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If the fuel is washing down into the bores and then diluting the oil I am guessing it may be a little on the overfuelling side of things...I have known a wiring loom chafing through the insulation and grounding an earth on an injector before - chance find really as it was over the gearbox.

Having just looked it up it seems to be the correct part number However, I do wonder if they are made for Subaru and come unbranded as such or if it is a cheap Chinese knockoff product? Either way if Subaru are carrying out the work and replacing the parts which they have sourced if there are any issues then its down to them

Congratulations and welcome to the Club Enjoy it and let us know how you get on with it

Please let us know how you get on with it

It sounds very likely that you may have a leak in the intercooler or associated hoses. Best bet is to run a leak check using a smoke generator which will instantly show up any holes, splits, etc

I certainly agree with the statement that AWD / 4WD vehicles need to have exactly (as near as possible) the same rolling diameter for all four wheels.....as does any vehicle that has ABS and Traction Control essentially. I would be tempted to keep the other tyres if there is still loads of wear left in them and plant them on the car when the others reach a certain level or are damaged in some way

I'll keep an eye out for a diesel engine version for you but your other post states that you are now looking at the petrol version which I think may be the best bet going forwards

From my memory reading all the issues on the diesel engine you may be wise to consider the petrol version. Additionally with tighter restrictions on diesel engines it is another nail in the coffin

Well thats a bitter sweet win I guess, It does make you wonder about whether all this tech is necessary but if its fitted its got to be working :-(

Thanks for posting the indepth review on how you have been living with the Subaru over the months - I think sometimes the best time to review is after a longer period than a week or so. I've had many cars (and bikes) that once the rose-tinted spectacles were removed they were not what I was hoping for. I actually found Alfa Romeos to be rather good cars (electrical gremlins aside) 😆

You seemed to have approached it in the right sequence and covering all the bases - The areas of concern I was thinking of you have already listed: Removed the exhaust just in case it was blocked No air leaks, smoke tested. 40kpa on idle Fundamentally, the engine requires air to enter and exit from the cylinders, the above have always been the culprit in similar situations (Mondeo's used to suffer from the Cat breaking up and the 'brick' dropping down which restricted the flow and wouldn't rev up) Air leaks are common in this situation as well but if you are not seeing smoke then there are no leaks present. If the engine is sound, e.g. valve timing, etc then I'm stumped as well - but if it went to a garage beforehand and they may have changed a setting or two then I would be tempted to return it to stock settings as much as possible and go from there. Please do let us know what you find

I use a iCarsoft multimake scan tool and I'm pretty sure I have Subaru capabilities with going through either a generic mode or Toyota - only costs about £130 and covers 10 makes in all

I wonder if a parts expert could give you the part number (eBay has a similar feature) and then you can see what else it fits within the Subaru range and will then open up your search criteria

sounds like a win all round to me :-)

Oh wow! haven't seen a properly blueprinted engine in years - superb job on the build and nice to see proper and correct procedures used for making sure the precision is there to avoid any damage. Must have cost a fortune but I won't ask how much - I usually say to my Mrs that it is at least half of what I actually spent and the usual answer is that you don't spend that much on me 🤣 Superb power curves on the dyno - it sure is a beast !

Cheers @Tidgy look forward to seeing them

Have you got any pics to post up of the engine rebuild in stages (kind of a fetish for me :-)

wow! that's a hell of a shopping list and should last you for many years to come - assuming not full boost all the time :-)

Anyone able to help out here - recovering is all I can suggest but thats expensive

Thanks for sharing, its great to know that if built correctly they can last the longest. I recently bought an old 2 stroke Vespa PX and any time I asked someone about reliability of top end conversions, they all came back and said "it depends on who built it" I have never heard that expression used with cars but bikes, a whole different breed. Glad to hear the engine is holding out and staying strong!

Can anyone shine some light on a good garage they can recommend in this area ?

the switches should fit into the blank slots I would think - of course you would have to buy the switches separately but if everything else is there I wonder if the wiring is there but not extended to the switch location if not fitted from the factory - I wonder if there is an extention lead to plug into the existing harness - I would look for someone selling the same seats on eBay and you can see what is included which will give you an idea of what you need

You could always run it to a new speed sensor which you can take from road speed (wheel hub) or from the transmission - demontweeks.com will have loads of options available

If it were me, I would polish the affected wear area with grades of emery or sandpaper then the new seal will expand to fit the shaft - if it has gone too far then a new shaft or a sleeve (you used to be able to buy them for different diameter shafts

Nice car - good luck with the sale