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Hi, I've got an ongoing issue with my 93 WRX import with flatspots/hesitation in the power delivery. I've changed the MAF from a working car and tried a working knock sensor of another car but after an ECU reset I am still getting code 22 through the check engine light and still have the hesitation. I have took a reading of 5 volts from the connector the knock sensor plugs into on mine but on a working Impreza (94 wagon import) and that only shows 3 volts on the same connector. Is my higher voltage causing the circuit to indicate an error and the ECU to change the fueling - hence the loss of power and flatspots etc? What is the voltage the Knock sensor circuit should be running at? Could a short in the wiring cause the high voltage? Or am I looking in the wrong place and the engine is just knackered?

Hi, I've got an ongoing issue with my 93 WRX import with flatspots/hesitation in the power delivery. I've changed the MAF from a working car and tried a working knock sensor of another car but after an ECU reset I am still getting code 22 through the check engine light and still have the hesitation. I have took a reading of 5 volts from the connector the knock sensor plugs into on mine but on a working Impreza (94 wagon import) and that only shows 3 volts on the same connector. Is my higher voltage causing the circuit to indicate an error and the ECU to change the fueling - hence the loss of power and flatspots etc? What is the voltage the Knock sensor circuit should be running at? Could a short in the wiring cause the high voltage? Or am I looking in the wrong place and the engine is just knackered?

Hi, my 93 WRX import has been running a rough idle and hesitation for a while now without any engine light coming on. Last week the engine light finally triggered and using the connectors under the dash I managed to get code 22 out of it which I believe is the knock sensor. I took the old sensor out and it has 2 or 3 cracks through the plastic so I can safely assume its pretty terminal. Over the weekend I picked up a 2nd hand knock sensor from a Subaru breakers as I wanted to try and get the job done yesterday. Fitted it but it appears to make no difference, still got rough idle and engine light on the dash. I tried hooking up the diagnostic connectors under the dash again in an attempt to reset the ECU but this was still flashing up as code 22. I have checked the voltage on the wire that the knock sensor plugs into and I'm getting 5 volts. When the knock sensor is plugged in I only get about 3 volts from the metal off the bottom of it. So my question well questions are is that a normal reading? Should the voltage drop like that or is the sensor I picked up no good? Have I missed something with the ECU reset? Do I need to unhook the battery for 24 hours or is there an easier and quicker way to do it? I am nowhere near an electrician but trying to learn the tricks as I go along so any help, hints, tips, kick in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

Ah ok I see. Well the fact that your other windows worked still is different to me and sort of scuppers my idea that if one went they all went as it would not be a complete circuit. I might try another control box but I think that is ok as it seems to send out signals when I had the voltmeter against it. I think it is a wiring or earth issue somewhere but don't really know where to look. Does anyone know of a way to manually get a window back up?

Hi Dan, that is the definition of an odd problem. Glad you got it sorted. By control box do you mean the 4 switches and lock button on the drivers door or is there a box somewhere in the dash? When you had the issue did any of the other windows work from their switches or did they all stop working?

Hi, I have got a 93 JDM WRX and I'm having what I assume is an electrical issue with my windows(I'm no electrician but looking to learn as much as I can). The drivers side window has never worked, I tested the circuit and it seems to be getting a current when the switch is pressed at the green connector that goes into the wire through to the back of the motor so I assume the motor is shot but the other 3 all worked from the drivers panel and the individual switches. I have started stripping the car as I'm looking to use it for rallying eventually and when I took the rear door cards off I took the switches off with them which stopped the rear windows from working(I assume because the circuit was not complete) but the passenger window still worked from the drivers panel and the passenger switch. Over the weekend I re-attached the switches to the rear window circuits and they started working again from the individual switches and the drivers panel. Ok so all was good at this point, 3 out of the 4 were working which I could live for now. I then removed all the carpets and roof lining and took the speaker out of the drivers door. On re-attaching the door card none of my windows now work from any switch. I have tested the panel and it is getting power and with the back off when a switch is pressed the volt meter shows a spike so it looks like it is doing something. When I re-tested the green connector on the wire that goes into the motor on the drivers door it now no longer registers any activity on the tester. So does anyone have any idea what could be the issue? I've looked online and I can't see anything about a fuse for the windows but is there one? Could this be an earthing issue and if so how do I go about testing and diagnosing it? Any help would be greatly appreciated as the passenger window is currently stuck down. Is there a way to force the window back up? Can I put a charge through the motor to put the window up? Again thanks in advance.

The picture quality is great thanks, just trying to work out where to look on mine as from memory not much looks the same. I'll print out the picture and have a hunt when I'm underneath the car but definitely don't remember seeing a spring like that. If I was to get a picture of my slave cylinder and upload would you be able to tell me if I'm missing something?

I didn't take any springs off when bleeding from the slave but to be honest I haven't noticed any springs. Where do I need to be looking?

Hi Guys, Started doing some work on the new car I picked up and I've ran into an issue whilst bleeding the clutch. The car is 93 JDM WRX and when I had it the clutch bite was almost on the floor and I was getting the odd crunch on gear change so thought I'd start by changing the fluid to see if it helped. My master cylinder doesn't have a bleed nipple(or doesn't appear to have one) so I've bled the system from the slave cylinder. I've bled the system by having a bleeding kit connected to the nipple, loosening the bolt a bit and having someone press the clutch down, then tighten the bolt and have them pull the clutch up. Repeated this process and topped up fluid in master until the fluid coming through the pipe was nice and clean and as far as I can tell there is no air bubbles. Now for the problem. The clutch peddle does not return all the way to the top like it used to. Instead it pops back up about a third of the way maybe a little less and then you can bring the peddle up all the way manually but doing this there is a very much mechanical clunk. When then putting the clutch peddal down, it drops instantly with another mechanical clunk to the third of the way down point and then it feels like a "normal" clutch again with hydraulic feel. I think the clutch is working in the bottom part as with the clutch fully down I can change between gears smoothly (with engine off due to alarm(another issue but one at a time)) but I need to get the 2/3rds part of the clutch with no feel sorted. Is this down to a faulty master cylinder or does the pedal need adjusting where it connects to the cylinder linkage? Is it more simple then that and I have indeed got air in the system? Apologies if this a simple issue or repeated question - I'm a noob I will admit it but I'm trying to learn by getting my hands dirty. Thanks in advance.