Piggysniffer

Hi all, I have issues with my avcs/vvt on my hawk wrx, I've logged the vvt for left and right and it looks like the issue is with the LEFT vvt can anyone tell me which side is considered to be the left vvt when logging with romraider please

Or snap them, two of mine had huge chunks of ceramic missing when I took them out

Never mind ya dirty rats I'm gonna make one 👍😛

Hi all, was just wondering if anyone could loan me or point me in the direction of where to get the tool that holds the avcs pulley inner part while you undo the middle bolt holding it onto the cam

I'm thinking yes but maybe also the front bumper may be needed

I think I may have found the answer to my funky running issues, savage Bulldogs thought my boost was kicking in a bit late and I added that info to my other problems and logged all the stuff to do with my avcs, all the units were pretty much the same for duty, volts etc etc, but the actual vvt advance was all over the place from one side to the other, I have disconnected the avcs on both sides and as of this time I have a car that is as smooth as silk and not pulling any timing whatsoever, this morning it was in limp mode again with 0 IAM and -11.95 degrees of flkc at worst and a constant -2.50, fingers crossed this is the issue

And....... breath.......😜 Welcome mate, get some pics up of the cars, and welcome to the forum, best of luck with the resto"s 👍

Anthony is your next port of call methinks

I bought some cheap ones for my old e36 beemer, they were blo-ody awful, never ever again would I buy cheap suspension

Now this makes sense, when I got the car it had a busted piston, so I removed said piston, honed bore enough to take small scratches out, put second hand piston and rings back in as a cheap fix/try, bore clearance was a bit bigger (still has good leak down and comp test on that cylinder) so have a little bit of slap when weathers and engine are cold, I assume that's what all my low level knock readings were, but they were all low level, after the tune I am getting knock everywhere as you can see, I asked for the knock level to be raised to take away the low stuff, and was pretty much told no but I could put a fibre washer under the sensor to deafen it a bit instead, now if I do that and it deafens the sensir to the high level high load knock it is now getting in sure my engine is gonna grenade itself, really not sure how to go forward with this, I dont really want to go getting the hump with anyone over it as it may very well turn out to be something other than the map, but I am not happy at this moment in time tbh

Gonna check for boost leaks again as it has got more and sustained boost after the map and here's some pics of what you like 🙂

Yes, in that particular instance it was pretty much undriveable, had to reset ecu to get it going again, I just don't think I should be getting this after a remap, it has more power than it did before but is pulling much more timing and dropping the IAM on a regular basis, it seems to be a bit better than it was when it did the -9 and zero IAM, is it something that will work its way out or does it need to be looked at

Tesco 99 mate, my car has never pulled timing in high load areas like it is now, all my troubles were at or under 1 g/rev and at or under 2500rpm, I'm thinking that over 4 degrees at high load and rpm is dangerous

Any advice welcome on this

Looks like I spoke too soon, cars in limp mode

I can't remember tbh mate, but I had the car remapped today and it had a bit of a lacklustre map already on it from a company called "flash remapping", it wasnt an awful map, it made 259 but had the map for the throttle pedal altered so that the driveability was bl-oo-dy awful, so I came away with it showing 276 and 40 more torques and driving like a dream :)

Lols 😬

Can she not just view as a guest....

Just remembered what I did next for more noise, after I took the short ram back off, I drilled loads of one inch holes in the bottom part of the standard air filter box...... That didn't work either, messed up the running again so had to buy another air filter box lol

Tis an a-r-s-e for sure, I put a short ram on my blob, the sound of the turbo spoolin was just mesmerising, and off the line the car had massively more power that was really short lived like a mini powerband, but... It had a really lumpy idle and just would not rev out, put romraider on it and it was pulling timing all over the place due to running lean , not good ! If it's a top end kit it's supposed to be OK as they are meant to not screw with fueling but I defo think they all should be mapped for tbh

I also read conflicting reports on wether a walbro will muck up your fuelling, some big names say it absolutely will/does and some others say it won't/doesn't, almost seems it's different from car to car

The car was mapped at 69k by the previous owner, and at 100k I have fitted new parts like maf, plugs, panel filter, walbro, front o2 sensor, silicone turbo inlet pipe, wonder if that's thrown off the tune as it was tuned on 70k sensors ? Plus the tune is 30k and 4 years old now, is that even a problem ??, Anyway, just changed oil n filter before the mapping and found the inner cv boot has split and covered everything in grease lol

My sons sump had rotted out bad on his Kia picanto, I took it off, plated it with stainless, filled with petrol to check for leaks, then painted and replaced. Jus a tip, if your welding anywhere up near the sealing face, put the sump upside down on a strong bit of wood and screw it down tight with every sump bolt hole otherwise there is a fair chance the welding will pull the metal around and distort the sealing face, and don't remove from wood until cold wcome to the forum 😎

Does it have a boost gauge fitted ? welcome to the club mate 😎