Dino Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Here's something perhaps you guys can check and let me know... I've noticed on my WRX that the front discs are much larger with bigger callipers so presume they do MORE of the braking because the engine load is in the front. But I've checked and found very hot front discs after driving it for a while - not red hot or glowing, but just really hot - I mean that the discs are too hot to handle when touching them and can burn your fingers! :o The back wheel discs are not as hot but are smaller discs and pads anyway. So is this very hot heat on the front discs normal on a WRX? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Yep depending on car the fronts handle upto 75% of the braking load as weight shifts forward under breaking, I wouldn't worry about it even if you went round the block to get a paper they'd be hot. If you think about it the car weighs around a ton and a half so only having 4 contact areas to slow you down will generate a lot of friction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 If their getting very hot after a short drive it will be sticky piston on the callipers maybe more than one it will warp the discs too if not sorted, and if they get too hot reduce the braking. Only real way is the get some refurbished ones I'm having to do mine at the minute just waiting on a set to be rebuilt. :( Should be done this week. I have freed it up but it's only ever temporary :( 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Agree - check for binding as this will really wear your pads down quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dino Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 ok Thanks. The brakes were bled and one on the front is squeeking now when coming to a stop. Dam. There's no judder or squirm on braking so think the discs are ok... but need to check further now. Cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 No problem. just hope it's maybe you being a bit paranoid, but I'd have a guess at it being a piston or a few stuck :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dino Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Yes, piston stuck. Calliper replaced. Better braking now and no hot disc.... until I took it out on a long run and it looks like the pads had stuck on again. Dam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Gutted so you will need to either refurbish them or get some others too :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Did you give them a good clean and copperslip the retaining pins ? I refurbished my 4 pots with a stainless steel piston kit from "godspeed" with new rattle plates and pins off eBay it probably cost me about £150 . Haven't had any problems but they've only done about 8k mls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Cusco is doing me a set for 150 + my old calipers not including postage. I'm just waiting to hear when hes built them up at the minute. But would like a go at doing them doesn't look too hard. I know the one I had sticking I've loosened it but knackered the rubber condom seal thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quit Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 stupid subaru calipers!! yep i changed my front discs and pads few months ago and 6 out of 8 pistons were jammed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 Yeah I had the bottom inside one was absolutely solid bent a spanner pulling it back in. Worked it a few times and some WD40 and a bit of copper grease fine at the minute. But because it had snagged the rubber I know it will jam open again before long :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quit Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 i put mine under a bit of heat, packed it full of this grease that i forgot the name but its ment to be used on the new Nismo GTR discs think ive warped the discs already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 i put mine under a bit of heat, packed it full of this grease that i forgot the name but its ment to be used on the new Nismo GTR discs think ive warped the discs already Yep that's my worry at the minute I only replaced them about 2 months ago :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quit Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 i stupidly only used 4.1 fluid, did a track day and it boiled over !! need to chuck 5.1 in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 i stupidly only used 4.1 fluid, did a track day and it boiled over !! yup that would do it :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitman Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 copper grease and rubber seals, good luck :o please, use the special red grease on your caliper moving parts getting in contact with the rubber seals, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 The seal was already !Removed! so was just to keep me on the road until the refurbished calipers get here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitman Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 all good Gambit :) just a little warning as copper grease eats the rubber seals over time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 No problem be handy for future reference I did just read my comment back and did sound a bit harsh so apologies for that :) I could have worded that better :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dino Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 ok, I used silicon grease instead and that's worked ok. Now to hope the front pads don't stick again. Recon I'm going to have to drive it hard and see what happens under heavy break loading. Agree, I don't like copper grease cos it goes solid during winter and the grit and dirt that gets into it then makes it sticky like glue. It does seem to be a problem on these higher powered Impreza cars I was reading elsewhere. The WRX manual (not STI) recommends using DOT 4 too but a seized calliper boils DOT 4 easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 It will come back again mate believe me I've had it now on both cars. Once they start to stick it always comes back no matter how much grease or type it's a temporary fix or wait till it starts and keep freeing it, and rinse and repeat. It might last a few months if you're lucky. But it will always be slower than the rest to engage correctly like the others that are free. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitman Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 http://redrubbergrease.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 I'd heard about the pistons seizing in the 4 pots as I'd done some research before upgrading my old uk's 2 pot front calipers . So I bought a cheap seized set to refurb with stainless steel pistons and new seal kit to hopefully cure the seizing issue . when I stripped them down (proir to sand blasting) I noticed that the pistons were moving freely . it was the fact that a rattle plate was missing and the pad had jammed on the dry pad retaining pin causing uneven wear on the previous cars disc's (so I bought new rattle plates and pad pins as well) If attempting the seal change yourself just make sure there's no rust marks on the pistons or piston walls , you can lightly emery cloth them out if so . Use loads of brake cleaner and make sure everything uber clean on assembly and you'll be fine ,fella I use copper slip on most bolts and moving parts without issue but I don't smear anything on gators or seals, cos as said above , they're designed to keep dust away My cars are constantly being pulled apart so I've probably kept copperslip and autosol afloat during the last recession [emoji4] Failing that buy some pre helicoiled brembos [emoji6] 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitman Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 yep, yep; http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-caliper-failure-repair-with-rebuild-kit.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.