Justin Time

I had a bit of a rant (thanks Forum for the chance to therapeutically vent - I felt better for it afterwards - all calm now) on another thread last week about my issues with the auto-levelling headlights on my 6 months old Outback being set too high from the factory, causing other oncoming traffic to flash me. With the nights drawing in this is the first time I've really used the headlights. I've just phoned the dealer I got the car from to ask for advice and whether any adjustment would come under the warranty or, if not, if I'd have to pay for it. The point being that if its going to cost me I might as well take it to my village garage down the road. The dealer's advice was ambiguous at best about the warranty claim. So, anyone else with a newish Subaru had any similar headlight problems, and if so what did you do about it? Thanks.

Thanks Jay. Checking out a US forum I found that when the cars with auto-levelling headlights are being transported on the back of a truck or similar, it can thrown the auto adjusters out. Apparently, they are supposed to self-adjust 'after a period of time', of driving, with the time not being specified. There's a memo from Subaru to dealers telling them how to sort this which involved messing around with fuses and the like, and running through a routine of switching the lights on and off with ignition and off and so forth. But also, helpfully, this video was posted too Auto Self-levelling headlight adjustment - manual which shows a 2020 OB. If the problem persists (i.e. doesn't magically sort itself out) I'll have to give this a go, or call Subaru assist and let them get their hands dirty.

It's been a 'bad' day with the OB today 😞 First I found the automatic tailgate had mysteriously opened up itself on the drive this afternoon (no keys in my pocket, or similar) and I still don't know why. Then, driving home from the pub (no alcohol for me - 😇) it was the first time I had the headlights on proper. A 'less than wonderful (to get thru the automatic edit); experience. Yes the LED are like star-trek lazers, don't I know it, and so did all the other drivers coming towards me, flashing me and no doubt hating my guts. Even on low beam, they were dazzling on-comers. I pulled over to see if I could manually adjust them only to find they're flippin' automatic (but not so flippin'; clever it seems). I have been searching Subaru threads to see how to adjust the 'automatic' headlight levellers - Jeezzzz! Also, the High Beam Assist is rubbish! Why? Well for starters the super bright headlights bound back off every clean road sign and caused the headlights to dip onto low beam. So when driving along a twisty B road into a tight bend, the lights reflected off the black and white chevrons on the direction signs, jumping them down to low beam, just when you need to see where you're going. Whether the high beam then could be bothered to come back on again seemed totally random, leaving the unlit road, just like that - partially unlit. Same thing happened along an unfenced moor road, with the lights bouncing off the red and white reflectors on every snow pole along the route. To be fair, sometimes the HBA couldn't be bothered to come back on high beam again so we were at least saved the strobe effect from when it randomly decided it could be bothered to light the night's sky between poles. Sorry - rant over. Not a 'appy Bunny 🐰

That's good to know. When I collected the OB the salesperson said that another option to avoid the car alarm going off if a dog is left inside was to turn the sensors each side of the windscreen so they point down. Never tried it myself. Whatever, it's probably really helpful to find out what your code is, and record it somewhere in the car/or similar, just in case you find you can't switch the alarm off or start the car at some time in the future.

I've been working at home all day, looking out onto the drive where the OB is parked. All well...and then, an hour ago, I noticed the tailgate was wide open! Not sure for how long, but I would estimate it was open for less than an hour. I can confirm that the key fob has not been inadvertently pressed. It's hasn't been in my pocket, or anyone else's, since Tuesday, but has been safely hanging up in the key store. When I went outside to check the car, I noticed the alarm was off (no flashing light on the dash), but the car was still locked. I did a factory mode settings check to read the battery voltage = 11.4v (ummm!!!) Scratching my head as how this happened. My very long shot guess is that when I went to the far end of the house (furthest away from the OB) to sort some out some confidential papers, I may have accidentally caused the spare fob to get compressed as it was in the box with the papers. But to be honest, that's an extremely highly unlikely scenario. In fact, I tried pressing the spare key fob (tailgate release button) from the spot where the spare is kept, and it didn't activate the read tailgate as it's out of range. Now I can't concentrate on my work as I'm looking out the window at the tailgate every few minutes. Looks like if I'm going to get any piece, and work done, I'm going to have to rope the tailgate closed from the inside!! Seriously, it's not knowing how this happened which is a real bind. It could have been parked in a public car park or similar. GrrrH! The car has done less than 4000 miles. Anyone else had a similar experience with auto tailgate?

Probably the best source of recent OB towing info/experience is to be found on the subaruoutback.org forum, like this thread https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2020-towing-capacity.513581/page-20#post-6149831

I really get what you're saying. I loved my 2.0 Yeti diesel - the sound it made, the sense of torque and its 'gruntiness' ( 😉 ). What I'm not missing however, are worries about the DPF and EGR valve failures, which I knew would be a issue despite my regular use of the more expensive diesel options at the pumps. I guess I could add to the list the absence of a turbo to go wrong and, in the case of Skoda 4x4s, the newer Haldex drive systems which were getting a reputation for built in obsolescence (maybe not an issue with the Mitsie). Have a look at Ssangyong - Korando or Rexton? Despite what I've said above re the Rexton's 4x4 system, you do get a lot of extra kit; they do diesels too; and there's a 7 year warranty (Subaru have just reduced theirs to 3 years). Ssangyong do have a issue with the main company going bust in Asia though, so something to think about.

Great set of instructions Olliesgrandad. Thanks for posting. I did mine too on the OutBack and the only extra bit of advice I would add, was that putting a full lock on the front wheels so they turn to allow more hand space, really helped. The other thing i found confusing is that there is a really great guide for the OB mudflaps on Youtube USA Mudflaps fitting on an OB BUT!!! the US flaps are obviously different from the UK/European ones and need to be drilled (on the front pair only) from below the sills - upwards. It took me a while to work out what was wrong and that the UK set need to be 'drilled' from within the wheel arch. Don't panic!!! if you can't get a drill into this space between the tyre and the wheelarch or/and you're worried about drilling into the bodywork - you're not going to be touching the bodywork at all. You're only drilling through the new plastic mudflaps to make a small hole for the fitting, and in fact you don't even need a drill, just a sharp braddle or similar to make a hole in the plastic will do it and then bore it out a bit more so the screw fits through. Can't believe why Subaru make the whole (hole - excuse pun) process so complicated! It was a 10 min job, front and rears, on the old Skoda.

I'm not sure why you think the Outback is smaller: Boots space for the OB (seats down) is 1848 litres, while the Mitsi Outlander is only 1608 litres (but it does have 2 extra 'seats'). Length OB = 4820 mm Outlander = 4695 Wheel base OB = 2745 Outlander = 2670 Width OB = 1840 mm Outlander = 1810 mm The Outlander does have more height 75 mm extra, BUT the OB's ground clearance is 200 mm, while the Mitsie's is 190 mm The mpg will be a big difference. I'm coming from a Skoda Yeti diesel 4x4 manually transmission which averaged around 53 mpg, while the OB (2.5 SE Premium Gen5) only does 35.7 mpg, and that's according to the onboard computer which might 'flatter' the actual mpg. To be fair, that's carrying a fullsize alloy spare wheel and driving with the sidelights on (so alternator constantly working) and along mainly twisty A and B rural roads with lots of hills - v little motorway or dual carriageway stuff and I never use the stop-start. The OB is my first 'automatic' and I really like the CVT overall. Subaru now stake their reputation on the CVT in most of their new cars worldwide. Subaru CVTs in the UK are 'sealed for life' - so none servicable. If they ever went wrong over here, with anything less than 150,000 miles plus (?), then Subaru would have a lot of explain to do or would have to show you'd seriously misused the transmission, or else their reputation would be tatters. I think the OB is a great car and the Gen5 are currently at a bit of a discount (although this is an expensive time to buy any new or used car) as there's a new OB Gen6 out since July. To be honest, the OB is never going to be a 'thrifty' car to own, so I would never have used it for my daily commuting in the past due to its size and running costs, but that's not what I want it for now. I'm looking for reliability, safety, mild off-road ability, load carrying ability - car camping, etc. Oh and yeah, Subaru are different (and not a BMW, Merc or Audi like everyone else seems to drive 🙂 ). Good luck with your decision making. I had looked at the Mitsubishi Shogun Sport as another alternative, but with Mitsubishi leaving the UK and Europe, I ditched that idea, even though they've promised to provide parts for the next 10 yrs to customers. Also considered were the Subaru Forester - great looking car with good off-road ability - but the new ones in the UK are all hybrids. The Levorg looks great too, but I needed more ground clearance. Kia/ Hyundai etc. sadly have made their new 4x4s all really super soft-roaders, so ticked off my list. Land Rover est, all over priced, for me, and seem to be bottom of all the reliability tables worldwide. Pick-ups and SSangyong? All have 4x4 systems (4H) that can't be used on a dry, hard, tarmac surface (except the Mitsi L200 with SuperSelect 2, but see above re Mitsi UK?Europe) - so all ticked off the list too. Just left the..... OB 🙂

Got it - thanks. It's a sigma M30 I believe. Here's a doc related http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/uploads/Knowledge/sigma_m30_manual.pdf And here's a few interesting facts (well, interesting to me any road 🙂 ) 1. From another forum. re the Sigma M30 alarm on UK Subarus "If your car has a Sigma M30 alarm fitted, do not leave it within 20 feet or so of any type of fridge or freezer (LIKE IF THEY'RE IN THE GARAGE WITH THE CAR) - the electrical compressor confuses the car alarm system and the remote is also rendered useless. The only solution is to disconnect the battery and reboot the system. (or input the PIN code into the Keypad?) 2. User Features (of the Sigma M30 alarm system) The following features are switchable by the end user, using the keypad, and are detailed in the back of your operating instructions. To access this mode - turn on the vehicle ignition, press the remote button once, type one of the numbers listed in the chart below, immediately turn off the ignition. The numbers will have the following effect: .......I (especially noticed NUMBER 9...) NO 9. Turns on super-lock for next set period (allows the alarm to arm, but then shuts down the receiver. This reduces the systems current consumption if the vehicle is left for a number of weeks. The system then can only be disarmed using your PIN number , this gives protection even if your keys are stolen, whilst you are away on holiday. No. 2 above might also have saved a few Lockdown battery issues!! NOTE TO SELF - HIDE THE PIN CODE SOMEWHERE IN THE CAR!!!! Edit Update - Looks like newer versions of this alarm system no longer allow User Feature No.9 option - GRRRH

Outback Gen 5 (2020 MY)- Hidden keypad behind the driver's side fuses flap, above the bonnet release lever, and under the steering wheel. Anyone know what this is for/does? I can't see anything in the manual or online referring to it. I found this thread above which seems to refer to it (albeit missing in this poster's car).

I know it might appear a bit too early, but the nights are drawing in and I want to be prepped for this. My last four cars have all been Skodas (AWD), and every one of them had been shod with winter tyres. The last two cars in particular had a set of 'winter' alloys which I bought as Skoda were selling them off at a discount. Having two sets of wheel (summer/winter) allowed me to switch the wheels and tyres over, at home, whenever it suited me. I've searched online in all the usual places (Ebay, Gumtree, etc.) but there's nothing decent regarding Subaru OE wheels that I could find. They don't have to be new, but need to be very decent in condition. They also have to be Subaru made and for the Gen5 Outback, as I can't be arsed with insurance issues. I've signed up to a few spares companies online but have been less than impressed, as they have bombarded me with junk mail and still haven't come up with anything. When I bought the car in April, I did order and receive a new alloy spare 18” full size wheel but that cost £329. I'm reluctant to splash the cash again for that price, especially for a set of 4 (plus TPMS kit). As a last resort I might do what I did with my first Skoda which was to use the same alloys and get a local garage to switch tyres back and forth - not so convenient for me, there's a cost involved, time and cash, and I wonder about the longer term impact on tyres of being switched/stretched back and forth so often. I've thought about all-seasons, which would solve the problem. However, where I live at 1200 feet above sea level in the rural north Pennines, we get some 'inclement' weather, icy and snow. It's not unheard of for the snow plough not to be able to get up the steep lane and a snow-blower has had to be called for to sort the job out in the past. I do a far bit of rural driving over the fell/moor roads and I'm not fully convinced all seasons are right for me, just yet. What are other owners doing? Anyone using steelies?

I was quoted, by the dealer, that the OB wading depth was 580mm. He did have to get back to me with that info. after my question, so presumably he found a Subaru source? That's more than my old yeti (380mm) but obviously less than most 'full-on-' 4x4s which are usually 700mm and well above for some. Having said that the Ssangyong Rexton is a pathetic 300 mm according to SSangyong GB source!!! Rufford Ford webcams regularly show why it's ALWAYS best to avoid water... Sunk!

I whole heartedly agree with all of that. The current and growing eco damage is, ironically, also being caused by the rush to convert everything to battery power. (Rant Alert). What most so-called Green eco-warriors try to hide is the very dirty little secret about everything that runs on lithium batteries. All of these require cobalt in their manufacturer and 75% of the world's cobalt comes from the Congo basin region where it's mined predominantly by child slave labour (up to 35,000 to 38,000 kids per year work in the industry). Even The Guardian Knows the Truth! https://www.beroeinc.com/article/child-labor-and-cobalt-mining/ Amnesty International and many many more reports. I had to smile watching the BLM supporters use their mobiles phones to celebrate pulling over Colston's Stature in Bristol last year ( Bristol ) annoyed because he traded in slaves to work in plantations to supply ordinary people in Europe with cheaper sugar, yet they couldn't see they were just the same with their 'child-slave-labour' mobile phones and the like - hey ho!!! (Rant over)

And yet Subaru Japan do sell a dash cam as an accessory! Subaru Japan Dash Cam link Sorry, my Japanese isn't quite polished enough to explain all of this ( 🙂 ), and I can't see the cam's model details either. However, looks like it also works on the rear (and is that using the car's reversing rear camera?).

Apparently there's a fix for the battery under charging issue due to the 'smart'/variable charging alternator issues that seem to leave people with flat batteries, especially after short driving trips (other fixes for different problems also referred to). It entails reprogramming the car's ECU - a job for dealerships rather than DIY, apparently. Applies across the Subaru model range 2015 - 2018 except the XV (crosstrek), it seems. It might also apply to later models, or something similar perhaps? This is from Subaru of America. Dead Battery fix? Those on this forum with more technical knowledge and know-how might be able to comment further.

Brack, I thought about getting a dash cam. Does your car have Eyesight, and if so, where do you position the camera?

I'm coming directly from a Skoda Yeti too, and I don't think there's an equivalent system on the Outback that I can find. Likewise, the trip meter on the Yeti allowed me to stop (for up to 2 hours) the car and, for example, refuel and grab a coffee as part of a single trip without resetting itself in distance or time travelled (driving). Not the same on the OB. Sometimes Skoda really is 'simply clever' 😉

See other threads on this forum, e.g. the recent one battery issues 2020 0utback (and also threads on the USA forum subaruoutback.org) for, hopefully, a solution to help prevent this in future (spoiler alert: always drive with your sidelights on to force the alternator - which charges the car's battery - to operate and so always recharge the battery and keep it topped up). Apparently, modern subarus, like lots of other modern cars, have a battery charging algorithm that shuts the alternator off to flatter the mpg figures. The alternator only kicks in when the battery is very low and, I've read, this has a long term negative effect on the battery and its longevity. There might be other more sophisticated explanations, but that's my lay person, simple understanding, of what's going on. I'm sure I'll be corrected if need be 🙂

That's right. And the best way to 'deactivate' the alarm's internal sensor if, for example, you leave a dog locked in the car or your granny, and you don't want the alarm to go off, is to twist it so it points down and away from the bulk of the car's interior. I think you can probably deactivate the internal sensor by going through the car's infotainment menu, but I've not been able to work through that labyrinth yet to do it (so if anyone has some quicker hints than just twisting the senor down, please tell 🙂 ).

I know exactly what you mean 🙂 It's just my nerdiness (you've worked that out already, no doubt) that made me persist with the tailgate pin code!

How do you access that from the outside when the car is locked?

Re Warranty - it's worth enquiring if you can buy an extended warranty from Subaru UK (many manufacturers offer this at purchase, from new). The old 5 year warranty was made up of 3 yrs Subaru (Global) , bumper to bumper, plus a 2 year Subaru (UK) add-on covering engine and transmission (only). The new OB (depending on the version) comes with extra kit that the Gen5 only had available as accessories. The Gen6 also has an extra 13mm of ground clearance compared to the Gen5 - that's a big plus for some. Mind you, there are some good Gen5 discounts to be had currently if you check autotrader.

I'm not sure if this is old news to more established Subaru owners, but after the 'batteries issues' thread I found a way to access factory and dealership settings via the infotainment screen, gleaned from a US website. Works on the Gen5, Gen6 OB and maybe on Levorg and XV, Impreza too if they have the same infotainmnet system. To access Factory settings - press and hold the 'home' button (the house icon) on the main infotainmnet screen, while simultaneously pressing the tune/scroll button x2. Gives access to a wide range of settings, information and possible adjustments. To access Dealer settings - press and hold the home button, while simultaneously pressing the tune/scroll button x6. Works with the engine running or not, but with acc on. Both of the above show what I was searching for - the battery charging rate and state. Mine was 14.4 v while running, and 12.2 v while engine off (but side lights and radio on - no a/c on). Needless to say I didn't change anything. As they say 'a little knowledge....'

Les, that's also a good idea if you, for example, pitch a tent next to the car (within range of the car door) so avoiding anyone unwelcome trying to access the car. It's also worth checking if the 'live' fob is detected by your car when the car is on the drive at home, or anywhere in range of where the keys are normally stored.