kayzarh

Pretty much everyone here uses NGK plugs here if I'm correct, I personally use pfr6b's for my classic ej20, I think the ej25's use pfr7b's Are they the best? I dunno. Do they work? Yup. Are they well priced? Yup. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

I also have a complete spare boost control bracket. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

No problem, no I didn't drop the tank, I pulled the back seats and threaded the shortest, straight route to the callipers while feed the line behind the lip of the fuel tank, I'll take some pictures. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

On the plus side I bet the body and underside is in darn good shape. If there is one thing ive learnt is ask questions, if you are unsure, read up or get the thumbs up Up until January this year Id never added oil to an engine before. Fast forward a few months I've changed a timing belt and routed a new hard brake line. You'll be fine! Oh and welcome :) Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Update: Was doing the brake lines till 1am today morning :D Good news is the 50/50 chance paid off and I cut the right one. Bad news is the nipple I have that goes into the plastic flexible brake hose dosent fix so I have to wait for smaller ones which I ordered today morning. Next step alongside the nipple is to mount the exhaust 100% and go over all the bolts to make sure everything is still torqued down. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

anyone got any pointers for which one could be the rear right brake line?

update: Alternator fixed the random electrical issues.

think my alternator is gone, when the engine is running and i take the negative off the car stalls. after around 10ish mins of running and use of accessories (heater, headlights, windows) causes my cluster to switch off and thus my revs go to 0 even though the car is still running, shortly after the car tries to switch off, if i give it some beans (2-3k ish revs, it runs fine again, but the dash still dosent come back to life). Not sure if this picture was taken in a place that has the driver side on the left.// Do i have this correct? and finally a video VIDEO am i on the right track? I found all these pictures and the video on the internet from: http://www.designlabx.com/subaru/brakes/brake_line/ thanks

@savage bulldogs Okay did my first full oil change, making sure to replace the washer and and the oil filter. got a nice genuine black subaru filter and fresh 5w-40 from shell. okay the idle fluctation is alot better and only really happens when i slow down from lets say 4-5k revs. Ill rev to 3k and it will drop to 1k rev smoothly, then take a moment before dropping to 800 revs Also, sometimes when i let go of the throttle it hesitates slightly as if its about to stall when it reach around 1k rpm

got my battery fully charged for a fiver and slapped it back into the scoobs, let in idle for a while :)

i got the ngk pfr6b's from opie with my order and installed them like 1-2months back, and yes, i was also told that by my uncle

LEICESTER!!!! LEICESTER!!!!!!!!!!!! sorry just had to, im 20 and immature :P

@savage bulldogs HEY LOOK WHAT I FOUND :D:D:D. I wonder who posted this convenient picture, he also has a really nice scoob ;) HA GHAAAI </end of banter> Really look at number 6, sounds exactly, goes up and down in a small range.

ill try this when the blooming weather clears up and ill make sure the engine isnt too hot just to be safe.

ah i understand now, awesome, ill have a look at that for sure. i heard a loud hissing sound towards the turbo area, is that just the turbo spinning or could that be an air leak? My cold start is around 1.5k revs and drops down to around 800 once the engine temp has reached halfway. as the engine warms up the fluctuation is less intense. i must add: It dosent only go down and up, it bounces in one place.

Im pretty sure there are no air leaks, I've fitted everything on properly (including new oe intake) this time, last time the car would literally switch off if i never gave it enough throttle, but ill be sure to check through again. Last time i warmed it up to 20mins or so, revved it hard a few times and the idle had stopped fluctuating. the only iffy i can really pick out right now is as soon i start the car i get a whiff of petrol, which goes away almost instantly. If i can get the brake lines done from the rear seat using a little different routes im going to do that, as i want to get it mot'd and insured asap :D whilst then i can save up for nice coil overs and at least appreciate the upgrade could i get a little more explanation on how to check the fuel filler neck as the underseal looks pretty good (im assuming the plastic black shiny cover thingies) education wise from January since now ive learnt SO MUCH its unbelieveable really appreciate the help and support from you guys, wouldn't have been able to do it alone.

My first and only car which is a project: Subaru Impreza v4 here is a video of one of her first revs ;) Video

im thinking, since im keeping this car for my kids (lol) i might aswell take the rear off, get all the links and whatnot whitelined (swaybar, links, bushing etc) and since i have a type ra gearbox in it, why not opt for the LSD rear diff. THIS IS ALL A SIGN FROM ABOVE LOL

just like in the video that i posted? how long of a task is it to take off a subframe?; im genuinely clueless. thanks for the heklp

things are taking a turn for the worst :/ i decided to fill the master cylinder (never noticed it was empty) in an attempt to see if i could bleed the brakes and get them to work and this happened at the rear driver side axle : and it was dripping from onto of the fuel tank. and through this hole: and we suspected that the issue was somewhere in this hard brake line from my understanding (1) i need to take the whole rear differential off along with the axle to get behind the panel to the line and fix it. I saw this fix regarding a (2) legacy; could i do the same thing ? what do you think would be my best angle of approach and attack on this issue Option (1) or (2) any ideas guys, @savage bulldogs what do you think savs ?

paid 1300 for my non runner, and like 300-400 for gaskets, timing belts and parts which i thought i never had -_-

its been a long time haha :D well LONG STORY SHORT, Chinese turbo intake didnt fit, had to mod another silicone hose which i had to then replace, called my Subaru showroom and it took an amazing 1 month to get here :D wrapped headers, uppipe and downpipe....i also found my short...some of the loom was touching the manifold and melted it on so it was shorting from there!!! changed the exhaust system over and swapped o2 sensors. drilled out the broken nuts for the windscreen washer reservoir! ordered in a new genuine turbo intake from icp filled some water in (which im going to empty asap, ive got some fuchs frikofisk ready) and well all thats left is changing the timing belt and idlers (should be done this Thursday friday) and rebuilding the brakes/painting/powdercoating them. here is some action (i suspect a dirty ivac as im occasionally having fluctuating idle revs) i need to find a factory airbox top bit as i have a pipercross one which is shot, so will be replaced with original airbox and hks filter. Video

yes its not the right angle pipe at the top but the one on the side; @savage bulldogs does that make it any clearer?

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah im going backwards... guesswhat...the blue chinese turbo intake dosent fit!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and to ice the cake i had to mod a hose to try and fit it and it still didnt fit! and i scratched up my new manifold gaskets and now i need to buy an original turbo intake pipe + the silicone pipe just a question @savage bulldogs what is the name of this metal pipe!

What colour plug do you have ? Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk