matmidgley

4 years later, rebuilt and forged. bigger turbo, injectors, induction kit, fmic, 6 speed swap and lots more induction was getting a lot of heat soak, have added a cold air feed and barrier from the turbo but not been back on dyno yet

Well, had it back since about september. Has not been smooth sailing, had a few problems which should not of been with a well rep builder. 1st up had it overheat about 2 weeks into getting her back, coolant was not returning to the turbo tank. luckily I noticed before damage was done. After investigating I found that the wrong radiator cap had been put back on. (mishimoto rad installed by builder, mishimoto 1.3bar cap on top tank but the header 1.1bar was put on the radiator instead of the 1.37), then found loose clamps on hoses and leaks from coolant system. After that there was a weep from the turbo feed oil hose which quickly turned into a cloud of smoke from the scoop (this was also supplied by them) after trying to nip it up a few times with no luck, i removed to find a home made badly drilled banjo. Have since replaced that and the hose and the leak has gone. But now it seems I am having it randomly fire on 3 cyl and missfires, I think it may be a leaking injector (also supplied and fit) as can smell fuel on passenger side. Oil on the dipstick smells strongly of petrol changed twice in 4k miles. Beginning to wish I had gone elsewhere. Did not make the numbers I expected after buying everything suggested, after first mapping session started to run lean and stall. took it back and made slightly better and no longer stalls but not quite right. could now be running too rich... I have picked up a fmic and will get a short ram induction next and hopefully see better numbers. Made just under 390/430 will try bob rawle mapping next, i think he does it near me.

Too true lol. Cannot wait to get it back haha. Will be very different from when i sent it. Fyi my ringland symtoms were nothing like I had seen online, no oil use, no smoke, running nicely. I thought it was head gasket as it was overflowing from coolant expansion, but no other symtoms. Once stripped he confirmed 1 cracked ringland.

I was going to stick to opensource which could of enabled those afaik but he said id be limited to 400bhp Just went with simtek as all the parts are being put back together from Rich at fflat4 via wms and they use Steve simpson for mapping and is what they recommended. Should of planned it better from the start tho lol, bought new clutch n flywheel for 5 speed as was gonna chance it for a bit. And then abandonned that idea. So will be selling them. Also bought a VF48 before ringland failure as was gonna map and never used that either. What started as a 5k budget got smashed and then some....

I gave in, bought 6 speed upgrade. Simtek ecu for maffless, al and launch control, 750cc Injectors and RCM 340lph fuel pump. All getting fitted this week coming and booked in for mapping on 19th :)

Its been a while since posted here, car developed ringland few weeks ago with 1 cracked ringland. The amount of time and effort I have put in getting her like I want I decided to rebuild. Its currently with Andy Williams at WMS being forged. Along with a few other mods: Forged Build Scoobyworx 3 port boost solenoid Omni 4 Bar map sensor Precision turbo 5530 Sti intercooler Exedy Pink Box Stage1 Clutch cant wait to get it back, next on the list will be 6 speed upgrade

Its sorted and it was something stupid... The Dump valve bung had worked one side slightly out but enough to be effecting the air and causing problems. going to be putting a better clamp on :)

mine is the same, i just leave the lights on all the time anyway as they go off with the engine.

is that the neutral position switch? I have seen that pop up a bit with symptoms

been mapped for over 3 years now. air filter is a month old so could be a sensor/maf/or leak. guess i start with cheapest and work from there

no induction mods, i do have others and they were mapped in and it has been running fine until recently. i have cleaned the maf and then swapped for another but no difference. i have found a very small amount of oil in the y pipe if I run my finger around the pipe but thought that was normal. I have cleaned the throttle body, was not that dirty, does the hawkeye have a iacv? I was leaning towards a vacuum leak but its hard to find it, if it is. its just weird how the mpg has increased since the problems have started lol. thought about fuel filter but expensive ti change on a whim. I will look into the pcv valve thanks.

u reckon? its only got 50k on the clock and no slips or smells. revs will also dip when in neutral

Hi, Having a few problems with my scoob recently. under about 2.5k rpm it feels jerky, occasionally when coming to a stop the revs drop really low sounds like its about to cut out but never has so far. over 2.5k rpm or at wot its fine, not jerky it boosts properly and pulls like a train it only seems to be at low revs. but weirdly my MPG has gone up, i was getting 21-22 constantly for last 3-4 years, its now gone up to 24.9 over last couple months?? it was worse once warm but now its doing it from cold also. There is no CEL, no codes when read with obd2 scanner. I have tried changing some of the vacuum pipes the smaller 4-6mm ones and the brake booster which made no difference, I have ordered some new spark plugs (only done 13k since last change) and a new gasket for dump valve.

I am after hawkeye rear bumper in O2C must be good condition ready to go straight on

I had them off a few times as I experimented with wrapping first, just have to work out where the clips are and pry them out. use something wider than a screwdriver and plastic otherwise you will mark the dash.

This was asked in another post not long ago, I did mine nearly a year ago and looks as good as when I first did it. also did the door bits where the window buttons are, the vents and my outside mirror covers. I use normal dash polish on it and had no problems, the outside is washed just as I do the rest of the car so its pretty hard wearing. it does attract a bit more dust than before but nothing major. Prep work, just clean it no sanding needed and I just left it to dry where I sprayed it, I can't remember drying times but it was just as it says on the can, think I did 3 or 4 coats.

very very easy, just made a spray booth out of a large cardboard box. cleaned it all down and sprayed it. also did my side mirror cases and door switch and speaker surround.

I did my console but I added the glossifier over the top

here's mine 2006 Hawk WRX , cosworth filter, full decat, SWRD Colossus 290lph Fuel Pump , standard td04 open source map

I recently had this same problem on my hawkeye

The one I got for android was about £7, works good. It only gives u the code number which u then google. not sure if they work the same on iphone

And there was a lot of water inside the valves it poured out once tilted. Bad design

Yeah i left the pipe also, Looked far to much hassle lol. The hidden bolt was much easier with a 1/4" knuckle but i did strip 2 sockets trying to undo it, Cheap crap. i found the valve took a lot of prying and swearing to pry it up and I cut the baro sensor off the r/h valve although i read conflicting threads if it was needed on a 06 but did it anyway. And ziptied it where the air pump used to be.

Got the valves and pump out yesterday. And put the blanking plates on. All running nice and no more fumes smell. Was a bit a chew getting to the second valve hidden bolt and then the bottom bolt from pipe. Took 2 days in the end as had to order more tools for the job

I use http://www.fuelly.com/car/subaru/impreza/2006/MATMIDGLEY/325897 To keep an eye on mine.