Justin Time

It's bonkers, isn't it! I'm not sure it's just limited to Subaru's though, as I've been told some of the VAG also have issues too, and the new Defender has a problem in that if (when stationary say for a few days camping in the outback), you open and close the doors too often, the battery dies and you need specialist kit to sort it out.(see 4:42 mins It seems a lot of modern Subarus (like some other makes), never really 'go to sleep', when you lock them up and walk away, as various electronic bits of wizardry are, for example, always looking for the fob, or checking for an internet connection, or looking for upgrades of the software, etc., etc.) The modern, auto boot door on the OB is renowned for running the battery to dead if you have the temerity of leaving the hatch open too long (there's a karabiner trick you can do to fool it that the hatch is closed when it's actually open). Stories also abound of people leaving their cars at airport parking lots for a couple of week to got on their hols only to return to find the cars electronically dead. That's progress for you, innit!

Sorry to hear you've had that hassle. One thing I've learned with the OB, which may also apply to the Forrester hybrid, is that you need to 'force' the alternator to charge the battery every time you drive the car, such as by always having the sidelights on (the aa, or anything that puts extra load on the battery induces the charging algorithm to charge, when it would normally 'sleep' and flatter the mpg). I never have the lights set to auto. This advice was given to me by the sales person at the dealership - so it's a known issue. My old car, a 2016 Skoda Yeti diesel, allowed you to keep the radio on for 30 mins, before cutting off, and you could simply start the car for a moment, then switch off again for another 30 mins of radio time. Never had any battery issues in 76,000 miles and on the original battery. And yes, Subaru UK (IM Group) really suck, as I've very recent experience off. For such a small car brand in the UK, you'd think they'd want to give 5 star customer service - but they don't!

Thanks for that posting Rob. I do wonder how many other Subaru owners have encountered the same response from dealerships ("...90% worn....discs badly scored.... that'll be Kaching £££££££"). I've been actively looking around for another vehicle, but if by chance I decide to keep it longer I will most certainly be taking it to my local indy garage who I trust to have the brakes checked and, if needed, non OE kit installed this time (as Judd recommended earlier). As they say "Fool me once, shame on you....fool me twice...shame on me". I'm carrying the shame from the last, and second, dealership service 🤬!

Thanks. Do you know, I was thinking that while he showed them to me. I know that, albeit 15 years plus since I used to do my own maintenance. Why the heck didn't I ask! I'm a colossal numpty, that's why, and I could kick myself. So they showed me on side, near or off I do't know, but not the other side. Was that because the other side was less worn? We'll never know now as it's too late. I did see one disc, and it was scoured, but why, oh why, didn't I have the wherewithal to ask to see the other!!! In my defence, I'd drive two hours in the rain to get there for 9:00am that morning; spent 5 hours plus kicking around the local market town, also in the pouring rain (there's only so many coffees you can drink and museums to visit); then arrived back at the dealership to find the parts hadn't yet been delivered and they were chasing them up. So another 2 hours siting in a bland showroom waiting. It was 5:30 pm when it came time to pay up, and I had a very wet, dark drive up north again, so I was keen to put some mileage between me and the whole teeth grindingly annoying experience and a sore wallet. Urgh! Anyway, you've given me a positive plan of action to get the brakes independently checked and given a thorough servicing, once they got a bit of mileage on them and I'll take things from there depending on the outcome. Thanks again Judd.

Just a thought. At the dealership they showed me two single brake pads, which I assumed were from left and right front wheel discs. Are there two per disc, so there should have been four from the front braking system? Sorry that such a rudimentary question.

Thanks for your reply Judd and advice. Further reply from Subaru UK wasn't helpful and just referred me back to the dealership who serviced the car last Monday, stating they, the dealership, needed to make a warranty claim if they thought there was an issue. I've emailed the dealership and asked if there are planning to do this, but have very little confidence they will. Despite my quiet, but assertively raised concerns at the dealership on the day, they basically said, at the time, we'll monitor and see! There's also the Motor Ombudsman, and various consumer rights issues I could try, as well as approaching a number of media consumer champions to see if they'll take up my case. I've found the email for Subaru UK CEO too, so that a later possibly to pursue. I did see the old parts and they did appear worn, with perhaps one pad more than the other, but not significantly so. They did change the rear pads (but the discs were Ok), which I don't have a problem with given just under 30,000 miles, although this is less than my other vehicles. in the past. Interestingly, the Subaru UK reply said that if pads are changed discs should be too. I've not had to do this on previous vehicles if the discs were still sound, and the dealership obviously agreed. I like your idea about getting the front brakes checked and cleaned, and perhaps in the New Year I'll do this at my local indy garage, to a) monitor the wear, and b) give them thorough clean, etc. To my mind the problem has got to be either A. Me and my driving style causing heavy usage and load; B. A problem with the braking system (brake components, over active torque vectoring; ABS, etc.); or C. Poor quality of parts, which I think can be discounted. I believe it is B, and despite me providing some evidence that it was not, or very unlikely to be A, we've hit an impasse. It's a shame because in many other ways I really like the car. It has its foibles, but I could have lived with them. There are a couple of Outbacks locally and the owners I assume drive around the same sort of landscape, so I'm tempted to ask them whether they've had any issues with brakes. But I don't see this as being an Outback related issue per se, but something to do with my specific vehicle. Its MY was 2019, and it was first registered in December 2020. I've no idea where it was stored before then or in what conditions (over the covid period). That may or may not be a contributing factor if its a mechanical issue. Whatever, I've got an eye out for a new(er) vehicle. Maybe it's my natural cussedness (!), but I'm tempted to go and buy another Outback and see if I have the same issue, but that would be an expensive way to prove I'm right (and what would i do if It reoccurs)! Cheers again.

No luck with Subaru UK or the dealership with is issue. Despite my evidence indicating careful (normal at worse) usage and loading of the car which they've dismissed without a thought as a 'heavy' usage and loading and so heavy wear and tear. They effectively have given me the middle-finger. Not bothered to inspect the braking system to see if the cylinders, rotors, callipers, torque vectoring, ABS, ESP, etc, has malfunctioned. 30 plus years of car ownership and never had to consider a warranty claim or had to replace front discs and pads in under 60,000 miles more than once. I've had to do it twice, first in 17,000 miles, and later in just 11,000 miles with this car. There's no way I'm going to be paying the best part of £1000 for each annual service. I'll be selling the Outback asap and saying Sayonara to Subaru for good .

Last year, at 17,000 miles, at the the 2nd annual service, I had to replace the front discs and pads on my 2 year old Outback. The mechanic report said 90% wear and sticking on nsf brake. I pointed put that this seemed excessive wear and maybe there was a problem with this vehicle's brakes. But the advice was 'to monitor' the situations. Yesterday, at just a further 11,000 miles since the last service, I had the same experience. Excessive wear on pads and discs so needing replacement. Advice again was 'to monitor the wear'. I'm unhappy with this and also the fact it's costing me the best part of £1000 for an annual service on a relatively new car. I've written a complaint to Subaru UK and to lodge a warranty claim (the 3 year warranty runs out at the end of this month) asking for the front brake system to be replaced under warranty. For comparison, I've kept my annual service record for my previous car, a Skoda Yeti (diesel 4x4 - so relatively heavy) and I only had to replace the front pads and disc once in 60,000 miles of driving. I don't believe it's my driving habits that are causing this excessive wear, and I live and travel in the same area, so similar motoring. So 17,000 miles first replacement; 11,000 miles second replacement; that seems to me like the problem is getting worse, and if the brakes seize or are damaged in between services next time, that could be hazardous. Anyone else have similar issues with excessive wear of their brakes?

Wayne. Is the problem, or part of it, the fact the mechanical part of the latch isn't making contact with, and grabbing, the metal latch on the sill? I ask, because if it wasn't locking onto that properly then the battery would drain as it thinks the boot is still open. In my Gen5 OB, when I want to leave the boot open for a long period, such as when camping, I trick the car into thinking the boot is closed when it's not, by using the karabiner trick (see Youtube) on the mechanical part of the boot. This stops the draining of the battery (and also no interior light is on and I can see the car thinks the boor is closed because there no indication 'boot open' sign on the dash). Have you tried this website https://www.subaruforester.org/ ? The yanks sell and own a massive number of Subarus than in Europe so their owners' forums are great for info. Best of luck. Let us know how you get on.

Sounds like the cable repair either dislodged something in the bulkhead allow the air to rush in at speed, or the cable damage wasn't the only part that the mice chewed (e.g. maybe some rubber/plastic gasket around where the cables enter the bulkhead?) .

Sorry to hear you've had this hassle with your new car. Sadly, battery issues with some 'modern' Subarus are not unknown, as successful class-action law suites demonstrate in the US. I wonder how long the car was stored before you bought it. Whether the rear hatch was left up for extended times without the battery being disconnected, etc. Hopefully, the new battery will sort this and you'll have a great time enjoying your new motor. I still always drive with the sidelights on, use the karabiner-trick on the hatch lock if open for extended periods, and avoid short journeys. 3 years of ownership so far has avoided issues (hope Im not tempting fate!!!). All the best.

Hi. Sorry for the delay in replying. As far as I'm aware there are two possible methods. The simplest was shown to me by the sales person when I bought the car (a Gen5 OB - but similar to yours I believe). Either side of the windscreen there is an alarm sensor (ball shaped). You can turn this in the vertical plane, so that they are pointing down and thereby not picking up movement inside the car when it is locked. This works for me when I leave my neighbour's border collie inside I take for walks. He's a quiet dog and isn't ever bouncing around like a chatty terrier though. Having said that, I've only done this in winter so I've not left any windows or the sunroof ajar/open as he didn't need ventilation for the time we left him there so we could go to grab a coffee. The other way I've read about, but is more complicated. If you look down to the right side of the steering wheel, just above the bonnet release there is the fuses 'flap'. On the back of the flap is a small keyboard (the multi-function Keypad). I've never tried this but if you key in the code and then the code for switching off the internal movement alarm, this will be disabled (the ultrasonic Interior/ Microwave Protection) each time you exit the car . This is unique to UK cars I believe, and that's why you've not read/seen anything on the internet, as it's not supplied to the US or elsewhere. Look through the documentation that came with your car (not the main manual) You'll find a grey Subaru, paper booklet, entitled "Category 1 Alarm System; Operating instructions". Oddly. two booklets came with mine which seem to be identical. They're not an easy read! Your vehicle will have a unique PIN code- it will be printed on a small sliver of two little bits of silver foil paper, insignificant looking (but vital!) with the words 'IMPORTANT' printer on the top. Mine came in a small plastic bag sealed with the warning 'to be opened by the dealer only'. Inside is a pink slip from Subaru UK entitled 'Confirmation Of Vehicle Security System Installation" and a 'Schedule" below which was signed by the installer and there's a unique number for the system too. In the booklet you need to follow the section on 'arming the security system without ultrasonic interior protection'. Good luck with option 2. I'd suggest you ensure you've found your PIN code before trying :) it's 4 digits (and it's different from the 'secret' pin code to unlock the boot without a key). I also found this, see link, when I first discovered the 'hidden' key pad, and wondered how it worked. Honestly, I've never tried it as I never wanted to invite more potential hassle and you know what happed to the curious cat...!. And this relates to the booklet above. https://www.scribd.com/document/637009159/Subaru-Category-1-alarm-system-user-operating-instructions#

Re the fob, I'm not sure if the system is searching for it or not, but along with other precautions (karabiner on boot locking mechanism when the engine is off and boot open long-term; driving with side-lights on constantly, etc.) I do habitually put the fob 'to sleep' just in case, and of course I avoid too many short trips whenever possible. I had to replace the fob battery recently, but received plenty of warnings from the system. The fob would have been 3 years old. I'm still running on the original battery (tempting fate saying that or what!) and as the car's MY was 2019, and I guess it stood in a parking lot over lockdown for the best part of a year, those are other factors re battery health. I completely agree that it's ridiculous in the 21 Century that a car with supposedly robust features has this major achilles heel. Over the last couple of decades my previous vehicles were all Skodas, and all had the original battery up until the time I sold them, at about 5 years of age - no issues. Final consideration. The Outback has an automatic software updates system where it searches out home wi-fi. I made sure that was always turned off too, just in case it's running when the vehicle is supposedly switched off.

You can also check on the battery status/charging- volt level - if you go into the 'hidden' dealership and/or factory settings mode on the infotainment system. Press and hold the 'home' button while simultaneously pressing the tune button 4 or 6 times - then toggle through menu to find charging value in volts.

...well, in John Cadogan's opinion anyway, but we can make out own opinions up. If interested, have a watch of his vid (although his manner might be grating to some viewers!) Subie Hybrids :(

Thanks for the tip.

https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-news/industry-news/uk-2022-car-sales-analysis-winners-and-losers/ Subaru car sales... in 2021 = 2107 cars sold ; share of the 2021 UK market 0.13% in 2022 = 1391 cars sold ; share of 2022 UK market 0.09% ; Percentage fall in sales since 2021 = - 34% Anyone wonder if Subaru might go the way of Mitsubishi in the UK?

Every cloud. I know exactly what you mean about EPB. It might be of no consequence to you, but a small one to me as a horse rider, is that when I've met very helpful lorry drivers who have stopped when they see you riding along the lane, the 'sudden hiss' of the air brakes can send a horse apoleptic - and makes for an 'eventful' hack out 🙂

Subaru have quite small sales in the UK too. So you might be best to post your question on the US site https://www.subaruoutback.org where there is a vast amount of experience and knowledge-how . All the best.

I think there are some issues with the hybrid Forester. My own brief experience driving one for the day as a courtesy car while my Outback was being serviced; posted I had a Forester hybrid (less than 1000 miles on the clock) for a whole day in December while my Outback was in for a service. I agree, the Forester was ponderous when moving off from junctions and felt really heavy. I also couldn't seem to find a way to permanently disable the lane centring assist, or the auto stop-start. It was a Sport trim, and had a very dark interior compared to the sunroof lit Outback. Fuel economy wasn't anything different either, and the small petrol tank limits the range. I think Subaru hybrids might work in a city, but for rural driving I can't see the point of lugging all that heavy battery equipment around for no extra benefit. And why would you want one in a city anyway? Also, a major deal breaker for me is the lack of space to put a full-size spare, or any spare into. Ridiculous for a so-called 4x4. James_AU replied Justin, 100%. I am very disappointed with my Forester. I have a sunroof in mine, so it is lighter inside, but everything else you are spot on with! The size of the interior is great, much larger than my Outback (and I am 6ft4, so the extra head room in the Forester is GREAT!), lack of spare tire, horrible(!) fuel efficiency, automatic features that will not be quiet, yeah, all things that get to me too. I am thinking about letting this Forester go, and see what else is on the market. I love the idea of EV/Hybrid, but not when it costs me so much to get this one. However, that's just our opinion and bear in mind often people don't post if they're happy with their cars!

Yes, it's a well known problem. See this site and search battery issues for shared experiences and also advice. Others on here have given advice. In brief, don't do multiple short journeys; drive with your sidelights on all the time (in the day) to force the alternator to charge the battery and keep it topped up. If you've got a powered tailgate don't leave it open too long with the engine off; etc. etc. Use 'dealer mode' and 'factory mode' on your infotainment screen to check the charging of your battery so as to monitor its health and charging levels. Make sure you put the key fob into 'sleep-mode' at the end of the day or if you're storing the keys anywhere near the car (say if youre camping) so the car's electrics isn't constantly sending data to and fro the fob. Switch off the internet connection uploads options on your car to stop it searching automatically for updates, etc. Also, https://www.motorbiscuit.com/subaru-owners-suing-over-frustrating-battery-drain-issues/ to see issues elsewhere and class action abasing Subaru. I think Subaru have recently (in the US) agreed to settle the claims (ie admitted there's an issue - not sure if it includes crosstrees/xvs). Check out the US subaruxvforum.org too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4A-TCgmXkb4

I think the official Subaru position for their AWD vehicles is that the tyre makes and models should be the same on all four wheels and have near matching tread depths. That's a right pain when we cop an unrepairable puncture on a part worn tyre as the whole set have to be replaced ££££££! My understanding is that the Subaru permanent 4x4 system is very sensitive to differences and that issues can occur with transmission problems. It's one of this issues I was aware of when I decided to go the Subaru route. I'm sure there are some people who say that all of this is rubbish and they've run their Subaru for 1000s miles with different tyres and no issues. You pays your money, or not, and makes your choice.

I think that if you welded some sort of plating it would make access to the underside of the vehicle for maintenance problematic. Also, mice and such can be determined little critters and it would need to have any gaps filled to prevent their access, as mice can for example, articulate their skulls to access very small holes. I don'\t think sheeting or mesh would be the best option for the latter reasons. Trying to 'armour' the fuel line directly, might be a none lethal (to the vermin) option. Apparently, it's a regualr problem with people who store their vintage cars. https://www.mouserepel.com/how-to-keep-mice-out-of-your-car/ https://www.consumerreports.org/car-maintenance/how-to-protect-your-car-from-rodents-a5816950285/ Honda also sell 'pepper-tape' https://www.honda.wales/estore/GENUINE-HONDA-RODENT-TAPE-19MM-x-20METRES-p147716010 Best of luck.

Yes, wire wool might do the trick - good idea. I live deep in the rural north pennines, and we have problems with mice, rats, voles and shrews getting into the garden and outbuildings and making nests and eating stuff. Well, we did, until a stoat took up residence in the byre 🙂 The terminator. Sorry, I can't think of a practical way for enticing stoaty to hang around your motor. Know anyone with ferrets? Ferret crap scares vermin too, but you have to be able to tolerate it yourself!! 🙂 Just thinking, mice do learn quite quickly where 'food' sources are, and keep coming back. But if you can wipe out the 'family' that learning is lost. If you park in a regular sport, could you shove a poison baited vermin box underneath (to protect other animals from eating the poison)?

I had a Forester hybrid (less than 1000 miles on the clock) for a whole day in December while my Outback was in for a service. I agree, the Forester was ponderous when moving off from junctions and felt really heavy. I also couldn't seem to find a way to permanently disable the lane centring assist, or the auto stop-start. It was a Sport trim, and had a very dark interior compared to the sunroof lit Outback. Fuel economy wasn't anything different either, and the small petrol tank limits the range. I think Subaru hybrids might work in a city, but for rural driving I can't see the point of lugging all that heavy battery equipment around for no extra benefit. And why would you want one in a city anyway? Also, a major deal breaker for me is the lack of space to put a full-size spare, or any spare into. Ridiculous for a so-called 4x4.