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Nice plate - any idea of how much you are looking for it ?

Sounds like a good car - hopefully you should have a quick sale

Hope you manage to source one - seems subframes are a massive issue on many makes of vehicles nowadays and chronic shortages worldwide at the mo, I guess they thought it would never have been an issue - last subframe I changed was on an old school Mini - rear one as the front ones didn't rust as the engine leaked oil over the subframe so wasn't an issue :-)

If its a heavy clutch then it may be misaligned or clamped down unevenly when fitted. I would go over to the next one you see in a car park, etc and ask if you can try their clutch to see how it differs

Hopefully someone on here maybe able to assist you soon?

Try these companies: https://carwindowregs.co.uk/ https://www.windowregulatorman.co.uk

To be fair, I do wonder about tightening certain fasteners with torque wrenches as you cannot (without crack testing) evaluate the condition of the fasteners and the parts being clamped. When I started out in the motor trade over 45 years ago, the only time we used a torque wrench was for cylinder head bolts, hub nuts and wheel nuts. The rest of the time it was usually tightened to FT and you can almost feel the yield point of the tightened nut or bolt. Caught a cold many years back when torquing up bolts only to find they sheared....can you guarantee the condition of the components, how the wrench is used correctly and is it calibrated accurately. Also, the common problem is that if a NutGun has been used to tighten fasteners in the past then this can also stretch the bolts rendering them unusable. In answer to your question, I would tighten them by hand (never use NutGuns as I see so many doing nowadays) and I would add a thin smear of nut or thread lock to ensure it doesn't work loose even if it is slightly under tightened. If you're using the correct wrenches, sockets, ratchet or breaker bar you will know when it is tight and seated correctly without killing it with brute force

Not personally but we will be shortly publishing a list of Subaru garages for Premium Members within the next few weeks

Crikey thats a mess - one way I have sorted issues like this before is to remove every wire that is non-original so that it goes back to standard and then you can work forwards from there Worth taking some notes and photos of where the wiring goes in case you want to put it back how it was

Bargain car for the money

I would keep pushing for it and especially if there is any hint of safety related issues resulting from the defective component

Have you a price in mind? any more details on the car?

I would use eBay as my starting point - get most of my spares and parts from there

Good result - apart from the odd 'human error' glitches by the fitters. I would as a precaution run a torque wrench around all the wheel bolts to ensure they are not too loose or especially too tight where they used the nutgun

Thanks for the recommendation and also that they did a first class job on your transmission - glad it had the desired outcome

Shame that its started to show its age now but wouldn't take a lot to get it back up together - great car for someone who can do the work

Crikey thats low miles - can't be much wrong with such low miles - I would say have the fuel removed from the tank and refill with fresh and also change the fuel filter. Possibly also run some injection cleaner through the fuel system to clear it through

Hi...welcome to the Forums Quite possibly the Legacy is an import model and thats why it is not being recognised in parts systems. Most motor factors or even eBay are good sources of reputable parts - and by reputable I mean branded and not always the cheapest but the best for the car. Try eBay search for your vehicle and see what comes up for it

If the injectors are over-injecting and / or the spray pattern isn't as it should be (I know you said you replaced them) but once fitted its hard to see what is occurring under combustion pressures.

Borg and Beck used to be a British company with a great reputation - however I don't know who owns the company now and where the parts are made - I usually go by price and work down to a respectable amount and a lot of factors now describe the parts as budget, recommended, OE spec, etc and the adage is that you get what you pay for at the end of the day

Haynes produce an online catalogue of manuals so I'm pretty sure there will be something listed - have managed to get ones for my cars and bikes recently and they are factory spec so accurate and also you can print off specific pages to take out to the vehicle which is handy

I'm sure eBay would have something listed

Vacuum leaks is the first place I would have gone as it sounds like it's drawing unregulated air (ahead of the MAF upstream) causing it run run lean. The fuel system then takes it rich and you are then dealing with higher revs - you don't want to experience that on a two-stroke as it leads to a runaway engine (not a good outcome). I would run a smoke test on it and see where the cracks and splits are in the hoses, gaskets, etc very cheap and easy diagnosis and 100% accurate

I agree with @Tidgy and may just be something simple like a cracked hose, pipe, seized wastegate actuator - so many things it can be but a specialist will more than likely find it straight away.