Martian

Hi I'm looking for the white plastic clips that go into the holes in the doors that the speakers screw into. If anyone has some or knows there proper name or where i can buy some from i would be really grateful as I cant find them any where. Thanks!

Mines a lot older than yours, so could possibly be different. I have two tabs on the top of the spoiler i need to prize off, and there are some clips and things on the inside of the boot i need to undo.

Im probably wrong, and dont mind being corrected. But i think thats the crash bar, and i think it can be replaced as im sure ive seen them for sale on ebay. Not sure though.

No worries dude, Ive found these things to be rarer than rocking horse !Removed!. Ive been looking for months and havent even seen one for sale! Ive even tried looking on foreign Apexi and HKS sites and cant find one. Personally I think if you have one and have even the slightest inkling you may need it in the future, keep it! But if anyone has one and wants to get rid of it.... Give me a shout

No worries! Neither did I until I started looking to get rid of the resonator.

Ive never really payed attention because I have a classic but if im correct your resonator is in your wheel arch?? I think thats something ive read somewhere about newer models. V1 and V2 is between the airbox and maf and the turbo return pipe. The pic I have to hand doesnt show the resonator, i took it to show my mate the bit I had bought was wrong. It works but not with the oe air box, you need an pod filter.

Hi, Ive been searching for a Resonator delete pipe for my early classic wagon. Ive found a few that work with a pod filter but i want to keep my standard airbox. Im sure there must be something floating around somewhere that allows you to keep the airbox but get rid of the resonator box. Does anyone know about or have something that can do the job? Cheers! Martin

Changed my fuel filter, found out a resonator box delete i bought second hand of ebay is supposed to be used with a pod filter instead of the original airbox which annoyed me. Replaced a broken leaking radiator and filled with nice fresh millers oils coolant and anti freeze. Washed the outside and emptied all the crap out of it. Im now going for a drive as the roads should be empty.

Lovely car! Thats a real good project you have to work on.

Depends. You can swap out the front speakers to upgraded versions the same size and you wont need an adapter. The same can be said for rear speakers in the rear door or other locations. If you upgrade the speakers and go up a size from say 5.25 to 6.5 then you will need an adapter. The trouble starts when your rear speakers are not in doors. Say in a wagon. My estate has its rear speakers on top of my rear strut towers, I have replaced them with lower mid range vibe speakers the same size as standard and am not happy. I would like to put something like 6.5 the same as my fronts or even go 6x9 but its not going to be easy modifying the brackets the speakers sit in. If your rear speakers are in your doors, then happy days! Ebay or shop bought adaptor and away you go

Cheers Gambit No pressure on me to compete then Quick update, I have found the leak, its my radiator. I really wanted to get an alloy upgrade, but ended up getting a normal replacement, the top big radiator hose feels like its going to split in the near future so ive bought a black hose replacement kit which i was really suprised to find was more expensive than the blue or red versions. I have got a few jobs I need to do sooner rather than later but its just finding the time. I already have all the parts I need, Im going to attempt to do all this between now and the end of the weekend. Replace the radiator, Spark plugs, coil pack upgrade and oil and filter. Although regarding the coil pack upgrade, Ive just had a thought, I may just sell on the pigtails I have and buy new HT leads as a precaution, I will still change the plugs tho. Oh and I am now the proud owner of some STI wagon spoilers Genuine or replica im not sure. The wrong colour silver... yes. And the top spoiler needs a minor repair job but im still really pleased. The crank oil seal will have to wait for another day,

Cheers mate, will do.

I havent written anything for a while, things have been quite hectic recently. A support worker job i started about 6 months ago has gone belly up, i had to report two people i work with for neglect and financial abuse, then the office gave those two people permission to take the same two residents out to a gig they have no interest in. I couldnt let this go so had to go into the office and calmly and tactfully tell them how wrong they were, all the time knowing i was still on probation and hadnt fully got the job. They then informed me that i had been overpayed since i had been there and owed the company £1300. A few days later my car overheated. As you look at it from the front the leak is on the left (airfilter side), but i cant tell any more than that, other than its a fairly big leak. It took nearly 4 litres to get home and then about 2 litres once it had got home. Im hoping its just a pipe thats split but going to have to get a friend over with his halogen torch and ramps to find out. On a plus side i have been applying for work and think i have found a considerably better job with considerably better pay! Ive passed an interview and was told i was the best candidate so far and the job was as good as mine, they even told me what they were looking for and how to pass the next stage. I have a further interview and assessment on tuesday. If i get this job this 'fix thread' becomes Classic Wagon 2.0 - Rise of the Battle Wagon Complete my above plans to get it running smoothly again and then get it to a safe every day use 300bhp. Which should be pretty monster in a lightweight SA estate.

Didnt know about the spigot bearing. Thanks!

Thanks Stants, appreciate the reply. Im currently stock, but plan to be at about 280 some time next year so the blue box will suit me fine. There is a £40 odd price difference between the two sizes, does this mean the bigger 230mm clutch is better? More clutch to grab onto? Or is there no difference and may aswell save £45 quid and go for the 225mm? Im definitely getting the fly wheel skimmed. I have quite bad clutch judder, I think possibly brought on by a crank oil seal leak. Also as you say its good practice anyway.

Hi, Im going to be changing my clutch at the same time as fixing a crank oil seal and while i want quality also want to save a few quid if possible. Ive found these two clutches on ebay off the same seller and both are in my price range but cheaper than other exedy clutches ive found. There are loads of Exedy clutches on ebay, the two types that i think ive narrowed down to being genuine stage one 3 piece clutch are the full on marked Exedy boxes and around £300. The other is cheaper and in a blueish box marked clutch kit or disc. The difference between the two ive found is 5mm but both are marked as suiting the impreza. Ive had a few whiskys and cant notice any other differences. Can anyone help me with which one suits my 1994 JDM SA Wagon and most importantly are they fake?? Ive checked his feedback and all seems legit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201386114416?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191627669744?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Thanks

Snowbaru? Subatrack? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTDNLUzjkpg Nobody else reply

The bolt sheared off on all of mine, just wouldnt come undone until it eventually just sheared.

Nice, Cheers buddy. Really appreciate the help!

Ok, so if i check the wire in the engine bay goes to the manifold and has an o2 sensor there then i dont need one in the downpipe and can just bung it?. If i check the wire in the engine bay and it doesnt go to the manifold but goes to the downpipe then i need it. Thats pretty much what your saying isnt it?

Lol, ive only just sorted mine out, bit of a coincidence finding two exhaust bodge jobs so close together. Mine was a 2.5" reduced to a 2". The car felt a fair bit better after i removed it.

Does anyone use http://modsreloaded.com/ I used to be a moderator there a few years ago. The owner is a friend, im pretty sure he has an arma server. Armas not my type of game so im not sure. He may even have some mods for it.

Cheers bud, no rush.

Is this the wire you mean?? This i believe is the wire that goes to the pre cat sensor if you can make it out, im not 100 percent without getting under the car.

Thanks for the reply mate, Ive just got in, gonna have a coffee and let the engine cool a bit before heading back out to check. There definitely is a wired in sensor pre cat in the downpipe, my mechanic and i saw it when the car was on the lift, the wire is attached to something in the engine, i didnt follow it all the way personally, he followed it with a torch and seemed satisfied that it wasnt just hanging or acting as a bung. So in my mind, and im more than likely wrong lol, if the o2 sensor has been moved and not mapped, it could explain why all my power is lower down the rev range or in the first half of accelerator travel.... I know im not describing it properly and it doesnt really make sense as i dont know whats wrong or how to explain it. But if you remember on a previous post i made when i first joined, i said that if i floor it, foot to the floor it accelerates and i can overtake, but when i ease off the throttle back to aprox half throttle i get a surge of power. So i basically only use the first half of the throttle as thats where all the power is. All my other cars as long as you dont redline you have full use of the accelerator pedal. But with this if i want the power i only have half. Its only really noticeable at higher speeds as its an import gearbox im very rarely in 1st, 2nd or 3rd as they are so short. Put it in 5th at 60 and floor it and I can recreate it every time.