasn't happened since although I've tried to repeat the situation. The OB and maybe other Subarus in the UK (and Europe) have an odd alarm system installed. Have a look in your bundle of booklets you received for something called "Category 1 Alarm System Operating Instructions" for vehicles with smart entry (with selective unlock", if you have one. Also, have a look in the lower dash near to the bonnet release lever. There's a small fuse box which flips down. On the inside lid of the cover you'll find a small key pad. This is where you can control various alarm features. Before you touch however, make sure you have a set of silver stickers on which is printed, headed "IMPORTANT Your pre-programmed PIN is: @@@@@" . I've always steered well clear of touching this in my previous car, but was tempted to see if i could switch the internal alarm off when I left a dog in the locked car. As it was, I found a quicker method which was just to swivel the two spherical 'sensors', either side of the A frame, so they pointed down. The alarm never sounded with a dog left in, so it worked for me, although he was usually quiet and laid in the boot. A more active animal might have triggered it. Hope you get it sorted

Don't tow myself, but here are just a few reviews that suggest it's Ok but not great with the CVT. If I was doing towing myself, I'd go for a Skoda diesel 4x4 like the karoq/octavia. Friend of mine has just picked up a '17 plate Nissan x-trail diesel for pulling her horse trailer. 210 mm of ground clearance and lockable 4x4 option too. Does the job really well. So few diesels on the market now being sold :(

The reason why it is important for me is that I compete in, and support, events in the equestrian world, and attend lots of local agricultural shows too. Practically all of these are held on agricultural fields (meadows/pastures), and particularly with our climate we have plenty of rainfall and muddy gateways to enter and exit. This year, for example, I was marshalling on an equestrian endurance event in the north of England. Just a regional/county event, where some 45 riders arrived in their horse boxes or towing horse trailers and parked on the field. As marshals, we helped them onto the grass field and parked them up. It had rained moderately the night before, and then rained over the course of the event (5 hours). There was only one gateway on and off the field. I'd had enough foresight to drive the OB off the field and park it along the lane during the event so as not to get trapped. As the riders were returning, loaded up and then attempting to leave, the ground near the gateway became 'somme-like', and we had to tow some 20 plus vehicles off with a tractor. I learnt a number of lessons while hitching the chains to the front and undersides of those vehicles: 1. Most of the drivers didn't know what a tow-hook was, or where they might find one in their vehicle. You can picture the frenzy of people, in the rain, opening their trunks and unloading saddles, tack and the rest of their gear, in order to get to the underfloor space. 2. VAG groups cars (Audi and VW, etc.) have a LH thread on their tow hook/eyes! Why? 3. We were towing some pretty hard core 4x4s (Land cruisers and Defenders) off that field as the drivers seemed oblivious to how to use low-range and locking diffs. I'll not comment on the gender of the drivers, but given it was a 'horsey' event you might guess. Well we all have to learn! Anyway - all got off safely, and despite the rain there was good cheer all around and no damage. I hope my tyre choice and the Subaru's capabilities, will lead me to avoid the ignominy of sharing these experiences in the future. But for a supposed outdoor enthusiast's vehicle, this is a serious omission. Further thought. We've had some flooding in the UK recently, and I've been aware from the news of stranded vehicles needing to be towed out of water. I'd imagine it would be much more of a challenge to try and attach a line to the Gen 6 tow eyes, underwater, than the traditional bumper bolt hooks in the front bumper, same goes for a vehicle stuck in deep mud - messy and tricky burrowing under the front bumper. Most vehicles still have the screw in bolt hook, so I wonder why Subaru abandoned this. I wonder if I need to invest in a shackle(s) of some sort. Maybe a galvanised screw pin bow shackle - one that will fit the hole in the plate?

Anyone know where the front tow hook(s) is/ are situated on a 2021 - 2025 OB? My old Gen 5 had a standard screw in tow bolt - hook which was placed in position behind a plastic cover on/in the front bumper. But, there's no plastic cover on the front of the Gen 6 (however, there is one on the rear and a tow bolt-hook to screw in which is kept in the car's standard kit with the jack, etc.). The owner's manual indicates that the front towing hook (it says hook not hookS) is located on the bottom of the body on the front left and right side of the vehicle. So left and front - that'll be hookS, then! I've checked and they are there, but they look flimsy and consist of holes drilled through a pressed triangular plate. Even more confusing the manual reads "The front tie-down hooks are located between each of the front tires and the front bumper", which is basically the same as the 'tow hook(s)'! Maybe I've missed something?

Back in 2025, I acquired a new Gen 5 OB - one of the lasts. I bought a new, full size, alloy spare for it and the Subaru spare wheel kit I've just bought a new Gen 6 (one of the last petrol ones). So, I wanted to take my Gen 5 spare with me - 'brand new' never used (phew!). Easy peasy - just lift it out and install in the new OB. But! Unscrewing the wheel holder bolt that holds the spare securely in place, I reached the near end of the bolt and it stuck. Real hard. It took lots of WD40 squirts and mins waiting to allow it to penetrate before the threaded bolt came out. I didn't want to force it and risk threading it. It seems the lower part of the threaded bolt protrudes into 'air' beneath the car and so is exposed to the elements and gets rusty. Had this have happened on the road side, after a puncture, especially the dark wet and rain I would have been majority p-eed off. So, note to myself - check the spare more often, and as I put the spare into the new Gen 6 I gave it a liberal coating of heavy duty grease! Worth a check?

I regularly slept in the back of my OB (Gen 5) on long distance fell running trips to Scotland and such, camping out. If you search on line you'll come across various versions of the 'carabiner trick' - it works. Here's what I've been doing successfully for years. You need a small thin - the cheap zinc plated ones you find in hardware shops is fine - carabiner to hand. Open the boot with the fob, or button, until it's fully open. Then click close, so the boot starts to descend. Hold the carabiner firmly in the path of the metal lock on the underside of the boor lid. The lock will 'envelop' the loop of the carabiner. And the boot will stop moving - you'll hear the lock click and the motor will stop whirling. The car now thinks the boot is locked, whereas it's only part way closed. Slowly lift the boot lid manually to fully open (or as high as you need it). Check the dome light is out (caution, this light can sometimes be easily switched on by accident if you're moving in the back- some people tape over it to keep it closed). If you need further reassurance, check the instrument panel to see that there are no doors open (or the boot lid) to confirm if you're unsure. Now you're sorted for as long as needed. To close. Gently pull the boot lid down to about where you first inserted the carabiner. Now, press the open button, above the number plate (NOT the close / lock button on the underside of the lid), and the lock will release; the carabiner will fall out (catch it); and the boot will open to full, stop and bleep, as it believes there's an obstruction (that because it's not opened as far it believes it should) and it will close and return to usual closed position. There are several other methods, not involving a carabiner, but using keys or similar to press the lock closed, but I'v not tried those. The above method works well for me. I've yet to try it on my new Gen 6 I acquired last week. Can't see why it wouldn't work. I don't know if Subaru have fixed this issue, and don't have the desire to just leave the boot open for a long period and see if the battery has drained! If you need a quick battery check, and don't have a meter, here's another hint. With the ignition on, press and hold down the blue and red heater control buttons on one side of the main screen (doesn't matter which side). While holding these down, press and release the volume or tune buttons twice (you'll enter 'factory mode' - and 6 presses leads to 'dealer mode'), In these 'hidden settings' you'll see the charing rate or battery voltage level). Enjoy your event.

I've just changed from a 2020 Generation 5 Outback to a 2025 Generation 6, and I've noticed the very same thing, so it's not just your car. I'm going to have to see if I can get used to this in practice for a bit, but yes, I used to like the 'soft click', 3 or 4 indications, for lane changes which corrected itself off.

The above review gives some good advice. On my partner's new Skoda Karoq 4x4 we put these, last winter: https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-gb/car/catalogue/product/cinturato-all-season-sf-3 As the winter was mild, it wasn't really an opportunity to test them, but all seemed good anyway. On my Outback, I swop tyres: summer to full winter, about now, so we have one car at least at home which can get us in and out should things really get hairy and we need to venture out. We live in very rural north Pennines at just under 2000 feet altitude, up a steep narrow single track lane, so it can get interesting! Quite frankly, with milder winters and the vast improvement in all-season tyres, once my Michelin Alpin 5 SUV tyres are too worn, I'll probably buy some all seasons too.

A directional spare is probably better than none, biut with the strict limitations that it is used 'sparingly' (no pun intended, at slow speeds for a short distance. Better to have the rim shod without a directional tyre - maybe buy a cheaper tyre?

WITHOUT putting your foot on the break, press the start button and the dash lights up (like the first stage of turning on a key start), and this should work, allowing you to access the menus.

In my local Co-op carpark, if I pull into a bay on the perimeter, the cameras pick up the hedge and a warning is flashed up on my dash, even at slow rolling speeds. Find somewhere similar? If you have adaptive cruise control, you could try and find a stretch of road to see if, safely, the car's speed varies in traffic, accordingly.

Ouch!!! £££££ i've had similar problems and basically have now given up. I do find it useful occasionally, such as when in remote areas where there's no phone signal, but the GPS will function.

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.