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Mr B

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Mr B last won the day on February 16

Mr B had the most liked content!

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About Mr B

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location:
    UK Devon
  • Subaru Model
    Forester Gen-1&2

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2,579 profile views
  1. You on about the bumper protector . I got some a year or 2 ago via USA seller on eBay, was about £36 each inc all costs and the US ones have Forester moulded into them rather than Subaru so add a nice touch, Old ones are a bugger to get off. I had remove prep and respray a complete rear bumper at my expense for a customer as old broken one was lifting paint when trying remove (not factory paint), didn't have heart add paint refinish cost to the bill which was high enough without issues for what is a bit of plastic trim lol .
  2. Indeed proper versatile wagon, Handling can be improved with stiffer springs and rear shocks/anti-roll bar. easy cars live with and make daily life and bad winter a breeze ...
  3. If it original paint and A1 leave it, the factory fluro-carbon clear coats on the metallics are never matched in durability even by best after market paint products or sprayers .
  4. Shame to break that just for HG issue ...
  5. 6 weeks is nothing, just start it and let it idle and warm a little before driving .
  6. If this an SF model it not really that bad besides time consuming. get yourself a plastic trim removal tool set and a metal v tipped screwdriver style clip/prybar if not got anything already and get stuck in Airbags are no real hassle, just extra plugs disconnect but nothing worry about a no chance of going off or anything. Bulk of dash comes off in one piece then dash tube bar can be disconnected fully core side and loosened the other to give easy removal working space, it just a lot of clips and screws so have a few small containers so can group them to particular areas for easier assembly . Areas to start is steering wheel removal and clocks, centre console, glovebox and small trim. If give model year I will link you factory service manual diagrams which will help locate fitting points clips and general part overlay etc .
  7. Yeh it tricky one, you hardly ever need one but when not got one will be that one time you need it .
  8. swing gate can look tidy if done well and only thing needs trimming is bumper but can do it without even that but wouldn't look so neat, if don't travel far then not major concern just have couple cans puncture repair and good foot pump. if use roof rack then tyre will sit on roof or can go in boot upright with ratchet strap retaining it .
  9. best option is a swing gate for the tyre that goes through bumper and mounts off rear bar of the tow hitch. Will be custom fabrication effort but not overly hard, use 2 taper needle bearings so the swing arm is play free and smooth to use . other option is cans of tyre puncture repair or spare on roof-rack if MPG not a concern ...
  10. Yeh auto is okay, but I not greatest fan of 4EAT on turbo engine, AWD is completely different principle on them too using a hydraulic clutch to control drive to rear diff . For auto likers it fine but for manual likers it not the best transition compared to later type auto boxes . Probably is part of reason less interest but with that mileage and if proper clean it will soon go, always tend find low mileage and cleaner ones are auto boxes lol .
  11. sensible price if a nice one, would of been interested myself if a manual . good luck with sale .
  12. could look at raising the skoda 60mm with custom springs from springcoil or I think weitek done rubber spacers for vw/skoda ! Doubt get anymore than 60mm though.
  13. Later models with revised crank is best (done at least 2 crank revisions), they also have benefit of better component and software revisions. Injector relearning is a mode the ecu goes into to check relative injector function and calibrate itself. Injectors are coded from factory and when replaced this code has be entered into ecu so it knows base values of new injector . DPF is bit of hit and miss issue, driving type plays big roll but so does subaru software versions. Ideally dpf's should be strippable so easily manually cleaned at service times, regen and chemical cleaning is not great for environment or owners wallet . Back pressure from dpf reduces engine efficiency massively and costs owner a fortune over life of vehicle. Removing it not option as ilegal and mot failure ... If buy diesel forester just try buy latest model can and test drive it at least twice for prolonged varried drives (make sure clutch feels nice) and try check previous service issues via dealers etc. Later models and latest software mixed with high mileage use tends give little issue but if a short tripper or not doing high enough anual mileage reap financial recovery then diesel is big expense .
  14. ICP and esubaru are useful at times and handy for saving cost and getting odd parts fast . Lot of the basic parts are pretty easy source via good local motorfactors or online motorfactors. eBay motorfactor sellers have some parts cheaper than we can get on trade accounts and decent brand quality parts too . We actually invested about 6K in stocked parts from large factor specialists and esubaru as enables us give lower quotes but maintain quality parts thus get the work and no hassles of cheaper part range, plus it far easier and faster for us have parts at hand as can do lot of jobs almost instantly without hassle of part delivery downtime/wrong parts supplied etc . Lot of subaru parts can be found at sensible cost whether oem or pattern part, always worth stepping back and researching all options before jump into big expense . Enoy another year of reasonably cheap and trouble free motoring I hope, good luck with the old oil burner :-)
  15. Hope you enjoy the new forester and get a great subaru experience from it ... good luck and have fun getting some mud on it lol .