Mr B

^ will do stants ...

A bit more welding for you Theador ... rear bracket on the SG for the DL is single tab but it quite secure welds onto the lateral link, could be improved with more welds & a edge fin welded down onto lateral link on the nut side same as non nut side to stiffen it up & secure it further. easy job for any good welder & wouldn't cost mush to do both main arb maounts & DL mounts as not much materials needed & wouldn't take very long ... pic below from subaru workshop manual of SG DL ... Those prodrive arb's on ebay were well cheap, would of bought 2 or 3 off them if had spotted it ...

maybe this will help ! http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/2007/

As stants suggests, you could strengthen standard foz brackets, you could also cut-n-shut sti & foz bracket & strengthen. if standard brackets are quite rusty then deffo want source better but if clean a decent bit of welding work will get them close to WL strength.

I would go with KYB exel Gs at £53 each on the rear (damping rates are higher on these over standard), add some custom springs from springcoil spec'd slightly higher rate than standard & dropped 25-35mm at most. custom springs front & rear would probably be around £230. It will be all new, vehicle will sit right without hassle & it will handle far better. You will notice a night & day difference with just bad SLS removed so adding cutsom spec springs improves things a little more, done the odd XT with springcoil sourced springs & always been impressed with end results.

^ Yes, even if do a full set you will find rear sag & need spacer on the strut hat ... Best option is custom springs from springcoil.co.uk if you want something different ...

You can buy new KYB struts & springs with 2yr warranty for around £200 (strut/shock £53 each, Springs £91 pair). Impreza springs sag a fair bit as they softer & ride height spec on forester is completely different. thread with link to struts & springs below> http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/

Most cheap/average bodyshop jobs last about 2 years, is a lot of man hours to be done right & requires excellent products & excellent application for job that lasts, work in that link does look good ...

Any doubts I would contact Blueprint on that or the actual bearing maker, should be stamped on bearing. I get NTN mainly & through a local bearing shop The Bearing Shop Exeter, they supply needle roller spec & NTN are pre packed for use. Good quality grease for these bearings is Mobil1 synthetic red .

test the level switch with a multimeter, Check connectors on sensors & feed voltage/earth then find the signal wire & check the voltage reading varies as arm of sensor moved., if it reads ok you can fix bracket, clear fault/recalibrate level if needed & all should be good. Diagnostic not going be huge amount of help over a good multimeter on this. Manuals should be found at link below which may help as have details on the HID procedures. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/2007/

meyle hd links are pretty good http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Front-Left-Stabiliser-anti-roll-bar-DROP-LINK-ROD-No-34-16-060-0003-HD-/351180974431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item51c404695f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Rear-Left-Stabiliser-anti-roll-bar-DROP-LINK-ROD-Part-No-34-16-060-0004-HD-/361063356741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item54110d9945 Strongflex do the bushes & pricing & shipping is really good as is product, as stants said measuring your bars is best option . http://www.strongflex.eu/en/subaru-forester-sf-97-02/381-front-anti-roll-bar-bush-18-25mm.html http://www.strongflex.eu/en/subaru-forester-sf-97-02/353-271148b-rear-anti-roll-bar-bush-13-29mm.html

All links and tested obd2 cable are in post below. most what you want is near end of post. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10869-help-forester-diagnostics/#entry63645

Kits do exist, cruise control not that complex really, it just controlling throttle & reading speed signal data. If you google cruise control kits you will get some results/info. The kits can work with most cars & have settings to work with varying types of manufacturer sensors, come with stalk or dash mounted control unit.

standard blades from anywhere will fit, I found the aero flat blades good for money, think you have 24'' & 19" blade, just measure them to be sure & check wiper arm is standard j hook on end (umbrella handle looking hook)

Shocks can be improved with the grease nipples but not many garages will know about it so likely want try going for a subaru specialist or very good independent willing to give it a go ... clunk on throttle lift off likely be backlash in transmission/prop/rear diff or mount/bushing and certainly worth looking at. Rattling behind dash likely be related to recent work such as conversion jobs or an alarm perhaps. i've had quite a few imports where conversion work had be revisited due to rattles or elec faults from brash work. Brakes likely be new pads fitted poorly or some dirt/metal scale caught in pad causing the noise, would of thought Torque would do some of this under warranty or good faith . Problem with Torque is they inconsistent with quality in terms of car grade & pre sale prep .

I would go with the Forester ...

Do measure it up, I do recall at least 2 sizes of filters on SF model with 99-on possibly being slightly bigger of the 2 !?

MANN cu1526 . I believe that will fit yours ! http://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER%20Katalog%20Europa/Cabin%20Filter/CU%201526

SG

Model generation SF SG SH SJ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Forester

I'm 6'3 & find them ok, do think a slightly smaller steering wheel would of helped though as it hangs quite low even when tilt set as high as possible. SF is my personal favourite.

SF is more ruggid. bumpers, roof bars, rear boot handle & interior material is far more wear durable, earlier wishbone mountings are far better design too. Still all pretty good though but I really do dislike the bumper design on the SG as highly impractical design & increases vehicle overhang & length without real need & they easily scraped & knocked due to this plus being colour coded makes even smallest scrapes look tatty & colour painting is not cheap.

They not bad at all, amazingly versatile all rounder & quite cheap to run/maintain generally ...