Piggysniffer

oh, not sure, what years your car, would have to have a look at the number on the top to be certain

Now I don't know what to think .... 😆

that's cool mate, I can meet you in Worthing bout 10am tomorrow if ya want

I'm in Chichester, just thinkin wether I could meet ya half way or summat to try the maf

Who , me or will ?

I did also read that if your secondary air pump seizes up it can create so much load on the ecu that it can actually damage it and cause running problems

I have got a noise like that when mine starts pulling timing as it comes on boost, the only way I can describe it is it sounds like something moving/spinning is touching something else very slightly and it sounds like it's happening inside a tube, I know that sounds odd, but that's how it sounds to me, it may be that the noise is a product of the timing having been pulled tho, and not a reason for it, it's odd tho

Where bouts are you ?

I f@kin love you two lol

Good heads up there mate, thanks 👍

The unplugging of the maf test is pure garbage, it doesn't prove anything either way, it's another thing I have googled the cra p out of trying to diagnose my car When you unplugged the maf did the revs change at all, and did they change when you plugged it back in, did it put the cel on

Morning all does anyone know if the retractable load cover/parcel shelf from a newage wagon will fit a hawkeye wagon 🙄

haha, awesome

Ha ! And I suppose also my car probs ain't the best to take as an example lol

Nope, fixed air leaks didn't stop mine, nor did knock sensor, o2 sensor, maf, plugs, throttle body, electric throttle pedal, air filter etc like I say, I had months of it and I trawled the net for months, its a sign in ringland damage, it's a sign of bad avcs, bad plugs or gaps, fuel pressure problems etc etc, but the more I trawled the more a certain thing popped up and that was the transition of closed and open loop being a big factor due to the tune, and from what I can remember mappers I think were changing something to do with that altho as usual, you only have the people with a problem posting up mostly so don't really mean it's a hawk thing I suppose ? As 8 out of 10 hawk owners might not have it

I did air leaks religiously, and then found more so treble checked.... And found more.... Cable tied and clipped everything, thing is as these age the pipes harden and then leak a little tiny bit, but there are so many pipes on the engine that can leak and make up a rather impressive total leak, barring any holes splits or popped off pipes of course

Just google it scoobs, there millions doing it ......... Edit :- the common consensus was that it was a problem with the closed to open loop stage causing it

They suffer badly with it mate, I had it on mine, I googled the cra p out of it and it's almost accepted that a lot of Hawks just do this, I changed loads of stuff chasing mine but in the end got a remap and that got rid of that particular problem was your comp test with a cold engine

Yep, in the inner wing, your air scoop feeds it and then your airbox is pushed onto it

Mines a hawk too and it's mildly jerky when cold (before and after mapping)so I just keep it out of boost for a few minutes, that's mostly if I just start it and drive pretty much straight off, not so bad if warmed up a bit before drive, sounds like you need to load ecu defs into the logger, I'm shi te with computing but I managed it after much reading 🙂👍

Romraider is fine mate, I use it for logging mostly, but you can also add revs and take away timing with it ect, I've not got it set up to flash the ecu or anything like that, that's a whole different thing For logging you just need a vag com cable and the software from the romraider site and you can plug in your lappy and see exactly what the engines doing, you really will wonder how you got along without it

Yes to be expected for sure, I would imagine your avcs gears have got some in too as they are renowned for it after an engine eats itself, 2bar at 1000 sounds good to me, maybe set your tickover to 900

have googled the cra p outta this and it seems that there are a lot of folks saying 12-14psi at hot idle is fine, although 20+ seems to be the prominent figure, specs are 14psi at hot idle, give or take oil viscosity used and temp, age of oil etc etc, all you can do is keep an eye on it really, did you find any bearing flakes or any signs in the sump when you removed it for the pickup

What oil you running owen369

What's a good gauge scoobs ? Been browsing the bay of hades and they mostly look cheap n orrible