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Please help i'm at whits end...


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hi all further to my previous post i have run the manual code reading and it threw up 22,23 &24 now the problem i am having is lumpy idle which occasionally results in the engine completely cutting out

i have replaced the MAF sensor and that did nothing i was told by a mechanic mate of my who is really into subaru's that he doubt's it's the knock sensor as in all the years he has owned subaru's he has never had to replace one not even on customers cars i've reset the code's in the hopes that maybe the problem was that the "stored" codes were causing the issue but it's not made a single bit of difference so i thought i'd check for codes again in case it gave me more of an incite into what the problem was but it's not throwing up ANY codes anymore so have no idea what the hell the problem could be any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance for any help/advice you can offer

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I'd have a guess that it's the IAC code 24 that's making it stall. might just need cleaning mate :) 

 

 

1 Engine Speed Signal Circuit

11 Crankshaft Position Sensor

12 Starter Signal

13 Camshaft Position Sensor

14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)

15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)

16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)

17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX)

18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX)

19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX)

21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

22 Knock Sensor

23 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit

24 Idle Control System Malfunction

24 ISC Valve (Stick)

24 Open/Short in ISC Valve Circuit

26 Intake Air Temperature Sensor

27 ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit

28 Knock Sensor #2

29 Crankshaft Position Sensor 2

31 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit

32 A/F Sensor #1 System

32 A/F Sensor #2 System

32 Oxygen Sensor

33 Vehicle Speed Sensor

35 CPC System

36 Turbine Speed Signal

37 Rear O2 Sensor Circuit / A/F Sensor Circuit Malfunction

38 Torque Control Signal #1

38 Torque Control Signal #2

38 Torque Control Signal System

38 Torque Permission Signal

39 Traction Control System

41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control

42 Idle Switch

43 Accelerator Pedal Switch

44 Turbocharging Pressure Control Signal

45 Pressure Sensor

46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit

47 Fuel Injector

48 Lean Burn System

49 CO Resistor

51 Neutral Position Switch

52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy)

53 Antenna

53 Anti-Quick Operation Mode

53 Communication Error (Time Over)

53 EGI Control Module EEPROM

53 IMM Circuit Failure (Except Antenna Circuit)

53 IMM Control Module EEPROM

53 Key Communication Failure

53 Reference Code Incompatibility

53 Use of Unregistered Key

54 Air Intake System

55 EGR Valve Lift Sensor

56 EGR System

57 Canister Control System

58 Air Control System

61 Air Suction Control Solenoid Valve

62 Exhaust Manifold Valve Negative Pressure Control Solenoid

64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 1

64 Relief Valve Control Solenoid Valve 2

65 Differential Pressure Sensor

66 Twin Turbocharger System(H)

66 Twin Turbocharger System(S)

66 Twin Turbocharger System(T)

66 Two Stage Twin Turbocharger System

67 Exhaust Manifold Valve Positive Pressure Control Solenoid

68 Turbocharging Pressure Control Output Signal #2

71 Shift Solenoid Valve

72 Shift Solenoid #2 Circuit

73 Low Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit

74 Brake Clutch Timing Solenoid Circuit Malfunction

75 Line Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit

76 Brake Clutch Pressure Duty Solenoid Circuit Malfunction

77 Lock-Up Duty Solenoid Circuit

78 Tiptronic Solenoid System

79 Transfer Clutch Duty Solenoid Circuit

81 Torque Up Control Valve

85 Charger System Circuit Malfunction

86 CAN (Communication System)

87 Variable Induction Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction

88 Fuel Pump Circuit Malfunction

89 VVT Systems (L)

89 VVT Systems ®

91 TCS Relief Valve

92 Electrical Generation Control Signal Circuit Malfunction

93 Vehicle Speed Sensor #1 Circuit

94 Lateral G Sensor Signal Circuit Malfunction

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Have you tried Unplugging and checking for corrosion on the big grey plugs at either end of the engine loom , same with the engine to inlet and bodywork earths .

Do you not know anyone local with a compatible scoob that you can switch a few bits over to try and eliminate the issue .

Not wanting to contradict your pal but I have known at least 3 knock sensor failures admittedly they've all been newage

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He did suggest unplugging the loom plugs and checking for corrosion I'm gonna give that a go tomorrow after checking to see if it's thrown up anymore codes after clearing them my mate said if I need a knock sensor to try then he has loads spare.

As for knowing anyone with another Scooby that's compatible unfortunately I don't as I've got the "crossover" model (from classic to new age) so most people I know either has the classic or new age not the crossover :(

Thanks all for your help and advice I will check for codes vacuum leaks and the loom plugs and let you all know :)

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i will try looking at the grey loom plugs tomorrow when I've got the washer bottle out to try and clean up the spark plugs. I also wanted to ask what is the best way to test for vacuum leaks as i have no idea where to start as this is my first turbo (that's not either a shogun or Peugeot diesel) and don't really want to start pulling pipes off to check each one separately i have seen a few video's on YouTube of "smoke testing" and one for using soapy water as-well as a guy use carb cleaner but he said that it could result in an engine fire so don't really want to take my chances in all honesty so any advice and if possible pics/video would be great help as i'm a learner by watching and doing rather than reading due to having dyslexia

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thought i'd share this coz i've tried taking the vacuum hoses off and checking them for splits etc and have cleaned all 4 of my spark plug with electrical contact cleaner not yet check the loom plugs but wanted to share a video of the idle when i was changing over from the forge DV to the recirc i had the DV connected to the TMIC and the recirc connected to the smaller vacuum hose (still had the bigger hose capped and the car ran fine so not too sure if that points anyone else away from the MAF since i've replaced it already or wether it's still pointing towards an intake problem of some kind also as i change gear you can hear a pop which is also pointing me towards either vacuum leak or dodgy spark plugs (which none looked particularly bad) 

 

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When trying to locate air leaks use soapy water after the turbo as the positive pressure will cause bubbles where it leaks . Before the turbo (air filter to turbo) you can try spraying a bit of carb or brake cleaner if it's sucking in air through a leak the idle will rise when you spray in that area due to it sucking in the cleaner .

Don't go crazy with the carb or brake cleaner as its flamable (hence the idle change if its leaking) especially near the turbo outlet or "hotside "

It does seem like its a issue with the dv have you tried to refit the recirc and remove the dv all together ?

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As long as the recirc fits the tmic and seals up ok maybe try using it as a vta by leaving the bung in the oe recirc to inlet pipe (so the recirc then vta instead of dumping the air into the intake pipe) and connecting the vac line .

If it runs /drives ok that would indicate that the aftermarket vta dumpvalve isn't sealing and letting in extra unmeatered air causing the idle issues .

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I'm currently still using the recirc valve with the bung still in the "bigger" pipe as I put it on and was still the same so figured I'd just leave it on and try and eliminate the problem in case the DV was an adding factor to the problem

I am however starting to think that I'm gonna need new spark plugs ASAP as my idle (with maf connected) is at around 100rpm (no not a typo

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it's kind of "judders" when i'm accelerating almost like it's hesitating to allow boost or something then all of a sudden it just hits boost full pelt and throws you back in the seat but only when the MAF sensor is plugged in otherwise there is no boost allowed at all hardly due to limp mode/fuel cut

 

also it's burning ALOT more fuel now too (min £10 per day with not many miles for it)

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Shame you're not closer as I've got a few spares kicking around and we could have tried to eliminate it (plugs , leads , coil pack ,maff , lambda ect )

Try unplugging 1 spark plug lead from the coil pack end then starting it up to see if it's better or worse if worse turn off and plug it back in. Repeat this with each cylinder turning it off before each unplug (unless you want a hi amp shock) to see if it's misfiring on a individual cylinder

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