Piggysniffer

Took a punt fellas, the ones I've seen are £165 new, I also managed to buy a new still in wrapping one from this country for £54 delivered

Ok update time to help anyone else that may have the same problem, changed the oil control valves/solenoids for the avcs over from side to side and the problem of it searching up and down moved to the right side but not as bad as it was in the left, the left now held steady, so looks like oil control valve issue as well as cam gear or instead of, have had them both out and cleaned the bejeezus out of them and refitted , the big searching numbers and the searching up and down have mostly stopped, but the suspect left side (put the solenoids back to their original places) is laggy compared to the good side, so tomorrow I will change the solenoids over again to see if the lag follows the solenoid or if it stays put and then looks like a cam gear problem still

If it has avcs it really could be that depending on miles and service intervals etc, I've had running issues with mine hawk wrx since I've had it maybe 8ish months and I've only now just traced it to the avcs with a handy tip from savs b'dog, if you lift out the coolant over flow bottle (if it's in same place as wrx) and take out the 4 bolts holding the cam belt cover on on the passenger side, you will see your pulleys behind it, if it is an avcs pulley at the top then you have it

Glad to hear mate, I was gonna put money on it being the cleaned maf :)

Tis in the tank mate, if it's the same as a hawkeye wrx its about 70 quid !, and does your car have avcs on it ?

Had this exact problem on same car in mates garage, turned out to be o2 sensor in this case

Ok guys thanks, will have a little look into it savs, problem I'm having is with the actual cam gear I think, if I hold a steady throttle, eg:- 1600 rpm, the right bank will hold steady at 10 degrees of advance where as the left side will just search from 0 degrees up to about 22 then just keeps repeating that cycle all the way up and back down, gonna change the solenoids over to see if it changes sides, I've checked them for operation and they are fine outta the car but will try it anyway, the filters have been removed from the ocv banjo bolts too, so I think it's pointing at avcs cam wheel, this is where all my logged knock events have come from since I've had the car, cos with the avcs solenoids disconnected I have as close to no knock registered as you could hope to get

Found it... Sitting in the seat, left is left, so passenger side for us in Blighty

Hi all, I have issues with my avcs/vvt on my hawk wrx, I've logged the vvt for left and right and it looks like the issue is with the LEFT vvt can anyone tell me which side is considered to be the left vvt when logging with romraider please

Or snap them, two of mine had huge chunks of ceramic missing when I took them out

Never mind ya dirty rats I'm gonna make one 👍😛

Hi all, was just wondering if anyone could loan me or point me in the direction of where to get the tool that holds the avcs pulley inner part while you undo the middle bolt holding it onto the cam

I'm thinking yes but maybe also the front bumper may be needed

I think I may have found the answer to my funky running issues, savage Bulldogs thought my boost was kicking in a bit late and I added that info to my other problems and logged all the stuff to do with my avcs, all the units were pretty much the same for duty, volts etc etc, but the actual vvt advance was all over the place from one side to the other, I have disconnected the avcs on both sides and as of this time I have a car that is as smooth as silk and not pulling any timing whatsoever, this morning it was in limp mode again with 0 IAM and -11.95 degrees of flkc at worst and a constant -2.50, fingers crossed this is the issue

And....... breath.......😜 Welcome mate, get some pics up of the cars, and welcome to the forum, best of luck with the resto"s 👍

Took the bus to the southsea show this weekend..... We broke down while waiting to turn off the road into the show and had to be pushed in in true dub fashion lol

Anthony is your next port of call methinks

I bought some cheap ones for my old e36 beemer, they were blo-ody awful, never ever again would I buy cheap suspension

Now this makes sense, when I got the car it had a busted piston, so I removed said piston, honed bore enough to take small scratches out, put second hand piston and rings back in as a cheap fix/try, bore clearance was a bit bigger (still has good leak down and comp test on that cylinder) so have a little bit of slap when weathers and engine are cold, I assume that's what all my low level knock readings were, but they were all low level, after the tune I am getting knock everywhere as you can see, I asked for the knock level to be raised to take away the low stuff, and was pretty much told no but I could put a fibre washer under the sensor to deafen it a bit instead, now if I do that and it deafens the sensir to the high level high load knock it is now getting in sure my engine is gonna grenade itself, really not sure how to go forward with this, I dont really want to go getting the hump with anyone over it as it may very well turn out to be something other than the map, but I am not happy at this moment in time tbh

Gonna check for boost leaks again as it has got more and sustained boost after the map and here's some pics of what you like 🙂

Yes, in that particular instance it was pretty much undriveable, had to reset ecu to get it going again, I just don't think I should be getting this after a remap, it has more power than it did before but is pulling much more timing and dropping the IAM on a regular basis, it seems to be a bit better than it was when it did the -9 and zero IAM, is it something that will work its way out or does it need to be looked at

Tesco 99 mate, my car has never pulled timing in high load areas like it is now, all my troubles were at or under 1 g/rev and at or under 2500rpm, I'm thinking that over 4 degrees at high load and rpm is dangerous

Any advice welcome on this