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Mr B

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Mr B last won the day on February 16

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About Mr B

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location:
    UK Devon
  • Subaru Model
    Forester Gen-1&2

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  1. wheel bearing I expect, diff normally changes noise pitch as load/unload via throttle and normally very easy pinpoint noise . Best way with bearings is run it in gear on lift and use stethoscope on hubs, normally easy distinguish noisy ones out of the 4 this way . If do bearings only use japan bearing kits as not much more cost but 10 times the quality .
  2. road drive it on clear road and rock steering left to right and see if noise stops when loaded , if does should be wheel bearing . Rear dif is very distinguishable noise and generally very easy tell it rear . Diff noise normally worsens at speed in corners . If noise can be produced on ramp running in gear should find likely area in 10 minutes with screwdriver and funnel or stethoscope .
  3. ^ you get MLS gaskets coated that can be stopper or non stopper constructed stopper refers to internal metal layer that either folded around cylinder or die press ridged so it creates more clamp force around cylinder bore. The coating is purely a micro sealing aid and differing metal barrier to corrosion issues .
  4. making a forester look like weak sauce lol . skid plate fits well with trimmed bumper .
  5. Cosworth is what I normally use as priced far better, half price of RCM for same die cut stopper type gasket available in 0.78 and 1.1, RCM headgaskets are proper decent but bit over priced . Used cosworth for years on sr20's and ej's and they been superb and pricing superb too .
  6. No it not hacked, they just gone dirty, I never used them, was advised years ago best didn't rely on service hostings. Best way is buying your own domain and hosting on it yourself, very cheap (less £20 a year) other way is using free pic hosting such as . other option is googledrive although can't do images embedded that way but best for files and docs. Any decent forum wants be promoting images to site hosting so got control as lot of threads thus forum content turns to trash when images and file links turn dead . Is a massive loss to huge amount of data built up on forums, hopefully people will smarten up and stop relying on these wanky terminal hostings and take more controllable option for content they upload .
  7. Just use a local autofactors as they not that expensive, even oem not too expensive :-/ Unusual have issues with blueprint stuff but lot of eBay stuff is rough old stock so can get stung . If going online then ICP is an option but best calling as they do stock a lot of cheap ranges these days so need know brands you getting before buying from them . eBay option - could try aceparts_uk . Used them for brake discs pads and hoses in bulk and been A1 in price/service
  8. removing airbox will be causing air turbulence issues over the maf, mix that with heat soak and pcv's 'there's your problem' basically this a detuning mod, even forced induction subarus can have power/smoothness issues with filters similar to these unless fitted well and air flow mapping adjusted. Subaru airflow sensors are very precise and easy get issues when change mechanical air intake without changing digital data .
  9. check your model be sure what fly you got, dmf needs plates backlash checked and changed if out of spec, they can be resurfaced , Not a cheap job on the legacy even without flywheel but worth doing right if intend doing mileage to get decent benefit from it .
  10. Never really know for sure till look at them, if has a lot of over heating and surface cracks or bad scoring then ideally needs new. Ideally needs light skim to reface it unless in unusual good smooth condition, most shops don't skim as hassle with extra lift downtime while flywheel being refaced. Ideally want a 3pc LUK or genuine exedy clutch kit then review the flywheel. Most single mass flywheels only need a skim, new flywheel about 100 (non genuine) to £160 if bought as part of clutch kit so calculate that against refacing cost and what money you willing to put into the job. lot of garages just chuck a kit on old fly rubbed down with emery and brake clean and called good, obviously refacing is best but lots of shops likely jump on new fly for quicker/easier job start to finish .
  11. Don't sound normal to me from your comments, some can get a bit heavy when done the miles but sounds like clutch cover or perhaps pedal hydraulics got issue (cover normally as we done a few), if car been tuned at all could also be a heavy sprung clutch been fitted . New clutch fitted wouldn't be more than £500 from experienced independent, super easy pull boxes on these and clutch kits sensible prices .
  12. My P/N was for press fit to back of spindle, the bolt on ones like in your pic are a pain to find sensible priced, used hub is cheapest route on those, have welded couple of those and worked okay, new was over £80 and owners generally faint at that plus cost of splitting hub to fit it .
  13. mapco 76295 , they about £20 price range . Same reluctor rings as on forester an impreza .
  14. rear drop links on SG onwards are standard metal ball joints so just stick with them but if need replacing use MEYLE HD ones as seem best from what we tried. Whiteline is simplest kit get hold of, don't bother with the swaybar brackets as way way cheaper strengthen original ones by welding support plates to them (easily unbolt to work on or take to a welding/fabrication shop) . Other things check is rear struts as saggy/failing SLS struts give loose rear end as does poor tyre choice, old tyres, mismatched set, wrong pressures etc .
  15. I wouldn't waste money on BC coilovers or coilovers in general for road use, they are junk, valving is poor and strut stroke is way way too short a travel range, they turn into a corroded mess in 18 months and will leak if on rough roads or venture down tracks a lot with your forester .. coilovers are totally useless for UK B roads if you know anything about suspension and how it should work . Pedders dropped struts about best sensible option for road use and cost to you .