Justin Time

Congratualtions on your new OB. It has a number of positive improvements on my Gen5 such as the ground clearance, and improved Eye-sight system, plus a wider choice with x-mode, and better internal space. Although personally, I'm not sure about the 11 inch infotainment screen, but that's the way most manufacturers are heading these days and I'm sure everyone gets used to it. I think you're right, there's not a heap of differences, other than some cladding changes, and I think they've tweaked the eye-sight again too - although it's quite a good system already. I believe they've enclosed the cameras much more to ensure less chance of them gathering dust or being touched. It's a shame they didn't go fully 360 with the camera options, and if they only would offer a wilderness version in the UK (nanny state says 'no'!) that would be a treat. Yes, good plan to keep vigilant for when the only option is a hybrid or (even worse!) and buy one of the last 'proper motors' 🙂 . No spare wheel option for the hybrids either...shock (for a supposed off-roader, rural drive...utter madness).

Anyone know when we can expect the newer version of the OB in the UK (or Europe)? It took a couple of years to get the Gen6 here compared to the US and elsewhere. Same delay again? https://www.subaru.com/vehicles/outback.html

Update after searching this forum! see TLDR Yes a spare will fit a Gen6. Dave47 fitted a steel with tyre 65 profile, so sale as the alloy with 60 profile. Hope that helps.

Hi. I'd really question what the dealership are saying about the alloy or steel full size spare being too large. I've been less than impressed by Subaru dealerships knowledge in the UK. Check out the US OB site as there's masses of good (better than dealership) advice. For example see: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/full-size-spare-tire.518698/ https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/full-size-spare-fits-but-not-tpms-in-premium.524763/ https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/full-size-spare-for-limited.528043/ There are many, many other threads there too on this topic. I have a Gen5 OB and one of the first things I did was to buy a new alloy Subaru OE wheel and put a non-directional tyre (Bridgestone Dueler) on it. It fits fine and the rim came from Subaru with all the fitting requirements (spacers, foam, etc.) needed to make it secure. From what I've read the Gen6 can also accommodate a spare rim and tyre, especially as the boot is slightly bigger than the Gen5 and so I can't see why they'd reduce the space for a spare under the boot floor as all of the transmission below etc seems very similar to the Gen5. As I've referred to above, they're fitting full size spares in the US.. Things to consider: 1. Make sure the tyre you fit to the spare is not directional, as it may need to go one any side of the car as required. 2. TPM. The Gen5 doesn't allow for registering 5 TPMS valves i.e 4 on each wheel and one on the spare), but that has never been a problem unless you want to incorporate the spare into a 5 wheel tyre rotation system. I'd considered this but it's a hassle and mine has a standard none TPMS valve. 3. If, like me, you just keep the spare for emergencies, then if it is ever needed, you'll likely have a new, unworn tyre that you're adding to the 3 other wheels on the car, so the tread depth of the spare will be different (greater) from the other wheels/tyres on the car. No problem for emergencies and driving a few 100 miles or so, but not a good solution for longer use as (you probably know) tyre tread depths and tyre makes, etc. need to match and be within small margins on any 4x4 Subaru to avoid longterm transmission issues. Get the puncture fixed and put the spare wheel back in the boot again. If you can't get the puncture foxed then it's 4 new tyres (££££!). It seems that the OB is the only Subaru model now that has the option of carrying a spare wheel, rather than a tyre repair kit. This is appalling for a manufacturer that boasts how its cars have some off-road potential and are suited for rural areas!

I'm not sure if it's same with the Gen6 OB rear boot internal light switch, but I read many reviews about the Gen5. These report how very easy it is to inadvertently knock on the light in the roof (top of the rear hatch) and if this happens i the daytime, for example, you'll not realise the light is on and battery drain happens. As such, lots of owners have taped this in the permanently off position. Seems to work for me. Yes, when I leave the car and I'm at home, I always switch the key fob to 'sleep' mode. You can test this easily by, once in sleep mode' and with the keys in your hand, try and open the driver's (or passenger's) door by pulling at the handle. Obviously, it shouldn't open. A few times, when I've rushed the 'sleep' mode sequence, I've found the key is still active - so it's worth checking until you get the knack of this. Press and hold the lock button and simultaneously, and quickly. press the blue open button x4.

Have a look at this thread (and there's a few others about Subaru battery issues too: In brief: If you've a 2021 OB then it should still be under warranty? I've got the original battery in and all is well (is that tempting fate or what?). I was told by the sales person to 'always drive with the sidelights on'. Seems to have worked for me, as forces battery recharge all the time. Also, never, never, leave the electronic boot open for more than 10 mins...it'll drain the battery pronto unless you do the karabiner trick where you fool the car that it's closed. Definitely, don't do short journeys without the side lights on (i.e never leave the light switch in 'auto' setting). You can check the state of your battery regularly by using the 'dealer' or 'factory' modes on the infotainment 'secret' modes settings. (see youtube, etc.). Hope you get it sorted - you're definitely not alone with having battery issues (see US Subaru forums).

Just a final thought. Not sure if you've read elsewhere, but if you avoid leaving the car's light's setting on 'auto' and drive with the sidelights on (or AC or heater blower works as well too if needed), this forces the alternator charging algorithm to always charge the battery (which it normally doesn't charge all of the time in order to flatter mpg figures, and is therefore an issue on shorter trips) to keep charging the battery, and so it doesn't discharge out. You can also use the 'dealer mode' on the entertainment system to give you a real-time battery charge reading. Press and hold the 'home' button on the infotainment system while pressing and releasing the tune button on x4. Once in to the dealer mode, scroll down and look at the 'signal' setting. I think pressing x6 gets you into factory mode and a similar list of menus.

I think it's not the XV per se, but Subaru UK, and modern Subarus which seem to be the problem. I too relatively recently came to Subaru after years (20 ys plus) of owning Skodas, all largely trouble free. I decided to try Subaru after hearing about their supposed reliability and the integrity of their customer care. I had fancied a Subaru for years, due to living in a very rural area and reading about their permanent 4x4 system and mild off-roading ability. I also knew they were relatively thirsty, so while I was commuting regularly I wasn't going to buy one. In 2020, after a career change, I saw my chance and bought a new Outback. In many respects I really like the car and its driving style. But having had to pay the best part of £1000 for Yr 2 and recently Yr3 services, due to mechanical weaknesses apparently caused by my driving style (!!!), and had my concerns both dismissed and ignored by Subaru UK and dealerships, I bitterly regret my decision. Currently I'm looking to trade the OB for a newish Skoda Kodiaq, diesel 4x4. I won't be looking back! I can now understand why Subaru sell less than 1000 new cars each yr. It was a shame Mitsubishi decided to leave the UK and Europe a couple of yrs ago as I had also looked at the Shogun Sport, instead of the OB, and so many farmers and gamekeepers around here rave about the Mitsie L200. Hope you get the battery permanently sorted.

It's bonkers, isn't it! I'm not sure it's just limited to Subaru's though, as I've been told some of the VAG also have issues too, and the new Defender has a problem in that if (when stationary say for a few days camping in the outback), you open and close the doors too often, the battery dies and you need specialist kit to sort it out.(see 4:42 mins It seems a lot of modern Subarus (like some other makes), never really 'go to sleep', when you lock them up and walk away, as various electronic bits of wizardry are, for example, always looking for the fob, or checking for an internet connection, or looking for upgrades of the software, etc., etc.) The modern, auto boot door on the OB is renowned for running the battery to dead if you have the temerity of leaving the hatch open too long (there's a karabiner trick you can do to fool it that the hatch is closed when it's actually open). Stories also abound of people leaving their cars at airport parking lots for a couple of week to got on their hols only to return to find the cars electronically dead. That's progress for you, innit!

Sorry to hear you've had that hassle. One thing I've learned with the OB, which may also apply to the Forrester hybrid, is that you need to 'force' the alternator to charge the battery every time you drive the car, such as by always having the sidelights on (the aa, or anything that puts extra load on the battery induces the charging algorithm to charge, when it would normally 'sleep' and flatter the mpg). I never have the lights set to auto. This advice was given to me by the sales person at the dealership - so it's a known issue. My old car, a 2016 Skoda Yeti diesel, allowed you to keep the radio on for 30 mins, before cutting off, and you could simply start the car for a moment, then switch off again for another 30 mins of radio time. Never had any battery issues in 76,000 miles and on the original battery. And yes, Subaru UK (IM Group) really suck, as I've very recent experience off. For such a small car brand in the UK, you'd think they'd want to give 5 star customer service - but they don't!

Thanks for that posting Rob. I do wonder how many other Subaru owners have encountered the same response from dealerships ("...90% worn....discs badly scored.... that'll be Kaching £££££££"). I've been actively looking around for another vehicle, but if by chance I decide to keep it longer I will most certainly be taking it to my local indy garage who I trust to have the brakes checked and, if needed, non OE kit installed this time (as Judd recommended earlier). As they say "Fool me once, shame on you....fool me twice...shame on me". I'm carrying the shame from the last, and second, dealership service 🤬!

Thanks. Do you know, I was thinking that while he showed them to me. I know that, albeit 15 years plus since I used to do my own maintenance. Why the heck didn't I ask! I'm a colossal numpty, that's why, and I could kick myself. So they showed me on side, near or off I do't know, but not the other side. Was that because the other side was less worn? We'll never know now as it's too late. I did see one disc, and it was scoured, but why, oh why, didn't I have the wherewithal to ask to see the other!!! In my defence, I'd drive two hours in the rain to get there for 9:00am that morning; spent 5 hours plus kicking around the local market town, also in the pouring rain (there's only so many coffees you can drink and museums to visit); then arrived back at the dealership to find the parts hadn't yet been delivered and they were chasing them up. So another 2 hours siting in a bland showroom waiting. It was 5:30 pm when it came time to pay up, and I had a very wet, dark drive up north again, so I was keen to put some mileage between me and the whole teeth grindingly annoying experience and a sore wallet. Urgh! Anyway, you've given me a positive plan of action to get the brakes independently checked and given a thorough servicing, once they got a bit of mileage on them and I'll take things from there depending on the outcome. Thanks again Judd.

Just a thought. At the dealership they showed me two single brake pads, which I assumed were from left and right front wheel discs. Are there two per disc, so there should have been four from the front braking system? Sorry that such a rudimentary question.

Thanks for your reply Judd and advice. Further reply from Subaru UK wasn't helpful and just referred me back to the dealership who serviced the car last Monday, stating they, the dealership, needed to make a warranty claim if they thought there was an issue. I've emailed the dealership and asked if there are planning to do this, but have very little confidence they will. Despite my quiet, but assertively raised concerns at the dealership on the day, they basically said, at the time, we'll monitor and see! There's also the Motor Ombudsman, and various consumer rights issues I could try, as well as approaching a number of media consumer champions to see if they'll take up my case. I've found the email for Subaru UK CEO too, so that a later possibly to pursue. I did see the old parts and they did appear worn, with perhaps one pad more than the other, but not significantly so. They did change the rear pads (but the discs were Ok), which I don't have a problem with given just under 30,000 miles, although this is less than my other vehicles. in the past. Interestingly, the Subaru UK reply said that if pads are changed discs should be too. I've not had to do this on previous vehicles if the discs were still sound, and the dealership obviously agreed. I like your idea about getting the front brakes checked and cleaned, and perhaps in the New Year I'll do this at my local indy garage, to a) monitor the wear, and b) give them thorough clean, etc. To my mind the problem has got to be either A. Me and my driving style causing heavy usage and load; B. A problem with the braking system (brake components, over active torque vectoring; ABS, etc.); or C. Poor quality of parts, which I think can be discounted. I believe it is B, and despite me providing some evidence that it was not, or very unlikely to be A, we've hit an impasse. It's a shame because in many other ways I really like the car. It has its foibles, but I could have lived with them. There are a couple of Outbacks locally and the owners I assume drive around the same sort of landscape, so I'm tempted to ask them whether they've had any issues with brakes. But I don't see this as being an Outback related issue per se, but something to do with my specific vehicle. Its MY was 2019, and it was first registered in December 2020. I've no idea where it was stored before then or in what conditions (over the covid period). That may or may not be a contributing factor if its a mechanical issue. Whatever, I've got an eye out for a new(er) vehicle. Maybe it's my natural cussedness (!), but I'm tempted to go and buy another Outback and see if I have the same issue, but that would be an expensive way to prove I'm right (and what would i do if It reoccurs)! Cheers again.

No luck with Subaru UK or the dealership with is issue. Despite my evidence indicating careful (normal at worse) usage and loading of the car which they've dismissed without a thought as a 'heavy' usage and loading and so heavy wear and tear. They effectively have given me the middle-finger. Not bothered to inspect the braking system to see if the cylinders, rotors, callipers, torque vectoring, ABS, ESP, etc, has malfunctioned. 30 plus years of car ownership and never had to consider a warranty claim or had to replace front discs and pads in under 60,000 miles more than once. I've had to do it twice, first in 17,000 miles, and later in just 11,000 miles with this car. There's no way I'm going to be paying the best part of £1000 for each annual service. I'll be selling the Outback asap and saying Sayonara to Subaru for good .

Last year, at 17,000 miles, at the the 2nd annual service, I had to replace the front discs and pads on my 2 year old Outback. The mechanic report said 90% wear and sticking on nsf brake. I pointed put that this seemed excessive wear and maybe there was a problem with this vehicle's brakes. But the advice was 'to monitor' the situations. Yesterday, at just a further 11,000 miles since the last service, I had the same experience. Excessive wear on pads and discs so needing replacement. Advice again was 'to monitor the wear'. I'm unhappy with this and also the fact it's costing me the best part of £1000 for an annual service on a relatively new car. I've written a complaint to Subaru UK and to lodge a warranty claim (the 3 year warranty runs out at the end of this month) asking for the front brake system to be replaced under warranty. For comparison, I've kept my annual service record for my previous car, a Skoda Yeti (diesel 4x4 - so relatively heavy) and I only had to replace the front pads and disc once in 60,000 miles of driving. I don't believe it's my driving habits that are causing this excessive wear, and I live and travel in the same area, so similar motoring. So 17,000 miles first replacement; 11,000 miles second replacement; that seems to me like the problem is getting worse, and if the brakes seize or are damaged in between services next time, that could be hazardous. Anyone else have similar issues with excessive wear of their brakes?

Wayne. Is the problem, or part of it, the fact the mechanical part of the latch isn't making contact with, and grabbing, the metal latch on the sill? I ask, because if it wasn't locking onto that properly then the battery would drain as it thinks the boot is still open. In my Gen5 OB, when I want to leave the boot open for a long period, such as when camping, I trick the car into thinking the boot is closed when it's not, by using the karabiner trick (see Youtube) on the mechanical part of the boot. This stops the draining of the battery (and also no interior light is on and I can see the car thinks the boor is closed because there no indication 'boot open' sign on the dash). Have you tried this website https://www.subaruforester.org/ ? The yanks sell and own a massive number of Subarus than in Europe so their owners' forums are great for info. Best of luck. Let us know how you get on.

Sounds like the cable repair either dislodged something in the bulkhead allow the air to rush in at speed, or the cable damage wasn't the only part that the mice chewed (e.g. maybe some rubber/plastic gasket around where the cables enter the bulkhead?) .

Sorry to hear you've had this hassle with your new car. Sadly, battery issues with some 'modern' Subarus are not unknown, as successful class-action law suites demonstrate in the US. I wonder how long the car was stored before you bought it. Whether the rear hatch was left up for extended times without the battery being disconnected, etc. Hopefully, the new battery will sort this and you'll have a great time enjoying your new motor. I still always drive with the sidelights on, use the karabiner-trick on the hatch lock if open for extended periods, and avoid short journeys. 3 years of ownership so far has avoided issues (hope Im not tempting fate!!!). All the best.

Hi. Sorry for the delay in replying. As far as I'm aware there are two possible methods. The simplest was shown to me by the sales person when I bought the car (a Gen5 OB - but similar to yours I believe). Either side of the windscreen there is an alarm sensor (ball shaped). You can turn this in the vertical plane, so that they are pointing down and thereby not picking up movement inside the car when it is locked. This works for me when I leave my neighbour's border collie inside I take for walks. He's a quiet dog and isn't ever bouncing around like a chatty terrier though. Having said that, I've only done this in winter so I've not left any windows or the sunroof ajar/open as he didn't need ventilation for the time we left him there so we could go to grab a coffee. The other way I've read about, but is more complicated. If you look down to the right side of the steering wheel, just above the bonnet release there is the fuses 'flap'. On the back of the flap is a small keyboard (the multi-function Keypad). I've never tried this but if you key in the code and then the code for switching off the internal movement alarm, this will be disabled (the ultrasonic Interior/ Microwave Protection) each time you exit the car . This is unique to UK cars I believe, and that's why you've not read/seen anything on the internet, as it's not supplied to the US or elsewhere. Look through the documentation that came with your car (not the main manual) You'll find a grey Subaru, paper booklet, entitled "Category 1 Alarm System; Operating instructions". Oddly. two booklets came with mine which seem to be identical. They're not an easy read! Your vehicle will have a unique PIN code- it will be printed on a small sliver of two little bits of silver foil paper, insignificant looking (but vital!) with the words 'IMPORTANT' printer on the top. Mine came in a small plastic bag sealed with the warning 'to be opened by the dealer only'. Inside is a pink slip from Subaru UK entitled 'Confirmation Of Vehicle Security System Installation" and a 'Schedule" below which was signed by the installer and there's a unique number for the system too. In the booklet you need to follow the section on 'arming the security system without ultrasonic interior protection'. Good luck with option 2. I'd suggest you ensure you've found your PIN code before trying :) it's 4 digits (and it's different from the 'secret' pin code to unlock the boot without a key). I also found this, see link, when I first discovered the 'hidden' key pad, and wondered how it worked. Honestly, I've never tried it as I never wanted to invite more potential hassle and you know what happed to the curious cat...!. And this relates to the booklet above. https://www.scribd.com/document/637009159/Subaru-Category-1-alarm-system-user-operating-instructions#

Re the fob, I'm not sure if the system is searching for it or not, but along with other precautions (karabiner on boot locking mechanism when the engine is off and boot open long-term; driving with side-lights on constantly, etc.) I do habitually put the fob 'to sleep' just in case, and of course I avoid too many short trips whenever possible. I had to replace the fob battery recently, but received plenty of warnings from the system. The fob would have been 3 years old. I'm still running on the original battery (tempting fate saying that or what!) and as the car's MY was 2019, and I guess it stood in a parking lot over lockdown for the best part of a year, those are other factors re battery health. I completely agree that it's ridiculous in the 21 Century that a car with supposedly robust features has this major achilles heel. Over the last couple of decades my previous vehicles were all Skodas, and all had the original battery up until the time I sold them, at about 5 years of age - no issues. Final consideration. The Outback has an automatic software updates system where it searches out home wi-fi. I made sure that was always turned off too, just in case it's running when the vehicle is supposedly switched off.

You can also check on the battery status/charging- volt level - if you go into the 'hidden' dealership and/or factory settings mode on the infotainment system. Press and hold the 'home' button while simultaneously pressing the tune button 4 or 6 times - then toggle through menu to find charging value in volts.

...well, in John Cadogan's opinion anyway, but we can make out own opinions up. If interested, have a watch of his vid (although his manner might be grating to some viewers!) Subie Hybrids :(

Thanks for the tip.

https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-news/industry-news/uk-2022-car-sales-analysis-winners-and-losers/ Subaru car sales... in 2021 = 2107 cars sold ; share of the 2021 UK market 0.13% in 2022 = 1391 cars sold ; share of 2022 UK market 0.09% ; Percentage fall in sales since 2021 = - 34% Anyone wonder if Subaru might go the way of Mitsubishi in the UK?