Scooby Pete

Anyone playing real racing 3 iOS? http://www.ea.com/uk/real-racing-3-ios If so add me as a game centre friend, would be good to race your times. Game centre name Scooby_pete.

Doh I'll get my coat. I lost track of which thread I was in, thought it was one of your threads, serves me right for having multiple windows open.

1st option and cheapest is to change the pads. I have always used EBC pads from ecb direct.com good price quick delivery. Upgrading the brake pads will give you better more positive braking. The only reason to change the discs is if: The steering wheel wobbles under hard or prolonged braking. This means the discs are warped, and you should really replace them. The discs are badly worn and you have a produced lip around the edge of the disc. You could get these skimmed, or replace them. I will have to change my discs as I noticed they have quite a bit of wobble when braking from 100 down to 50 without really braking that hard. I'm going to go for EBC Turbo Grooved discs, with EBC yellow stuff (fast street/track) or more likely the Red Stuff pads (street/fast street) I ran both types of pads on my classics and felt the red stuff were the better option if your not raggin it a lot and just driving normally with a bit of playing about every now and then. If you are going rag it a lot then the yellow stuff would suit better, still work ok as an every day brake pad but you have to ask is it worth the extra £35 for the yellow stuff pads.

Here's the gauge in red.

Hahahaha thanks :D, sorry to laugh but that's a model car I race and printed out some decals for. It's not much bigger than a coke can. Wish my real car did look like that though :)

Welcome to the club :)

Welcome Ahh the steep and slippery never ending slope of Modding. Having to restrain myself for starting on mine

Looking good any plans for mods?

ETS Racing have a nice selection for scoobs upto 2007 you have to email if you want to buy anything.http://www.ets-racing.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Page5.html

Yeah I looked at all the prosport range and a few others, I want to keep it as close to the original clocks as possible. The ones I got in the red a good match.

Went for a 60mm set up in the end. Ordered a 60mm pod from ETSracing and a Depo 60mm boost gauge in red. £70 for the lot.

Din's not an option as I have a double din sat nav fitted. I think I have found the answer, it's very similar to what I had in my classic. Before I fitted the AVCR.

Thanks for that :) I found a UK supplier of the Zero Sports one and they are asking £180+vat for what is just a peice of !Removed! Plastic. Might look at buying some Foam and Fibre glass to make my own.

Yeah but with airbags in the pillars I'm thinking its a bit silly to put the gauges somewhere they can potentailly cause more damage (ie minor side impact, the bag goes off and the guages smash the windscreen) or even worse stop the airbag working properly.

Looking at getting a boost Gauge, but trying to find a good looking gauge pod that isn't a pillar mount is like trying to find rocking horse poo. Idealy I want something a 52mm pod like this from Zero Sports. But £140 plus shipping and taxes makes it way too expensive. Anyone know of anything like this from the UK for at least less than £80 which I still think is too much for a single gauge pod. Scrooge that I am.

Welcome :)

I miss the sucking and whooshing of an induction kit and DV :( it,s about £700 new for both bits and a remap, far too much for some extra noise. Whish I'd kept the HKS SSQV from the classic would have only needed the fitting kit then :(

I've no idea what mine are at the mo the monkeys at Kwikfit did it and supposedly used "Nitrogen". Although I expect with thier system at least some Air will have got into it negating the whole point of using Nitrogen.

I'm more than happy to bow to greater wisdom. I'm deff not a mechanic, I'll have a go at most things myself the harder jobs usually end up me posting for help or a mechanic fixing my fix lol. I just think I know something or have read it somewhere and resort to searching other forums or google. You can normally find something on SDIC, nasoic, iwsti or even scabbynet. I will often be proved wrong or at least half right :D Re the closed deck if no4 melted on the current deck, why not go closed deck just to be sure?

Bit late, still it's handy for the future. Best way to get bushes out is to use a long bolt with a washer a nut and a socket. Put the bolt through the bush and then the square hole in the socket, the socket needs to be big enough to line up with the metal housing you are removing the bush from, add washers and nut, the washers need to be just smaller than the metal housing but bigger than the centre of the bush. Now do the nut up at the socket end and the bush will pull its self through the mount and into the socket. Should come out easily using this method.

The clips seem too wide at the top so won't sit in the channel. I've tried to use an implement to push them in but they just dropped down again. I'll have another try at the weekend.

TBH if you are going for a rebuild I would junk the engine you have and look at basing the engine on a closed deck block which is far more durable than the open deck, the easiest way to tell is that a Closed deck block will have crosshatching on the front of the block. They are much more durable and less prone to no4 cylinder getting hot, as has happend to yours. I know South East Imprezas had some closed deck engines for sale.

what that stuff Cahrlie Sheen Drinks?

I have put 2 in a vice to make the top a little narrower. Still dont stay in every now and then one will fall out.

Don't know no updates from him. :(