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New Member - Tiverton Devon


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Since passing my driving test 15 years ago, I always dreamed of having a Scooby - Now I do.

 

Recently purchased a 1995 Impreza WRX (JDM) from eBay (approx 80k to 90k). Was advertised as a STI but on closer inspection, I dont believe it is. But even still, I decided to have it. Dark blue MIca.

 

Took it to be checked at specialists for a VERY thorough check and needs a little work:

 

Rear struts

Drop links (all round)

Rear discs and pads

Fuel filler neck

Rocker gaskets

Radiator

Crank Seal and Oil separator plate

Oxygen Sensor

 

But apart from that... Im happy! :D

 

I was advised to sell it and give the problems to someone else to sort out. But they did say the body is very good... so I decided to save her myself! lol Guess what my next weekends will be spent doing!! lol Any advice on any of these tasks would be appreciated :rolleyes:

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Hi mate welcome,

Looks like usual common issues you have to be honest I'd the Shell is good then the issues aren't a massive concern, i'd look at getting uprated droplinks as the oem spec plastic ones are rubbish and I'd pay someone to do the rocker covers as it's a right ball ache check out www.importcarparts.co.uk you'll be able to get just about everything from them and they won't pull your pants down

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Hi Scrappy Doo!

 

The specialist said to get rid of it, because they buy and install approved parts only. In your case that would easily cost over £1000.

 

But! Phone some scrapyard or if there is one close, just pop in and try to find a radiator, a fuel filler neck, rear struts and an oxygen sensor too (for this you can take your one as a sample, just to make sure you don't have to go back)! Even scrappies have to give you 30-90 days warranty for some bits by law (I know I work for one...) and you're going to install them, so there is no labour cost. You already saved loads! Some bits come without warranty (e.g panels and plastics) but you don't need those.

 

Everything else has to be new, especially brake bits. You can go crazy with these, but unless you want an overall upgrade I would say stick to the standard ones and buy a reasonable kit for the rear until next time.

I agree with stants on the rocker gaskets and the droplinks, but you can do anything as long as you have patience and you're mechanical minded.

 

The most challenging will be the crank seal. You didn't state which end you need, so here is some guide:

 

 

Timing end:

 

You will have to have some idea about the state of the timing belt's condition. The reason is that you will have to take it off, since it is in the way if you need a crank seal replaced.

In my personal opinion, the timing belt you can't prove the age of - no matter how new it looks - MUST be replaced! Put it back ONLY, if you know it didn't run more than 5-10k miles and you put an arrow on it marking the direction it was running!

 

If there is no proof of age, feathered, running slightly off the pulleys, cut, got strange marks on OR you've forgot to put the arrow on it before taking off BIN IT and buy another one! You also need a whole cambelt kit if there is no info about the belt. It will be pricey, but you don't want to lose an engine after all the spendings/labour, just because one of the guide pulleys/tensioner OR the water pump gave up. Most kits don't include the water pump, so go for it and buy one of that too!

 

So, in this case you're likely to spend on the crank seal, the cambelt kit, the water pump, the silicone gasket (in case the water pump doesn't have it's own gasket), and engine coolant. Worth the money if you like you Scooby if you ask me.

 

 

Gearbox end:

 

:D tricky with both manual or automatic if you don't have experience, but you can get to the seal without risking vital engine components going wrong. Just take the propshaft off and don't forget one thing. Apart from the bellhousing bolts, Scoobies have a long thick metal pin stuck through the bellhousing, protected by a rubber plug on the right as you're leaning over the engine bay. It holds the engine and the gearbox together. It has an M5 thread cut in the middle, so an about 100mm long bolt with the same thread and a pair of pliers will do the trick. Once the pin is halfway out, drive the bolt out so you have enough room left.

 

 

Getting late, so I'll drop it here. Any other help needed just ask. I'm busy this week, but will find time.

 

Cheerio

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Thanks for the input.

 

Yes the garage wanted £2.5 - £3k to do the lot (including rolling road tune). I have bought all the parts new for about £650 (not including oxygen sensor as I have yet to get underneath to see which one it is).

 

All I may have the garage do is the REAR crank seal and oil separator and the rocker cover gaskets for which they quoted about 6 hours (£300 - £400). So I may have saved myself nearly £2k. which I can then spend on improving the car! :D

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Hi n welcome

Glad to hear another early classic being saved [emoji106]

Makes sense to let the garage do the rockers while they're doing the crank seal n oil separator plate . maybe get them to chuck some plugs in as well (cos they're quite fiddly too)

Bear in mind they'll have to remove the clutch and it wouldn't cost anything for them to fit a new one when they put it back together [emoji6]

There's a list of model codes on here somewhere, check the code plate on the front strut tower to know for sure what model you have

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Yes thats where i took it to get all checked over. They are really good and really thorough! And it gave me a starting point. But i just couldnt justify paying them £2500 to do everything. Ill do everything myself, except the rockers and crank seal and then get them to rolling road and map it. They were very helpful though!

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