Piggysniffer

12v doesn't mean it's ok, the only way to know for sure would be a drop/load test on the battery, if it's brand new you would think it should be fully charged but that may not be the case, I can't see it being hydro locked as you said it happened straight away which I'm assuming was soon as key was turned and before any/much fuel was injected ?? And also cos it turns over with the crank nut, without seeing the car I'm thinking battery or starter or associated wiring

I know it sounds daft but is the new battery definately fully charged

Did you get the clunk straight away as soon as you went to turn it over, or did it turn over a couple of times and then the clunk

If it turns over with a spanner/socket, make sure it turns the proper way and see if you can run it through a few full revolutions to make are nothing is hitting anything internally and that you have good compression then look at the starter motor, see if that's crapped out

Can you get a socket on the crankshaft pulley nut and see if it'll turn backwards

Ok mate, I drop them an email 😊

Never heard of the amatech, really my slick 50 usage dates back to the mid 90s as that's when I started using it, as for oil, I use Granville Motorsport 10/60 fs

Well I ran slick 50 in my cosworths after engine rebuilds and running in and I run it in my scoob and any other performance car I've owned, I personally believe the marketing and to this day I've not had a problem with it, I've no evidence either way of course, but I feel happier thrashing the as-s out of the cars with it in, I'm obviously older and calmer now so the scoob gets a mild ragging, but the cosworths and the gto especially got thrashed on a daily basis i don't go for anything else like oil stabilisers etc I just run decent oil and change every 3000, I did just run redex advanced injector cleaner tho Tbh if I'm thinking of buying or doing something to the car I will research the ins and outs for weeks and I'm a bit sceptical of most things, but I thought I would give the grounding kit a go and see, and for me it has worked, even the idle is noticeably smoother, I'm not trying to promote a sale of one in particular as I made mine myself, I just thought I would share my personal experience 👍

How much did they charge to do the injectors leggy ??

Mines gotta be "cun@" cos that's what it gets called the most

I had already done the earths 2/3 months ago, and every car is different, it's made an improvement in mine for sure, people have their opinions and also if your car is earthed great anyway I suppose you won't feel a benifit whats your opinion on slick 50 ?

Fitted this to my car this morning and there is a noticeable increase in responsiveness, smoothness and power probably due to the first two things, I've read a lot about them and I have also cleaned all the grounds I can find on the car before (edit:- 2/3 months ago), but this really has made a difference, no placebo effect, I know how my car drove before and after and I also did not disconnect the battery so didn't reset the ecu, I have grounded both heads, the block, the alternator and the throttle body just thought I would share my findings, will give an update after a few days if anyone's interested 😀

The plus point of it all as well is if you remove all of the cage that held the air pump you can now easily take your spark plugs out on that side without having to remove the battery

Awful design, I think my spraying wd40 down there just destroyed the rubber on the actual solenoid valve as when I took it apart it was all disintegrated 😕 I also cut the baro sensor out and cable tied it safely, and yeah, swearing and levering to get the solenoid out from under the manifold lol

Ah man, that hidden bolt is a !Removed! for sure, did mine a few weeks ago, was touch and go as it was the tightest bolt on the whole car to crack off lol, but I really didn't wanna have to take the inlet manifold off, at the mo ive left the pipe on that goes behind the uppipe and just blanked it where the solenoid used to bolt up, will remove it at a later date when I do a clutch or exhaust or turbo methinks

I had never seen or heard of ringland failure tidge, not in all my years of messing with cars, until I got the hawk

Didn't know classics did this 😕

Too late , they are fitted lol, I'm still crying, coulda got them off the bay for 43 quid but can't wait

Was just curious as I decided I wanted some in my hawk after reading this......., so phoned my local factor.... ngk ilfr7h x4 = £64 😳

Savs, me is confoosed, the heat 7... I am reading that the 7s are a 1 step colder plug than the 6 ?

Forgot about that last bit savs , had two plugs in mine with broken porcelain, one had a big lump missing as well 😕

Mornin mate, welcome aboard the good ship soc 😀

Ok ok, don't rub it in ! Lol

I had the same in my blob with the bit under the rad and the c frame went to a scrapyard, cut one off another blob and welded it in, painted and waxoyled and all was well, just unbolted and bolted another c frame on, and replaced the whole front crossmember also with one off eBay, complete with steering rack, hardest but was the welding the bit under rad in

Absolutely legal as far as I know to make the size up with higher walled tyre as a spare, I think ! your supposed to have matching tyre sizes in the same axle, but that can't happen with a space saver either so maybe that's not true