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lol - like the old days - rope on the engine across your shoulders and hoist it out Nowadays, its a case of lifting the body off the subframe and pull the whole lot out

A very original and solid car - will definitely sparkle with some elbow grease

Sometimes you just got to put them side by side and measure everything as there could be so many variables between them. Let us know how you get on with it all and good to see some pics of good old driveway maintenance

Not sure what to suggest but maybe if you can find a part number and see if it pops up for any other models?

Not sure what is available in the US but the UK has quite a few suppliers of seat covers for what you are looking for. UK Custom CoversUK Custom Covers | Car Covers, Seat Covers, Floor MatsShop quality custom covers for all vehicle makes & models. Car covers, seat covers, boot liners & more. 100% tailored design. Strong, durable & waterproof Materials. Next day delivery available, 30-da

To be fair I have not heard of such a requirement - how do vintage and classic cars get around it? If any of the structure components is non load bearing (such as a shield, brackets, etc) then it should be fine - clearly a good clean up to inspect and refit in a better condition. All other components I would replace such as securing bolts, etc but I don't know how they would check that on an MOT. However, it is more common sense to not fit any defective or rusty parts back on the car

try DemonTweeks as they stock many different pumps and can advise on which would be best to fit https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/

I'm not entirely sure (memory fades with age) but used to fit those to Japanese Import cars to convert to UK use?

strange one! its not a Japanese import model is it?

Not sure if these are any good for the job? https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/catalogsearch/result/index/?cat=1879&p=2&q=tow There are towing eyes that may(?) work but not sure of the boat weight/size. Also on the next page is a towing frame and subframe that would be more robust

I would always recommend replacing anything that has spun at engine revs along with the belt as its all done the same work over time - false economy to not change everything while you're in there

Sometimes worth following the instructions but if not then try different combinations of the procedures. I had a Honda CRF1000 motorbike and couldn't reset the DCT, followed all the instructions then asked for help on a group and someone said - "you didn't have the side stand down?" - of course straight away it worked after that but just goes to show its sometimes the little things that need looking at. Another example was Range Rover air suspension resets - it wouldn't work if any of the doors were open 😒

Can't see any other reason than poor quality hose (which would also make the others suspect). Equally, it could have been damaged during production or during packaging?

Good luck in your search - may need to widen it to European countries as well?

https://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/25046-anti-theft-alarm-on-key-fob-not-responding/#comment-166857 Here is a link to a previous comment in the club to the same issue you are experiencing. Hopefully it will help to guide you to a fix solution

This is a UK club but not many events for some time now - feel free to organise some if you wish and we'll see how many we can encourage to attend

You could also try EuroCarParts for complete hub assembly

Mostly eBay are a good source as you can match the selection of parts to your car

I recently commissioned a rebuilt engine on a classic Fiat and the first thing I did was to write a list in stages. Stage 1 - check all fluids, turn engine by hand for a few cycles, see if there is spark and fuel there. Stage 2 - Ensure battery is charged, disconnect coil so no spark, watch for fuel spraying through into engine Stage 3 - Assuming no noises or locking up the connect coil and turn over to ensure oil light extinguishes and hopefully the engine fires up....switch off almost immediately to check for leaks and any other checks you can do Good luck

Third-generation (1998–2004) Subaru Legacy models typically use H7 or H4 bulbs for low/high beams, depending on the specific headlight design (projector or reflector). Key bulb sizes includeH1/H7/H4 for headlights, 1156/PY21W for turn signals, and P21/5W for tail lights. There is also a site which lists in more detail the size and specs of the bulbs https://www.powerbulbs.com/vehicles/cars/uk-ireland/subaru/legacy-gen3/1998-2004/car-headlight-bulbs

Not sure, but worth checking the tyre sizes are all exactly the same dimensions, tyre pressures good and tread wear even before going any further into replacing parts or expensive garage bills

You could try Adrian Flux and quote Subaru Owners Club - they may be able to offer advice and a cheaper quote https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/oci/?utm_source=SubaruOwnersClub

I would imagine they are for tying the car down when being transported rather than for towing behind a car on a rope or bar. There is always the alternative to fit an aftermarket tow eye https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=tow

I use Castrol's Oil Selector site to determine specifications for the correct oil (whether you use castrol or another brand), make sure you go by the ACI specs (ACEA C3 / API SN/CF, etc) rather than the weight of the oil (e.g. 5w30) https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/product-finder.html?page=recommendedProducts&id=89704

Thanks for the feedback Brian Unfortunately, Halfords knocked down the discount level earlier this year and we need to see this level remain stable before printing new cards with this % printed on it.