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Help with changing timing belt! :(


Martin959
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Don't over tighten the belt or the water pump bearing will blow or a pulley will fail. Ensure the timing is not affected else it will be expensive. Getting it right is key to not having to replace anything else.

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Don't over tighten the belt or the water pump bearing will blow or a pulley will fail. Ensure the timing is not affected else it will be expensive. Getting it right is key to not having to replace anything else.

 

But the tighten is given by the tensioner, right?

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Ahhhhhhh hahahaah, I have just bougth a new one :(

 

But Im having problems with the tensioner, since mine is a Catalunya and its from 1997 engine code EJ20GN, the ones that I found on eBay, are these and apparently they "wont fit"... :(

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-timing-belt-tensioner-roller-type-EJ20-/380195452053?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58856a3495

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-Timing-Belt-Tensioner-Roller-Type-EJ20-EJ25-/261331189045?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cd88d7d35

 

Any thoughts? :)

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Couldn't tell you which spring tensioner is correct but being a my97 engine I'd have thought it should have the earlier hydraulic tensioner .

I was advised to use the hydraulic type for my build (as their stronger).

Have a look on the import car parts website to see which one is correct for your year or give them a bell and speak to luke (as he knows his scoob bits)

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I would of personally bought the kit off of ICP as only like maybe £60 more for idler/pulleys to be included.

You can get away without replacing them but that depends on car mileage & known history.

Same goes with water pump over 100K I tend to be inclined to do it for extra £55 for quality Jap pump.

waterpump acts as idler on back of cambelt so some pump failures can fubar your cambelt.

Subaru pumps are damn good though so not something that should be done on engines first belt change but on 2nd or 3rd it getting good idea.

 

Tensioners are all hydraulic driven by spring & oneway restriction valve mainly due to the boxer belt run length.

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Yeh the original pumps can go for years as superb quality, i've seen a few original pumps at close to 20years & almost 200k.

I tend to advise on pump around 100k but if pump seem good when inspected it can be chanced, once over 140k I don't give them choice on pump.

On performance subarus I would insist on new quality pump at 100k, just don't like chancing it on well wazzed motors ...

 

Main thing is replace with top quality jap pump from ICP or BluePrint. Only around £50

Meyle pumps ok for run of the mill cheap subaru budget option (£31) but likes of Circoli should be avoided at all costs.

A 150k mile original subaru pump would still be better than a tat Euro Circoli pump.

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Tbh I've never seen the later type tensioner in the flesh as I've only ever worked on v1 to v3

A rally engine builder gave me a bit of advice while i was building my engine and described the earlier tensioner as "hydraulic" rather than spring loaded

Here's a pic of the early one in situ it looks like a little hydraulic piston above the water pump and is different to either one in the links

post-1399-142325496639_thumb.jpg

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Yeh they basically same in principal as both types are hydraulic.

Your type has the hydraulic over spring assembly in the separate alloy cylinder that then pushes the piston onto a tab on the pulley.

Later type has the pulley & hydraulic over spring assembly all in one working as a pivoting arm.

I like the earlier one too as hydraulic unit stronger & the pulley is stronger in mounting too.

Got that type on my old 95 Legacy ...

Not everything new is better, bit like front wishbone bushing idea on the 05 onward foresters went a bit junk ...

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