Mr B

i would road test it & log data via ssm first myself. RR cost a lot more to do same thing really .

O2 is narrow band so unlikely be issue, I would be looking at maf with multimeter checks & perhaps a clean if readings show nothing out of spec. tps needs looking at to with multimeter for checks. Being a 99 it should have obd2 style diagnostics so will work with ssm diagnostics so you can run O2 sensor tests & view/log live sensor data & see if anything amiss . plumbing in fuel gauge to test line pressure & regulator function would be good. If over fuelling your spark plugs should show evidence of this. Compression test would be smart just get quick idea of engine health. injector test would be good if nothing else shows up.

Yeh you can check for fluid but generally they not leaking, it normally an internal valving issue with the sls that causes it to not work & sag. Generally anyone questioning it has some level of sag, worse case on sls is about 50mm drop . It a good sign car done a fair bit of towing or been on real rough B roads/farm tracks as 92k not a lot for them, I see original sls on SG foresters like yours at almost twice that mileage under lighter use & probably more motorway miles. The KYB stuff is good way go & parts have 2yr warranty. Can effect handling, especially if one side only failed.

Have you pinned it down to bearing then . Least easy to do & not ridiculously expensive but indeed a bummer . Bearing quality is awful in some of the cheaper & even not so cheap obscure brands, I can't afford the risk of using poor quality parts so am super fussy on this stuff. Bearings are one of those areas where you got choose right brand & it not always more expensive & if is it not by much. You can get bearing kits for as little as £15 but they are awful, even comparing some well known brands to ntn & nsk is night & day in precision & quality consistency.

I would be checking maf, tps switch, general hoses & connectors, fuel pressure, fuel injectors for jet leak/drip/flow rate etc. what do spark plugs look like ? do a pic ...

No these are mechanical valves & height is adjust using the struts own ride motion to pump the fluid to maintain a set height . Ideally you want look at it on level ground, in good order rear should look pert. If not towing you could use it like it for some time. Replacing is obviously the best route & not overly costly usng KYB parts, Struts springs & all parts would cost around £240 & fitting is easy (1hr for garage) A job you could do yourself if spanner handy.

Sagging on the rear is common sign of failing rear SLS. New SLS is very very expenxive as the SLS tokiko struts are only available from Subaru. If struts not leaking they will pass MOT ok but if intending keep vehicle a while then replacing would be very wise. You can use KYB struts though & kyb flex springs for replacement option, if towing a lot you may be better use springcoil custom spec'd springs to match towing needs. Thread below with links for parts > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/

^ sfk & even koyo not bad but there is a reason why subaru, nissan & just about all jap manufacturers & engineers use ntn & nsk in preference . ntn & nsk also sensible price at £44 or under for bearing kit.

Lucas bearings kits tend be orbis bearings & they not very good. Use a stethoscope to listen to each rear hub. or when drive it rock it left to right to see if nose reduces & pinpoint the one at fault. I seen cheap bearings fail real quick, the cartridge also super fussy on fitting & press catching inner bearing rather than just outer bearing sleeve can kill um. I only use ntn or nsk , ICP do them for around £40 (do stipulate want jap ntn or nsk as they also do german bearings) Euro car parts are awful in respect to selling poor quality brands just so can price well, they sell some right monkey metal junk .

Think you will struggle find a worthy turbo SF (mk1) for 1K. Was one on autotrader that was non starter (fuel pump immobilizer issue) which was well cheap & looked clean/interesting. You'll pick up a decent sport SF or AWP SF for about 1K though. Rust not major issue unless car spent some time in coastal area or farm use or not cleaned well. rear arch lips can rot & rear subframe & chassis & sills need a look at as can be rotted when subjected to harsh environment & no early treatment. I'm a big fan of the SF, nicer styling shape & build is far more solid & interiors wear far far better. As a driver you ideally want the turbo but you going need travel a bit to find one & add a bit more to the purchase fund to make it a worthy one. Certainly good car for cumbria :-) good luck.

local breakers is good way for set (fob, alarm ecu) & always worth trying as may have a few other odd bit making it worthwhile effort.

Does sound like was radio interference. If just want get keypad working you just need pick up another keypad If want try new alarm ecu then need keyfob to program yourself easily. Sounds like you have the old non revised m30 alarm ecu, they did replace them under warranty, would be worth you looking for a later revised alarm ecu too but just getting keypad done first if can't find good alarm ecu/keyfob pair would be good & keep you out of trouble.

Seems you got issues with immobilizer circuits I would remove or if you want play about yourself & save a few £ try find another one from a breakers which has one fob still with it, take the main brain & keypad & then use instructions above to reprogram. I done a few that way but sometimes it a pain to find one.

Alarm no hassle just don't leave your keys in car with doors shut as in some instance alarm will arm or activate central locking then you locked out :-) keys best in hand then is sirin starts squeeling you can blip it off. not sure on your radio code so check that with the radio manual.

Have you grounded the CEL wire to ECU & found CEL light works ? You also want test what the CEL input terminal is doing at ign on (should be switched earth while light on then if no faults open circuit) Best thing to do if running out of ideas is disconnect battery pull plugs out of ecu & check/clean them with electrical contact cleaner then reconnect & run engine & see what happens in terms of CEL & if error codes returning. certainly not a lot wrong but could be hard pinpoint.

^ you probably looking at what feeds to the keypad !

Its an option, what I have done for customers before is get hold of alarm ecu & one keyfob from a breaker & reprogram it to original keyfob & set new pin. Cheap & easy, you could do that yourself, trick is need one working remote but generally it not that hard find a breaker which still got a key-fob with it . Some dealers have replacement alarm set still available & that about £225 I think .

Yeh ideally want remove glovebox . If playing with arial position or extending arial into a loop on end,, checking the harness plug & spraying contact cleaner on it does not make good enough improvement you probably looking at needing new alarm ecu as fault will be receiver. Certainly worth testing you 4 digit pin code to be sure you know how use it & it correct/works as you would be up 5hit creek without it if remote system fails work completely .

Is it a Sigma alarm ! (one button on the all in one key-remote & manual keypad input panel in flipdown coin tray near drivers right knee ?) Do you know your 4 digit pin & know how use it ? as could be handy if fully unable use remote ... M30 main ecu is under dash area near glovebox, they have a dangling black wire which is the receiver antenna, some times repositioning this upwards & clear of interference items can help, also check the connector that takes the receiver wire is securely plugged into the alarm ecu. Do you have more than one remote & do both have same issue !? Worse case scenario is receiver board bad.

antenna needs repositioning or extending on the receiver ....

^ yep 230 (car reg before 1st march 2001 & over 1549cc) if up front 1-off payment . http://carfueldata.dft.gov.uk/new-vehicle-tax.aspx?t=23ude39 https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/419799/V149_Budget_2015_Final_version.pdf

^ great versatile classic & should be useful in Cumbria . turbo model & sport model sf generally easier find in better condition but could take a while. I always keep an eye open in my area for good sf's & they don't crop up often but are a great buy when do & super easy sell on plus a pre 2000 model saves you around £50 on road tax which not a bad thing :-)

the sf is absolute superb . far better built & far better looking than sg sh models . find one with sensible mileage & good history & you will be more than happy . very easy work on too . cam belts are not that expensive & head gasket more a concern of 2.5l engine.

eBay or a local breakers is your best option, local breakers being cheaper. Any forester from late 20002 to 2008 will be same motor.

depends on reason of failure. Good sign of poor servicing or cheap oil. common problem is filter built into banjo bolt for oil feed blocks & restricts oil so the oil feed needs checking before bolting new turbo on or new turbo will be dead in few miles. Used turbo not too expensive & can be quite cheap repair if know a good turbo rebuild specialist.but to play safe put £800 on it, used decent turbo could be £200, good one if you like spanner work yourself, would want everything else A1 on the car though or you off to a bad start :-/