Mattb

Am waiting for April then I'll tax mine. I've got some bits and peices to do on it yet. I used to live at Appleby but now I've moved to Tebay. I still use Stu for body repairs though, he's spot on to deal with.

If the number plate bracket is rotten then the light weight bumper bracket will be shot too. Ring Gary at Stan palmer Carlisle. 01228525051. They aren't that bad to do if you fancy attacking it yourself. Am am sure about body shops up the A7, best one I'd suggest is Penrith body repairs or the body shop at Appleby. Bit of a trek for you but a decent job is worth traveling for.

Nice motor. Wish I could find my old 205.. but glad I've got a 2000 turbo! Rot is common, main areas are rear arches, fuel filler pipeand rear bumper bracket.. I've had to sort them all out. Rear arches I had done at a garage but they could do with being compleatly cut out and new replacement patches put in. Take the drivers rear wheel off and the plastic cover that protects the pipe / collects the crap behind it so the pipe can rot... very annoying! Look up where the number plate is with a torch and see what state the brackets are for the lights and also the light weight bumper bracket that holds the top of bumper on, if it was anything like mine it will be rotten. £175 off Subaru for the brackets and a quid each for the clips to hold it on.

Next project? Just look at what you could do with little tykes though...

No question is silly mate, the one you don't ask may be the most important! Get some photos on when you get it. Keep it standard, best way imo.

No bother, she's nearly ready! 😝

Brought it out the garage. First time in 3 months! Rear bumper bracket replaced along with the number plate light brackets. Next job, a full service ready for summer, and replace the exhaust.

The spoiler on a standard r33 skyline looks similar?

Am guessing the pic you have added is what your looking for? What's your budget? as there's a few good ones about.

Nice motor! Regular oil and filter changes, using good recommended filters and brand oils. Cheap oils are cheap for a reason... Ask the oil man on here for his recommendation.

It reads like it started life as a standard 2000 turbo then had a two door conversion done, re spray and a few extra body panels put on. It looks well looked after but you would have to remember your buying a replica lookalike.. a good standard 2000 turbo, wrx or a wrx sti would be more desirable in years to come and hold its money better.

I bought it if a guy who had a heap of Subaru stuff, he said it was fitted to his but took it off before he sold it. I think it was swapped after he crashed it because he had a lot of bits. I can wait that's no bother.

The turbo is still available if you want.

Hi. I'd think on that budget you might struggle to find a decent WRX under 100k. A decent 2000 turbo for 2k might be your answer, they are good to tune.

17s and they rub? Seems strange. What's the tyre size on your wheels?

1st of April my 2000 turbo will be taxed, she's in the garage at the moment getting some bits fettled. Id come to Kendal for a ride out. Only 10 miles from me.

Back bumper removed and new lightweight bumper bracket painted ready, sorting the rust out over the next few nights. Painted my callipers and decided to paint the rusty bits on the disks that aren't the contact area.

I've got standard 16" rims on mine and they are fine on either lock. I assume they are aftermarket wheels you have, what size are they?

Nice looking motor. Hope you get it sorted.

id try and see if it's a misfire. Seems to be two pops with every gear.

It's not from the exhaust is it? Sounds like back fire on the video. Has it got the correct HT leads on it? High modifications sometimes means you need to upgrade them.

It sounds electrical to me, not mechanical. If she just completely cut out and rolled to a stop with no spluttering or any attempt to fire I'd say it's an ignition fault. Id see what an auto electricion has to say before changing parts. It might be as simple as a bad earth wire.

Did you change the disk? If not id check it to see if it has a lip on the edge of the metal before you change a wheel bearing.. if it's when you let the clutch out it could be either cv joint that's lacking in grease round the bearings and sqeeking when it's under drive pressure. If the rubber cover over the joint is in bad shape I'd say that's your cause. Hope you get it sorted.

I use auto smarts Duet wash and wax soap once a week, that's after knocking the rough off with weakish TFR soap. After that it's out with the wax it wet from autoglym. For a deep clean I use evo3 cutting compound from auto smart. Use an electric buffer and plenty of water in a spray bottle with a drop of wax it wet mixed in for better lubrication. Then out with the auto glym resin polish to finish. Not very environmentally friendly but the best thing to remove tar from paintwork is diesel, just wipe over the top with a sponge till it dissolves, no damage to the paintwork either 😀

I'll come down, see what the crack is. I'll see if a few lads near me want to come with their motors too.