moxxie Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 I posted a photo of the ecu without a case it is standard if I haven't I apologise I thought I had but it is a standard jecs item Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidgy Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 cant see a pic mate? but for the mods def needs mapping so expect thats your problem. I would advise against driving it till its sorted, or at the very least keep it off boost and under 3k rpm. Can do catastrofic damage to your engine if maps wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Yea but I've phoned a few subaru specialist they rekon the maps not too important atm they think it's the MAF Just to clarify the only real mods are 3" turbo back FMIC Avcr The rest is swallox unfortunately the guy must be the biggest lier that has ever walked the earth. . . Today I've got new plugs that I'm gapping to .65 I've cleaned the maf and just letting it dry Maybe even put in my new fuel pump I'll see if that makes a difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidgy Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 If its nto mapped for the front moutn and decat it will cause problems. Could be the maf but i suspect more to it than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 I rekon were found the problem 3 out of the 4 coil are bust either cracked or bits missing What's my best option now then New coilpacks or the coilpacks convertion The working one had this on Cheers guys I feel were getting closer to fixing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Definitely need new coilpacks then lol Cheapest option Buy some second hand coilpacks from a reputable breaker £20 ish (good for 330 hp ish) or Newage coilpack with pigtails about £100 and half a day with a soldiering iron but they'll run 600hp + Will admit i Wouldn't have thought a misfire would cause fuel cut and low peak boost just a intermittent miss at high revs on boost and sometimes a lumpy idle Imo fuel cut is more likely to be caused by a combination of the low power map (probably made for the lower profile cams and smaller turbo ) and the decat and fmic, that are throwing the air in and gas out of the map parameters. As tidgy said ,don't cain it about on boost to much untill it's running right, cos if it runs lean it will go bang bud [emoji6] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Ok cheers guys One problem tho the cut only happens when it's WOT The car is sorn now till I can get it working properly but got acess to my dad's boost bus (Sri t zafira) :) Ok so Savage, do you mean 100 each for the new age coils? If not I'll go for that I belive the jdm sti did not come with a cat? And I really don't understand why a bigger exhaust will cause any problems at all its just somewere for the gasses to go But maybe it's worth checking the O2? I'm trying to find a standard intercooler and hoses just to fuel out this problem I'm going fishing tomorrow to have a rest from it lol Ok to recap Fuel cut problem possibilities : Fmic and exhaust not accounted for in the map. Now looking for an original IC Coil packs are shot. getting new coilpacks and changed the plugs Fuel pump shot. Fitting my walbro soon Maf shot Cleaned and now drying Ecu shot Try a new ecu Loom shot Well. . . Low boost (0.6) problem Actuator stuck It's now freed but it's hard to move still Avcr not working. Try an MBC turbo broke. Well. . . Any more ideas guys? Sorry fixed language :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Avcr is really just for monitoring stuff so I wouldn't have thought it would cause to many running issues. Think I paid £80 posted for all 4 newage coil packs and the "pig tails" (the part of the newage engine loom with the coil pack plugs on ) needed for the conversion . There's a few pics and a link on my build thread showing how to convert em . A decat and free flowing exhaust stops back pressure which means the boost control system has to work much harder to stop the turbo spinning to much and causing over boost . Boosting over the maps parameters can cause fuel cut if the maps boost target is exceeded. or it can mean that the turbo pushes to much air in for the maps fueling causing it to lean off and melt stuff or the ecu can chuck in to much fuel to compensate causing over fuelling which drowns the power and can cause bore wash . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Double posting tapatalk lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 Ok sweet I get that :) BUT I don't think it's boost related as I can NOT boost past 0.6 bar I think this is my secondary problem :) I think that a sensor is broke somewere possibly the maf? I don't think the coil packs are my main problems either all tho I have i have a working standard set as it was my cheapest option for now From my research last night this is quite a common problem on subarus and is usually something to do with fuel grade and / or fuel delivery? I went fishing today so I'm not working on the car and I'm busy tomorrow with family. Is there anything you guys can suggest if I get time to do them tomorrow? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 I tested the maf today with a multi meter and it seems to to reading but unsure as to how well My problem is now worse as it's now cutting at a lower rpm abd the ONLY 3 things that have changed is: 1. Cleaned maf correctly with electrical contact spray and alowed to dry for a day 2. Changed new spark plugs to the correct gap and plug 3. Coilpacks were inspected and literally fell to pieces in my hand Because of my problem getting worse and my coilpacks also I doubt this is a coincidence And will report back when I have coilpacks fitted Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Easy way to see how the maf is condition wise is to run the car then Unplug it if it stalls straight away then it's usually fine, if it keeps running then it's **** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Haha yea it stalls :) but if it was broke then it wouldn't start either [emoji14] But I'm VERY sure it's the coilpacks I just want that full chat boxer noise haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Ok so I've installed new coil packs and a new maf and I still have the same problem :( Ive had the dash out and put a new CEL bulb in and I get code 44 Wich is the code for the oem boost selonoid malfunction abd it's obv it's been removed any way I can bridge the plug for now? Can this really cause a fuel cut I guess it could. . . and my best bet is to fix that fault code 1st. Just hope I'm not chasing my own tail and wasting money on it Cheers again guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 The boost solenoid is missing or been bypassed? Just shocked to hear it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 It's non existence I belive. . . it's running an avcr wich I guess does the same job but without the stock one being there I guys the ecu has no clue of what's happening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Here's a few pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 You could try by passing the boost control system all together and temporarily running "actuated boost"(about 0.5 bar) just see if it stops the "cut" or miss your getting You do this by running a vac line directly from actuator to turbo outlet and pluging the vac lines you disconnected If it improves maybe try to put the boost vac lines back to standard by picking up a 3 port boost solenoid (about £30) and re fit the standard map sensor and air density sensor (on that bracket) As maybe the ecu is confused cos it doesn't have control over the boost the avcr has instead but not ever owning a avcr i don't know much about them tbh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I have the bracket with the sensors except the 3 port. Let me know if you need them. I'll dig it out and upload a pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Yes please scooby ghost but the avcr is turned off atm so actuator pressure is all I'm running atm but I will try it just in case Can an O2 sensor cause this kinda problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 back. front. Bought the 3 port from a forum member and he sent the whole bracket [emoji4] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Here's a couple of pics of the v3 set up I hacked the plugs of the cars loom in case I had to wire in a custom bit at a later date There's a few differences in the versions but it shows how to plumb the vac lines from the map sensor to the air density sensor (bit with the burgendy "cap") and then to inlet manifold The 3 port should be Top port to turbo outlet Middle port to actuator Bottom port to intake pipe ,which is the small bore take off (blanked with a bit of blue vac line with a bolt in it) on the shiny turbo intake pipe your holding in a earlier pic . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moxxie Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Sorry guys but I've sold it today I got a good offer and took my losses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Shame but sometimes it's for the best bud ,hopefully it will get fixed rather than broke for bits and hasn't put you off scoobs to much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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